Central locking, interior light and door switches

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cappers

cappers

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I have a Hawk remote central locking kit and alarm which I am getting around to installing.

One function is alarm sensing and interior light operation via door switches.

My 1986 Ninety doesn't have door switches and the interior light switch is the older 2 way on/instrument panel not the 3 way on/off/door.

I haven't checked the wiring yet to either the switch or the light but I assume there's a purple live and black earth there.

Is it possible to use a newer 3 way switch and door switches and wire into the switch or is additional wiring needed?

Thanks in advance.
 
On second thoughts decided not to bother; managed for years without auto lighting and it should come on for a few seconds when unlocked if I splice a wire into the switch.
 
You'd of had to drill holes in the A pillars to take the switches and feed a live wire down inside the pillars. No idea where those live wires would have to go back to :rolleyes:
 
Had a look at the wring to the light switch in the lower panel and it has 2x purple wires to the pin1, a purple/white to 2, 2x red/white to 3 and 2x red to 4:
img_2117-jpg.252961

From what I can work out,
pin1 2x purple - live fused feed from the battery,
pin2 1x purple/white - feed to the ceiling light,
pin3 2x red/white - feed to instrument /side/tail lamp
pin4 2x red - fused feed from switch to instrument lights.

Is this correct? The alarm output for the int light (to come on when unlocking) is negative so should that go to the purple white wire? I think the lamp comes on when grounded?
And, if I decide to install a door switch(es), does the -ve door switch wire from the alarm (can use a +ve feed instead) splice into the same purple/white wire, grounding the lamp so switching it on?

Many thanks in advance.
 
Last edited:
Not worth the hassle.
My light is switch fed and grounded to the body so putting a negative feed to it would be fun :eek:
I could wire in a relay to make the negative feed postive.
Can't be bothered to wire in and fit door switches so the light comes on automatically, managed for years without these fripperies. :rolleyes:
Cheers for any advice.
 
Last edited:
No worries! I'm not knowledgeable about electricity either and thought there might be some here who are.
Anyway I know what's going on now and as said will do the basic alarm/CDL install and forget about the whistles and bells.
 
capo said:
No worries! I'm not knowledgeable about electricity either and thought there might be some here who are.
Anyway I know what's going on now and as said will do the basic alarm/CDL install and forget about the whistles and bells.
Click to expand...
Just a thought, I presume you've looked through the two installation instructions to see if there are wiring diagrams that show how the door switches are wired?
 
Yes, it provides for a either a neg or a pos output from the door switch.
But I don't have any door switches and not sure how I'd wire them to the existing lighting circuit let alone integrating it into the alarm/cdl.
I've seen only neg switch layouts where the light is ground switched not pos switched like mine.
 
From the manual:

Pin 3 BLUE WIRE:
Negative Door Input (-). Connect to the Driver door pin switch circuit wire that shows ground (-) when the door is open.
Note: Nearly all cars have negative door input. Consult owner manual for polarity.
Pin 4 GREEN WIRE:
Positive Door Input (+). Connect to the driver door pin switch circuit wire that shows +12v when the door is open.
Note: Consult owner manual for polarity.

I don't have a driver door pin switch and unsure how I'd wire it one to the interior light circuit.
Looked online but everything is on neg door switches.
 
I can get the interior lamp to come on when unlocking if I convert the -ve lamp output to +ve with a relay......
IMG_2119.JPG

But he door switch set up is beyond me at the moment :rolleyes:
 
capo said:
I can get the interior lamp to come on when unlocking if I convert the -ve lamp output to +ve with a relay......
View attachment 237247
But he door switch set up is beyond me at the moment :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
And me!
As far as I know the door switches have a positive feed and are earthed via the A post. I think the door switches were introduced sometime through the 200Tdi model.
 
capo said:
From the manual:

Pin 3 BLUE WIRE:
Negative Door Input (-). Connect to the Driver door pin switch circuit wire that shows ground (-) when the door is open.
Note: Nearly all cars have negative door input. Consult owner manual for polarity.
Pin 4 GREEN WIRE:
Positive Door Input (+). Connect to the driver door pin switch circuit wire that shows +12v when the door is open.
Note: Consult owner manual for polarity.

