Central locking and interior lights

Hi. This is my first post!
I love my P38! I've done a lot of work on it, and I find it easy to work on. I've even recently removed the coil spring conversion it had and put the air bags back-I'm a qualified mechanic (old school!), but I'm not fantastic with computers, so was surprised how easy the eas was to unlock!
I'm wondering if anyone might be able to help with some niggling problems I have.
First, the interior courtesy lights don't work. When you open a door, the light comes on dim for a second or two, with a buzzing from behind the lower drivers side dash. It doesn't stay on.
Second is the central locking. The drivers door opens on the key, the rear drivers side opens on the remote fob, but both passenger side doors will only unlock from inside.
I'm just wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction before I take the door panels apart.
Thanks,
Steve

Interior lights, if they try to come on, look for bad earths, corroded connectors. Use RAVE to identify the wiring.
If the locks do not work from the FOB, I would suspect burnt lock motors caused by a dodgy RF receiver. There are other possibilities with the locks.
Check for wet carpet in the drivers footwell.
Put a rough location, there maybe someone close with a Nanocom.
Oh and a proper intro with more details of the car would be the norm before you get savaged.
:welcome2:

After having looked into this forum, I've noticed that a few of the glitches I have, including this courtesy light and central locking problem, sound very similar to peoples problems with BeCM's.
I have a continuous blown fuse message on the dash, but the fuse is fine. Would it be worth getting my BeCM tested?
Thanks, Steve

Stevemilitary110 said:

After having looked into this forum, I've noticed that a few of the glitches I have, including this courtesy light and central locking problem, sound very similar to peoples problems with BeCM's.
I have a continuous blown fuse message on the dash, but the fuse is fine. Would it be worth getting my BeCM tested?
Thanks, Steve

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Worth cleaning the connectors and ensuring the carpets in the footwell is dry. Maybe take the BECM out and dry it out in a warm airing cupboard if the carpets are wet. Needs more investigation really, could be a chaffed wire for example or a bad earth.

:welcome2:and well done for getting rid of the coils :cheer2::cheer2:

tomcat59alan said:

:welcome2:and well done for getting rid of the coils :cheer2::cheer2:

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Too bad it'll now handle like a ship in a storm
But everyone to there own

gfromleeds said:

Too bad it'll now handle like a ship in a storm
But everyone to there own

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Bull****

+1

gfromleeds said:

Too bad it'll now handle like a ship in a storm
But everyone to there own

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You cannot be serious? The handling of a P38 on air is far superior to one on coils.

wammers said:

You cannot be serious? The handling of a P38 on air is far superior to one on coils.

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+1:crazy:

Having a fuse blown message on the dash, although the fuse hasn't blown tell's me there's a problem or failure inside the becm. This may cause the problems you're suffering.
We can test thoroughly, & we test your becm for free. You just pay the postage, or let us repair it for you.

At least my back doesn't hurt as much when driving, compared to when it had coils!

My bad i miss read
I read it as he'd put it on coils
Must have been tired! eather that or ****ed