Camshaft Sensor Freelander V6

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Tempus Fugit

Well-Known Member
Posts
15,840
Location
Great Britain
As mentioned in the What Have You Done to your Freelander Thread, rather than clutter it up thought it best I start a dedicated one.

I had the camshaft sensor fail on my V6 Freelander a couple of months back, had the code come up and it wouldn't start. Bought a replacement, cheap (I know) and away we went. It failed, no surprise there I suppose, so bought another, slightly more expensive one and away we went. Well that is now playing up. Now I know these things can be a little hit and miss, but before a fork out for a third (OE) one what are the possible causes of the failure apart from poor manufacture?

I've checked the volts from the connector and they are:

1 - 3 12v
1 - 2 7.5v
2 - 3 5v

Compared to my ZT1.8 which is, I believe, the same sensor?

1 - 3 12v
1 - 2 0.5v
2 - 3 11v

Quite a difference don't you think? Is this indicating another cause of the failure?
 
No the difference in voltage between the MEMS (1.8) and S2000 ECU (V6) isn't a sign of a fault. Both ECUs will use different methods to monitor the sensor. You are simply seeing that difference.
What is significant, is the make fitted. I've had cheap sensors fail really quickly too. The only sensors that seem to last any time at all is the OE make. Don't forget that the KV6 in a Freelander runs at very high temperatures. I'm sure this is the reason cheap sensors fail very quickly.
 
No the difference in voltage between the MEMS (1.8) and S2000 ECU (V6) isn't a sign of a fault. Both ECUs will use different methods to monitor the sensor. You are simply seeing that difference.
What is significant, is the make fitted. I've had cheap sensors fail really quickly too. The only sensors that seem to last any time at all is the OE make. Don't forget that the KV6 in a Freelander runs at very high temperatures. I'm sure this is the reason cheap sensors fail very quickly.

That's what I was hoping, even with the replacement it still seemed to be taking a while spinning before it fired.

Thanks for the reply.
 
The KV6 generally needs about a 2 to 3 second crank to fire. This is good as it gives time for the oil pressure to build before it fires.
If you take the V6 fitted to the D3 as an example. The engine in that fires almost instantly, but then runs with the oil light on for 3 or 4 seconds. Those engines suffer bearing failure, so I know which way I prefer an engine to start.
 
Back
Top