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Central Locking Kit

Discussion in 'Defender 90 / 110 / 130' started by Ceeej, Feb 18, 2020.

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  1. Ceeej

    Ceeej New Member

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    Can anyone recommend a central locking kit for my Defender?
     
  2. julianf

    julianf Well-Known Member

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    Just helping a friend fit one currently.

    When I buy one for mine, I'll just get one cheap off eBay, as his £30 one looks just the same as the £15 ones on eBay.

    How they are so cheap, I don't know. I'm sure someone will tell me you can open it with a mobile phone ring tone or somthing, but assuming that isn't the case, I think they're all pretty much the same.

    My friends ones loom isn't long enough, so factor in some bullet connectors and some more wire, but, other than that, evreything was included, Inc key blanks for the fancy keys and evreything.
     
  3. lightning

    lightning Well-Known Member

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    That’s amazing for £15 or even £30 when the LR locking motors are more than that each.
     
  4. Jonmlb748

    Jonmlb748 Active Member

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    I bought one several years ago and it was easy to fit and worked fine,. The hardest bit is tucking the wires away tidily, eventually though the very fine wires started to fray and split .
     
  5. Flossie

    Flossie Well-Known Member

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    I've got the cheapy kit on mine, I got and fitted the TD5 rubber frangers so the wiring isn't a bodge.
    It's probably been 15yrs since I fitted it and I've had wire breakages on the driver's door/A post area twice and control box failure twice. Never had a solenoid failure (yet). However, I can't seem to find the control boxes sold separately so end up buying a complete kit but they are so cheap it's no biggy. I now have 8 spare new Solenoids:rolleyes:.and 2 spare looms:D.
     
  6. julianf

    julianf Well-Known Member

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    Frangers?

    Oh, and you can buy the brains on eBay for a tenner delivered...
     
  7. Flossie

    Flossie Well-Known Member

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    The rubber tubes that fit between the A post and the door frame and carry the wiring for TD5 leccy windows etc.
    Got a link to the eBay things?
     
  8. lightning

    lightning Well-Known Member

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    Mines got the factory central locking and the wires still break where they pass between the door and the body.
    I’ve repaired the drivers side twice and finally fitted a new loom section
    (You can buy this part of the wiring harness separately)
     
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  9. julianf

    julianf Well-Known Member

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    Loads on eBay. Search "central locking kit" and arrange by price.

    Eg this one -

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-SECU...108521?hash=item56d1817069:g:hxMAAOSwDnpd-56S

    Crap looking key fobs, but what do you expect for a fiver?

    I've been trying to find the landrover part codes for the door things for my friend.

    Do you still have the list of parts that would be needed? I found the puma ones but they need a square hole. Maybe the td5 are the same, but I couldn't find them to be sure.

    Disco ones are round but look to take up too much space when the door is closed.
     
  10. julianf

    julianf Well-Known Member

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    I'll warn my friend of this. We need to extend the wires anyway, so I'll suggest he gets some thicker than the originals for the bit that flexes.
     
  11. David Leech

    David Leech Well-Known Member

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  12. potus

    potus Well-Known Member

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    Fitted central locking to a 110 once, bit of a faff and to be honest I don't know why I bothered. I never locked it anyway, besides they could've just jumped in through the back door.
     
  13. Flossie

    Flossie Well-Known Member

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    Hmm...it might have been puma....I just walked into a Landover dealership
    Hmm....I'm doubting myself now, but in my defense it was a long time ago. I just walked into a landy dealership and looked at a brand new defender then got the spares guy there to order me 4 (110sw).
    It was around 2005 maybe? So was probably a puma? Don't know when they came out.
    They do need square holes cutting which is not as bad to do as I thought. Drilled a round hole then used a square file to square it off.
    I can measure things for you to save you working it out no problem. I also fitted courtesy switches in the A and B pullers at the same time, they were off the same defender I think. Had to knock up some brackets to work the switches which fix to the doors themselves to press the switch plungers.
     
