Classic Central locking

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MadManish

Member
Posts
87
Location
Downham Market, Norfolk
So I took the plunge and got a 1992 classic 200 tdi manual to replace the 90. Its like a Royce in comparison!!. Now there is a little list (just loads of little things) and the one that I would like to sort out first is the central locking.
I did find the fuse under the passenger seat which was blown. I replaced it and hey presto the leccy door mirrors started working (well sort of). But no central locking not a thing!!
Any pointers would be very helpful and appreciated.
 
Is it remote or manual central locking? I’ll assume it’s remote and u know how the central locking components work, so with your wiring diagram start checking the voltage to and from the ECU and it’s functioning ok with the fob, and then onwards to the master actuator in the drivers door, the other doors have slave actuators so get the drivers door working the others ‘should’ follow.
 
Is it remote or manual central locking? I’ll assume it’s remote and u know how the central locking components work, so with your wiring diagram start checking the voltage to and from the ECU and it’s functioning ok with the fob, and then onwards to the master actuator in the drivers door, the other doors have slave actuators so get the drivers door working the others ‘should’ follow.

Mate its manual locking. Will it still have an ecu??
 
Mate its manual locking. Will it still have an ecu??
No not necessarily if it’s the basic central locking system, the drivers actuator controls the switching for locking or unlocking.
So if fully functional and starting with all the doors locked, when the key is turned in the drivers door lock to unlock that door will unlock mechanically and the remaining door electrically via the slaves, switched by the master actuator.

Turning the door key in the lock also move the master actuator, if this is not happening or the 12v supply to it is missing then the result is no central locking unlocking.

You will have to remove the door card on the drivers door, locate the actuator and move the armature in or out by hand that may lock or unlock the doors if it does then a slight of the actuator is required, slacken
the square mounting plate to do that.
If nothing happens the the power feed is missing or the micro switch within the actuator is faulty, if so replace the actuator. The RRc Haynes manual will give u the wiring colours at the actuators.

That’s about it :)
 
No not necessarily if it’s the basic central locking system, the drivers actuator controls the switching for locking or unlocking.
So if fully functional and starting with all the doors locked, when the key is turned in the drivers door lock to unlock that door will unlock mechanically and the remaining door electrically via the slaves, switched by the master actuator.

Turning the door key in the lock also move the master actuator, if this is not happening or the 12v supply to it is missing then the result is no central locking unlocking.

You will have to remove the door card on the drivers door, locate the actuator and move the armature in or out by hand that may lock or unlock the doors if it does then a slight of the actuator is required, slacken
the square mounting plate to do that.
If nothing happens the the power feed is missing or the micro switch within the actuator is faulty, if so replace the actuator. The RRc Haynes manual will give u the wiring colours at the actuators.

That’s about it :)


Nice one mate I think its the actuator in that case as I had the card off yesterday and manually moved it but nothing happening. I guess I better check for 12v first
 
So I have 12v on the connector going to the door lock but nothing on the connection to the actuator. Im guess in the actuator is nothing more that a big switch. Oh and its the 5 wire one
 
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So I have 12v on the connector going to the door lock but nothing on the connection to the actuator. Im guess in the actuator is nothing more that a big switch. Oh and its the 5 wire one
Yes it’s just a switch but not that big, it’s micro. :)
I don’t have acces to my diagrams the moment... but two wires go to the slave actuators the “switch” changes the polarity of the two wires so the slaves have a lock/unlock action, two wires are 12+ 0- and the fifth wire is the signal wire from the remote ECU, if that function is fitted, which I’m surprised it’s not fitted to yoru vehicle, as its 5years younger than the 87MY RR I owned, that had a 4wire master actuator, which I changed when I fitted an alarm system with a remote fob to enable, all that was required then to get remote central locking was to change the actuator to a 5wire plus install an additional fifth wire and Ha-Ho I had remote central locking, my first car to have this.:cool:
 
Yes it’s just a switch but not that big, it’s micro. :)
I don’t have acces to my diagrams the moment... but two wires go to the slave actuators the “switch” changes the polarity of the two wires so the slaves have a lock/unlock action, two wires are 12+ 0- and the fifth wire is the signal wire from the remote ECU, if that function is fitted, which I’m surprised it’s not fitted to yoru vehicle, as its 5years younger than the 87MY RR I owned, that had a 4wire master actuator, which I changed when I fitted an alarm system with a remote fob to enable, all that was required then to get remote central locking was to change the actuator to a 5wire plus install an additional fifth wire and Ha-Ho I had remote central locking, my first car to have this.:cool:
So getting no voltage at the actuator is pointing at something else based on what you have just said??
 
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