Central locking

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You can fit a universal set (I haven't done it but there are videos on YT).
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Yes easy peasy. link the central locking (Universal as stated) module to your alarm so it locks unlocks with the alarm
 
I did it like this in my TD5 - don't know if you have the same alarm type (10AS) in yours. I wasn't easy, but has work for a good few years now.
It's in an earlier post with the photos of all of the bits required.
 
SUCCESSFULLY DONE! - using the wisdom of this site I managed to modify the 10AS Alarm box to give CDL output, install Hawk alarm system, and get both operating on the LR key fob. At risk of repetition it went like this:

1. Install all Hawk actuators - quite straightforward although I broke a few door latch knob surrounds when removing the door cards - and of course the door card press studs

2. Route all wires back somewhere near the fuse box and check it all works when attached to the Hawk wireless box

3. Removed AS10 box - as someone pointed out they do seem to have built the Defender (2002) around it, but by removing only the gauge panel and Speaker and using long flexible screwdrivers I got it out.

4. Open up the AS10 (serial number ending 70) and there are blank spaces for the missing CDL transistor and relay

5. Purchase these off ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152336116619?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT - excellent kit for just £7.99

View attachment 115938

6. Melt solder off the PCBs at indicated locations (good instructions with kit) - position transistor and relay and solder on with fine tip iron

7. Purchase green plug for 10AS http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151466538550?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT - excellent delivery again

View attachment 115937

8. With some half decent 2 core cable fit pins from purchased plug and slide into the back of existing plug (PINS 2 & 3) till they click into place. Took a few goes to get it right and I got through a few pins in the process trying - you may be able to source just pins rather than wasting the plug but I would not know what to ask for so took no chances.

9. Route the 2 core cable to where the other CDL cables are

10. Now here's the thing. I originally thought I'd use these wires to trigger the Hawk alarm system on the 2 external wires provided. I read a lot of stuff about positive and negative pulses and the need to swap these over using 2 additional relays etc. which was a bit beyond me (I tried connecting them directly but the CDL just opened and closed repeatedly). I was finding it hard to accommodate the Hawk CDL box anyway - it is too big to hide behind the fuse box panel. The simplest thing to do as it turns out is to throw away the Hawk box - collect together all of the wires from the CDL actuators and connect them directly to your new wires - the AS10S box will power everything that needs powering when you press the alarm buttons. Result is much less wire to hide, throw away the Hawk box, and the throw away the Hawk fobs (which we a bit sticky). Everything works a treat. The Hawk system was so cheap to buy I don't mind the waste.

11. DOWNSIDE - the only downside is that you do not have a master actuator on the drivers door. No biggy for me - I believe that this could be achieved using one of the 3 remaining wires of the drivers door actuator but I was happy with this solution. I now get out of the car - press the alarm - the lights flash - and the doors all lock.
 
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