  14. mick 1986

    mick 1986 Well-Known Member

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    If your going to cut and extend the wiring loom anyway, then try to get some “high flex” wire and fit that in the section that passes from the bulkhead to the door. It will last longer than “standard” wiring will.
     
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  15. julianf

    julianf Well-Known Member

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    I thought of trying standard 240v appliance cable (appliance, not T+E!) for the gap. Copper is copper, and appliance cable is a) high cross sectional area, and, more importantly, b) loads and loads of strands.

    On my friends kit, the motors just have short tails, with bullets on the ends. The loom as longer (but not long enough) wires, with bullets. So no cutting, and, because there will always be a joint in the door (again the motors only have short tails) whatever the "added" cable is, will be the one that bridges the hinge gap - so its just making the choice there.
     
  16. julianf

    julianf Well-Known Member

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    For anyone else doing these -

    The kits come with a strip of metal, a bit like ridged builders strapping, to mount the motor on, but, we thought that it would conflict with the door card?

    So mounted the motor on the metal inner "card" thing of the door. If youre careful with position and angle, it all seems to work.
     
  17. mick 1986

    mick 1986 Well-Known Member

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    Appliance cable is called “flex”, and despite its name, isn’t designed to be flexible in an application like this. Standard thinwall would be better suited than flex. Flex may have more strands in certain CSA, compared with standard thinwall, but that doesn’t mean it’s better. Saying “copper is copper” is miles off the mark too. If that’s the case, use welding wire as it has more copper.
     
  18. Flossie

    Flossie Well-Known Member

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    That's what I did.
    I also went a bit fancy and made new (no idea what you would call them but they are nearly 90° plastic things fitted to the actual lock) things. Again, it was too long ago to remember the details but the solenoid rod now works directly on the latch rather than clamping it to the existing rods. The solenoid 'throw' was just too much using this method and the plastic angle used to break after a good while, I made new ones out of steel plate, making them slightly longer to suit the throw.
    No issues now.
    I've also got no lock barrels on any of the 4 side doors which freed up some room to do what I did, not sure it would be possible with that stuff in the way.
    Also got leccy windows. I think one of the reasons why I got wire breakages ,apart from the fact the driver's door is used most, is that the master solenoid is in that door and has 4? Wires, the other slaves only have 2? And the electric window wiring also running through that one franger, it's a bit tight in there and I suspect the cables have no 'give' so they bend rather than slide about if you get my drift?
    Appliance multicore is a thought for sure, I would need 2 lengths of 3 core stuffing up there I think or one length of 6/7 core which is available somewhere I'm sure.
    Edit- my reply is to Julian post, forgot to quote it.:oops:
     
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  19. julianf

    julianf Well-Known Member

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    Can you tell me what the difference is between the copper in your advised solution and the copper in my proposed solution?

    I'd have thought they are pretty damn similar, but sort of data sheet that says otherwise, I'll be all ears (well, eyes, I guess...: )
     
  20. mick 1986

    mick 1986 Well-Known Member

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    Im not running round finding, and attaching data sheets for you. If you want to fit “flex” in a situation it’s not designed, be my guest. I’m only offering advice based on my experience.

    Edit: I have found some reading material for you, reference the use of “flex”.

    I have used “Nexans round flex” in 1.5mm2 3 core, as that is widely available from the likes of screwfix.

    datasheet here.
    https://www.nexans.co.uk/eservice/U...O5VV_F_3183_Y_3_core_x_1_5mm.html#description

    if you read through the spec sheets and tech sheets, it states the conductor is made up of “class 5 copper”. It also states the minimum bend radius is 6xd, where d is the diameter of the overall flex. d = 8.05 for 3 core 1.5mm, so that’s 48mm radius minimum bend. Instantly not suitable for use in the door to bulkhead.

    You can find the info on “automotive” grades and make your own comparisons, or get on with using flex and let us know how long it takes to break and you have to replace it.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2020
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