I don't have a driver door pin switch and unsure how I'd wire it one to the interior light circuit.
Looked online but everything is on neg door switches.
Click to expand...
This might help, it's from the 300Tdi wiring manual.
Interior Lamps.jpg

So, from the fuse box passenger compartment there is a live feed (purple wire) to the interior light. The interior light has a switch beside it which is earthed (black wire) When you move the switch it makes the circuit down through that earth and the light comes on.
In the 300Tdi, with door switches, the interior light switch also has another earth route out of it. It's a purple wire, so you think it's a live feed, but it is just going to earth via your A post when the switch there closes the circuit when the door opens.
I would take your interior light & Switch combo out of the roof lining and inspect it for possible earth connections. It will defo have one, so it can work via the switch at the lamp. It might have another terminal from which you could run a cable to a door switch.
 
@Al2O3 Thanks for your input ;)

Al2O3 said:
from the fuse box passenger compartment there is a live feed (purple wire) to the interior light. The interior light has a switch beside it which is earthed (black wire) When you move the switch it makes the circuit down through that earth and the light comes on.
Click to expand...

Minor problem, my dome light doesn't have an integral switch, it's a +ve feed from the panel switch and earthed via the case to the roof.

Again thanks for your help but I'll probably try the wire that turns the light on when unlocking using a relay to make it +ve and feed that into the wire that powers the light when on.

Door courtesy lights aren't necessary and will involve switches, drilling, wiring etc.

I'm putting this topic to bed, more intellectual curiosity about how it all works than something I'll do now. :rolleyes:
Cheers.
 
capo said:
@Al2O3 Thanks for your input ;)



Minor problem, my dome light doesn't have an integral switch, it's a +ve feed from the panel switch and earthed via the case to the roof.

Again thanks for your help but I'll probably try the wire that turns the light on when unlocking using a relay to make it +ve and feed that into the wire that powers the light when on.

Door courtesy lights aren't necessary and will involve switches, drilling, wiring etc.

I'm putting this topic to bed, more intellectual curiosity about how it all works than something I'll do now. :rolleyes:
Cheers.
Click to expand...
One last thought.
Maybe all you would need to do is buy an interior light for a 300Tdi, they'll be cheap as chips. You can earth it to the roof and run a wire from it to your A post. Now then, when I did my rebuild I bought a galvanised bulkhead. I didn't realise that they supplied me with a 200Tdi one. Not until I'd had it painted anyway :rolleyes: It didn't have holes in the A posts and I didn't want to drill holes in my new galv bulkhead, so I used large lever switches. I'll see if I can find a picture.
 
Can't find a picture of my alternative door switches in my rebuild pictures, but I can take a picture tomorrow.
I'm pretty sure I've got some of the switches left, so if you think the idea is a goer for you I'll post a couple to you. (so long as I can find them in the garage) :rolleyes:
 
@capo
Here is my alternative door switch set up
20210502_112537.jpg

20210502_112528.jpg

They're just araldited on. I've araldited an aluminium pusher to the door too.
I was going to put them in to some sort of enclosure, but never got around to it :rolleyes:
 
20210502_120243.jpg

I've got two spare switches, but the one on the left isn't working. The little push button sticks in. You can pop it out with the tip of a knife, but it sticks in every time :(
You can get the idea though. They've been working for quite a few years without any bother.
 
Many thanks @Al2O3. I'll keep that for reference.
For now I'm going to keep it simple and go one step at a time. Install the CDL on the front doors, then install the basic alarm options such as the ultrasonic sensors, vibration sensor, ignition bypass warning, hazards and maybe int light, but omit the door pins, window winders, boot lock, immobiliser (have my own), and brake light door lock (touch the brakes to lock the doors once moving, like a taxi).
 
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