Caliper Carriers 2003 FREELANDER

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M

mudinuri

Active Member
Posts
673
Location
New Forest
Booked my F1 in to have new Calipers/Pads etc but the garage rang two days ago to cancel as the mechanic is ill and I can"t get another appointment anywhere until 2nd week in January so I might have to do it myself but being decrepit, that"s Old and in Bad condition, that"s me not the Freelander I"m not sure if I can manage it or not but if I do:- Will I have to fit new Brake Caliper Carriers? I found the Calipers and Seal Kits etc on British Part UK for reasonable prices but the Carriers were more expensive.
I don"t suppose there is anyone in the New Forest area with the right gear who would come and do the job? I"m prepared to pay the going Labour rate.
 
Depends on the problem.
Don't fit seal kits, wate of time and money.
Replace caliper if seized and slide pins if seized.
No need to replace carriers unless damaged which is unlikely.
New pads, copper slip on piston and mating surfaces and loctitie on caliper and guide bolts job done.

Bit too far for me but I'd help otherwise.
 
Cheers Andy.
Happy new year.
Andy will I have to change the Caliper because I"ve been told it"s Binding or is there sometrhing else I can do to stop it Binding?
 
I'm afraid it depends!!

Binding is either the slide pins sticking or the piston stuck. Pins should free up and I have never found the carrier at fault but then again!!!!......
 
Most of the time, it is as @andyfreelandy said, the sliding pins that seize on these "floating" calipers, so you get away with just undoing the two small bolts for the caliper to the slides, which aren't muckle tight and not as rusty as the ones securing the caliper carrier to the hub, then a small bit of cleaning and greasing before reassembling it all. It's not mega hard, and shouldn't be a problem. It's one of those jobs where if you are contemplating doing it, you are probably fit enough to do it, were you saying you were frail / decrepit and contemplating changing the discs, which would require you to remove the carrier, I'd suggest you leave it to your mechanic gets back, but just cleaning the slides¿ - you'll probably manage it.
 
I had the carriers on mine seize on the floating pin. Had to drill the carrier from the other side and then press out the pin on the hydraulic press. Finally broke free at around 4 tons of pressure.
New carriers and floating pins were more that what I wanted to pay for. So I refurbished the parts and rebuilt the brakes with a new seal kit and put it all back together with a generous amount of copper grease on the floating pins. It was a quiet day at work post lockdown but pre new supply of parts so I did have a workshop of equipment at hand.
 
If new calipers are required they are so cheap off ebay and usually so good I will never again try to rebuild them. It's far too easy to damage a seal and if that happens you will end up paying more than the cost of refurbed calipers.
This goes treble for cars with rear disc brakes and a hand brake mechanism.
If cleaning and greasing the sliders fixes it then great but be sure to use red rubber grease as it won't harm the rubber seals.
 
Thanks to everyone for the advice. Can you just clear up which are the Sliding Pins because I can see no reference to them in my Haynes Manual. Am I right these must be the Caliper Guide Pins?
cheers
 
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Sliding pins are shown with rubber boots above. The caliper piston assembly bolts to the ends and the caliper then slides in relation to the carrier.

The pins get stuck and need freeing up and the correct grease used. This grease usually comes with the replacement pins.
 
Unbolt the caliper and it will pull free, still connected by brake pipe.

The sliding pins can then be pulled out. If they are stuck you may need to take the carrier off to free them.
2 bolts hold the caliper to the pins. 2 bolts hold the carrier to the hub.
 
Thanks for all your help and advice Andy,I"ll let you get back to Xmas.
Have a happy and better 2021 and that applies to all the members.
all the best
 
Hi, I've had to replace both my front calipers due to binding as the pistons had partially seized (the floating or sliding pins side of things were fine) so it could be caliper(piston seized) the floating or sliding pin (or both) causing your problem but like most have said it's certainly easier to replace the caliper (if needed) rather than rebuilding it & just buy a sliding pin kit again if needed, although it's probably wise to do the pins as well whilst your there. If you can clamp the rubber brake hose before you disconnect it, then bleeding the caliper afterwards should be straight forward (don't let the system drain down or it's more work to bleed it). I hope it all goes well & as you know there's always advice/help on here if needed. A Happy New Year to you too, stay safe.
 
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