Jinjah Paul
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Hi all,
New to the forum, and thought I'd kick of with a bit of a mad question. I'm currently looking at building a expedition trailer to go on the back of my 1960 100" hybrid.
The Landy is pretty highly modified and in fairness pretty high off the ground. Between having a 2" body lift, and a 2" suspension lift my trailer doesn't sit flat unless I use a drop adjustable tow hitch with my nato hitch. As we all know these rattle and bang and crash and drive you insane. That coupled with the fact that my hitch spends more of its time in my kitchen than on the Landy at the moment to prevent it becoming someone's midnight spares! So I want to drill, sleeve and weld my rear cross member so I can permanently fit the hitch.
If I centralize it on my rear cross member it'll be about 5" up from where the sankey would like it to be, so I need a plan.
Thinking this end goes, I've got a mk3 sankey with discs etc that the chassis is great and the tub is tired so plan to whip the tub off and make a start on an expedition trailer. I've got a set of hub adapters (bought off eBay with no picture as wheel spacers for £75, but when I got there they are to change down to the 5x120 stud pattern).
I'm wondering if I can buy three 20" Range Rover or discovery wheels that will fit the 5x120 adapters, and then use some unimog 41" tyres which would level the whole thing out, improve the ground clearance of the sankey and make it all work how I want it to.
Question is can I? Can't find anywhere that tells me how unimog tyres compare to rangerover ones with regards to beads and wall thickness. The main problem I could foresee is that if the tyre walls/beads are too thick they may foul where the valve comes inside the wheel, or the bead will be too tall or wide or generally not fit!
Other things I've considered are raising centre of gravity 5" may make it unstable, but I have plans for a baffled water tank within the chassis and a very light weight main body (learned to tig weld aluminum and am wanting a project to practice with partly!) hoping the spacers will give it a 100mm wider track which will hopefully help too! Also think I'll put new bushes in the anti roll bar and a set of new shocks on there to keep it stable.
I know people use the unimog wheels on the 101 forward controls so just hope someone could let me know how the tyres would compare to normal tyres, and I'm always happy to hear of any pitfalls I've not thought of!
Hope that's ok for a first post and if it looks like it's doable I'll post some pics if people are interested once I've cobbled together all the bits I need!
New to the forum, and thought I'd kick of with a bit of a mad question. I'm currently looking at building a expedition trailer to go on the back of my 1960 100" hybrid.
The Landy is pretty highly modified and in fairness pretty high off the ground. Between having a 2" body lift, and a 2" suspension lift my trailer doesn't sit flat unless I use a drop adjustable tow hitch with my nato hitch. As we all know these rattle and bang and crash and drive you insane. That coupled with the fact that my hitch spends more of its time in my kitchen than on the Landy at the moment to prevent it becoming someone's midnight spares! So I want to drill, sleeve and weld my rear cross member so I can permanently fit the hitch.
If I centralize it on my rear cross member it'll be about 5" up from where the sankey would like it to be, so I need a plan.
Thinking this end goes, I've got a mk3 sankey with discs etc that the chassis is great and the tub is tired so plan to whip the tub off and make a start on an expedition trailer. I've got a set of hub adapters (bought off eBay with no picture as wheel spacers for £75, but when I got there they are to change down to the 5x120 stud pattern).
I'm wondering if I can buy three 20" Range Rover or discovery wheels that will fit the 5x120 adapters, and then use some unimog 41" tyres which would level the whole thing out, improve the ground clearance of the sankey and make it all work how I want it to.
Question is can I? Can't find anywhere that tells me how unimog tyres compare to rangerover ones with regards to beads and wall thickness. The main problem I could foresee is that if the tyre walls/beads are too thick they may foul where the valve comes inside the wheel, or the bead will be too tall or wide or generally not fit!
Other things I've considered are raising centre of gravity 5" may make it unstable, but I have plans for a baffled water tank within the chassis and a very light weight main body (learned to tig weld aluminum and am wanting a project to practice with partly!) hoping the spacers will give it a 100mm wider track which will hopefully help too! Also think I'll put new bushes in the anti roll bar and a set of new shocks on there to keep it stable.
I know people use the unimog wheels on the 101 forward controls so just hope someone could let me know how the tyres would compare to normal tyres, and I'm always happy to hear of any pitfalls I've not thought of!
Hope that's ok for a first post and if it looks like it's doable I'll post some pics if people are interested once I've cobbled together all the bits I need!
