CCU and other bits

Oh wise ones!

Had my 2000 TD4 freelander for over a year now after i swapped out the petrol xdei i had before.

must say i love it, but its put me through a bit of grief last night.

Part of the clutch went on me as I was moving around the tiny work car park just while i was in the middle of the entrance. To get it to move i did something a bit stupid, i started her in gear with the foot to the floor, she fired and i was able to drive her out of the way stuck in first gear.
I identified the issue as a master clutch cylinder (seals leaking by pedal), no biggy, one on order and will try and fit at the weekend.

The problem i'm stuck on is that the secondary electrics, such as alarm, remote locking, windows, rear wiper, heated seats etc have all packed up.
Bit of a look around the site tells me that this might all be CCU related. (didn't know there was a separate device from the ECU so that was a eye opener.)

My question is, is the CCU likely dead?
I checked most of the fuses in the interior fuse box and they all seem fine.
The fuses in the engine bay box are different from any i have seen before (think they're called midi fuses) and so don't know how to tell if they're blown (unless i can find a multi-meter)

I've order a couple of the midi fuses in case as they are pretty cheap and i may as well keep a couple of different sizes in the tool kit.

Does anyone know if there is a specific fuse for the CCU i need to check (haynes manual a bit confusing on this)

If the CCU is dead, can i replace with one from ebay? do i have to replace anything else if i do such as the immobilizer and or remote key fobs?

thanks in advance for any pointers.

Charlie

Hello,

I'm having a quick look at the circuit diagrams now.. Check fuse 8 in the passenger compartment. Also check link 9 in the engine compartment fusebox. The latter would take a large current to blow it.. if so, something is going on here.

Could you report back here as *anything* could be significant.

You should be able to buy a cheap multimeter from your local diy shop for about a fiver.. Useful to carry..

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes? This will eliminate any of the control electronics being stuck in "Oh s&it!" mode. Just to rule this out.

Any other specific symptoms?? Any thing been changed (anywhere in the car) at all?

Bodge99

Hi Bodge99,

Thanks for the reply, i'll check the fuses tonight when i get in, i'll pick up a multi meter on way home too.
I tried the battery off for about 5 mins, maybe i should try a longer disconnect, i'll leave it over night with it off.

erm, about four weeks ago i finally got round to fitting new bulbs and relay for my driving lamps (The ones that come on with the full beam as an optional extra's).

Could be that i suppose, i'll pull the fuse on that bad boy when i get home to take out of the equation if that's a good idea?

Hello,

Just a few minutes when disconnecting the battery is all you need.

The driving lamps shouldn't be any worry here (If OE).. Are these original fit or 3rd party.. If the latter, where did you take power from?? How (and with what fuse rating) are these fused. Also what wattage bulbs are you using??

If the driving lamps are OE, may I ask why (and how) the originals failed??

I'm just trying to get an accurate overall picture..

Bodge99

hi,
thanks for the response again.

The driving lamps are OE, they were not operational when i bought the car, decided might be useful for winter driving last month so checked the bulbs , one was dead so replaced with like for like, and the relay that was in the additional wiring next to my battery was a bit rusted so i replaced this and the lights came back to life. I think the relay keeps an eye on the full beam circuit so only gives power to the driving lamps on main beam engaging (from what i read that seems right)
Again the relay was like for like.
Midi fuses just turned up so will see if one needs replacing and will update later

thanks for your help so far!

Charlie

Hello,

Yes, I see what you've done here.. sounds absolutely fine..

If link 9 has popped, could you report back here. I'll dig out some more specific info that I've got archived.. it might help.

Any other circuits not working?

Bodge99

Hi all,

I double checked all the internal fuses last night specific attention to fuse eight which I swapped out just in case), they were all fine, swapped one out that looked a bit different but that's just a bit of OCD kicking in.

Visually checked all fuses in the under bonnet fuse box, they all look fine though can't really tell with the midi fuses. swapped out fuse nine as suggested. no joy.
My brothers coming over tonight with a multimeter so will check all the under bonnet fuses.

Decided to leave the battery disconnected and will check when i get home tonight.

I found a thread mentioning the CCU test sequence, though despite various tries was unable to get it to do anything.

I did find that the rear window down button signals some beeps when pressed, not sure if that is significant or not.


My master clutch cylinder came today so will be fitting that at the weekend, though hoping i don't have to purchase a new CCU as i'm still unsure if this requires changing keys/fobs etc.

(Good news is, when going through the fuses realised that i have a Fuel Burning Heater!, will be posting again about this as have dreams of a telestart remote project)

thanks for reading

Charlie

Hello,

Sorry to hear that you still have problems.. I'll be very interested to exactly what you find. It seems very strange that this problem has appeared during a mechanical problem. Certainly electronics can fail at any time, but if the CCU has been popped as opposed to "just" failed then you might have to look slightly more deeply at the wiring integrity.

Do you have access to the relevant circuit diagrams? If not, then just PM me..

After checking the fuses etc. have a look at the power rails and earth points.. if possible, measure any earth resistance "through" the connection. Don't assume any bolted earth connection is sound, just because it looks OK.

Unplug/plug (a few times. I've had surface corrosion problems with connectors) any inline connectors on the respective circuits. Multiple circuit problems indicates something more "towards" the CCU (or before, if power related.)

Check the actual connectors to the CCU. Is/are the plug(s) firmly connected? Any sign of liquid staining? Pins intact? Any signs of chafing/crush damage to the wiring looms?

Has the car been jump started recently?

Fuse failure (especially high rated ones) warrents investigation.

Anything at all... from the CCU tests?

Bodge99.

Hi Bodge99,

Thanks for all the details. I looked through and decided to take the car to a friends house to use his indoor garage.

Went to start but battery was flat, odd i thought.

Anyway, after a jumped start she was fine and i drove the two hour trip.

About have way all my electrics sprang to life!
radio, heated seats, windows etc.
Since then all CCU functions have returned to normal.

I'm at a loss but happy at least.

Discussing with an engineer friend, i suggested that the CCU might switch off if battery power is low? bit of a stab in the dark but seems logical.

thanks again for all your help with this.

(oh and anyone need a CCU unit as i purchased a replacement the morning before it fixed itself - grrr)

Charlie