C0932 => C0243 Change wire

Hiya,

Has anyone ever changed one of the wires between the a.m. plugs?
One of them for shift A is dead so would need to change the red one. Unfortunately a guy told me I couldn't change it that easy, so first thought change the whole cable which isn't, now to go with a bypass but would need to change the cable lugs as well then.

Regards
Matthias

Need some more info on what yer doing and to what part of yer Freelander.

Is for TD4 auto. Went to LR for fault code when I had F4 on display. They said shift A would not be working. Measured it first on ATC C0932 up in engine compartment said dead. Then in Jatco and seems fine for resistance, even taken off and measured was fine. I then measured the wires between the two plugs and that one is dead. No reaction at all hence think I would need to change it but how. Tried yesterday to get the lug off the C0932 but stuck in as I would need some special as far as my understanding goes. On C0243 I couldn't open the plug to get the wire off.

I understand now. The fault is where the wires connect to the barrel connector C0243 on the computer side. You could buy a new cable or fix it yourself. I have taken these connector's apart but never opened then up to see inside. I guess the wire has come off the pin or the pins are not gripping correctly. If you look in the photo's below you'll see the connector parts slot together somehow. You may be able to take the connector apart. Failing this you could cut the fauly wire either side on the barrel connectors C0243 and use another piece of wire and some choc block to join them together. If this fixes your problem you could use crimps to secure the wires instead. It's not the best way to do it but if your careful and don't allow the wire to be cut too short so it's pulled by the main harness, then it should be ok.

Thanks for the photos. I think it would in photo 3. The cable could be defect on the connection or wire side. Up or down so I am thinking how to proceed. I thought to buy the cable but I think it would be the whole one right? Couldn't find the parts number to figure out how much it would be and those guys from LR couldn't tell me. Thought to open both plugs and change the lugs incl. the wires but that's not that easy. I have not really a clue how to open C0243 at the moment.

You have the option of (1) replacing the wiring loom, (2) do a wire repair yourself, (3) get someone to repair it for you or (4) try to get the connector apart but this is a risk.

1. Don't know about the td4 but I have just had a look at the C0243 plug on my v6 as I couldn't find the C0243 only harness in microcat. C0243 is also connected to the starter motor control wire, headlight, headlight levelling and radiator fans. There may also be other stuff. So it looks like it's a multi use wiring harness.

2. Buy a crimp tool and crimps like this

9" Crimping Tool Ratchet Type, Plus 100 Mixed Crimping Terminals | eBay

(cheaper tools are available but they're crimping is crap and not ideal for the job) and some wire like this

RED - THINWALL 1mm sq Automotive Loom Cable / Wire 16.5A ? per 5 metres | eBay

and repair it yourself.

Disconnect the battery. You will need to cut the broken wire where it enters the barrel connector C0243 on both sides of the connector. Now cut open the outer protection on the harness to reveal the inner wires. Pull the faulty wire to one side and strip back the outer coating to reveal the copper wires inside the faulty cable, by 7mm. Use the crimp tool and the fully insulated crimps in the ebay listing (middle option second row up in the box) and crimp one crimp onto the faulty wire, and the other end of the same crimp on the wire you purchased. Now run the purchased wire past the C0243 connector towards the other end of the faulty wire which you cut earlier, to meet with the cut end of the harness. Allow a little extra purchase cable so it's not pulled tight or the stress on it will break it first. Now connect the purchased cable to the faulty cable with a fully covered crimp like before. Now connect the battery, put the rear window up and your Freelanders broken wire should be fixed ok with this repair. Tie wrap the purchased wire to the harness and make sure it's not pulled tight or it will break. If you don't want to use crimps as above then use choc block like this

15 AMP 15A 12 WAY CONNECTOR CABLE LEAD STRIP TERMINAL CHOC BLOCK ELECTRICAL | eBay

and some of the purchased cable as above. The choc block has screw terminals. It's best to use bootlace ferrule crimps like this

RED 1.0mm FERRULE CRIMP (BOOTLACE CRIMPS) QTY=50 | eBay (other sizes available) and bootlace ferrule tool

HS-26TW Twin Bootlace Ferrule Crimping Tool | eBay

(or something similar) to put a crimp on the wire first, and then secure the crimped wire in the choc block for a better connection. You'll need 2x 1 connector block (you can cut them off the strip) and 4 bootlace crimps (2 for the faulty wire and 2 for the purchased cable). Not everyone likes using choc block on electrical wires on cars. I understand their view but it's useful and when done properly can provide a good enough fix. You can fix video's or wiring harness repair on youtube to help. Always work with the power off (battery disconnected).

3. Get an auto electrician to carry out step 2 for you.

4. Try and get C0243 connector open but make sure you know which wire goes where and disconnect the battery first. It looks like it's held together from inside. You release the centre black plastic part which is held in place by the lugs on the inside. I don't think this will solve the problem as it's probably a case the wire has come off the pin inside and you'll strucggle to reconnect it again.

Thanks a lot for the detailed info. I think I go with the crimp version. I think the problem with it is that I don't know where the broken part of the wire is. If it's coming from the connector lugs then it wouldn't fix the problem. I'll try and see where it goes.

I ordered the loom cable from ebay and think will go for the ferrule crimps or anything I found on amazon.de 10 Lötverbinder blau Ø 5mm Schrumpfverbinder Kabelverbinder Stossverbinder: Amazon.de: Auto but couldn't find the english name for it. First you crimp it and then to heat the tube. Might it be good to include the old cable into the bypass as well? I thought as I am not sure where it goes and if there might be anything else connected to incl. it which means I ' create a y-cable on both sides.

Best Regards
Matthias

The additional length of cable would by pass the connectors. You need to make a small cut in the cables insulation and test from this point to the connector, to see if the fault is inside the connector. If not then move down the harness and test again. You need to know where the fault is and by pass that point on the cable.

checked it yesterday like you said and it showed the cable is defect. From cable to the connectors it showed fine. Still waiting for the ordered cable and try to get it fixed.

There's a special tool to get that type of pin out, its a round tube that slides over it to release the barbs then you pull it out from the rear!

Thanks Diesel_Do. Do you know where to get it or is it that expensive that only LR can afford it?

I would imagine this would do it!? eBay item no. 230993971073 its difficult just going off pics tho

Thanks that's it only. They are still telling fairy tales the good old brother Grimm in Germany , 'a special tool'. Might be! :bounce::mil83:. Do you know if that one can also be used for CO932 or only 243?

Changed the red wire yesterday with some crimps and seems to work but when trying to gear or shift through while standing with no engine it goes very hard from P to R and N then is fine . Is there one solenoid which is in 'charge' of driving backwards or could that be a prob with the three amigos switch which was also defect and the old is still in?

mbrokof said:

Changed the red wire yesterday with some crimps and seems to work but when trying to gear or shift through while standing with no engine it goes very hard from P to R and N then is fine . Is there one solenoid which is in 'charge' of driving backwards or could that be a prob with the three amigos switch which was also defect and the old is still in?

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What your describing is mechanical movement of the lever with the engine off, after carrying out only a wiring fix. We need to know if it drives ok after the fix?

oh no sorry, I changed also the 2/4 brake duty one which had strange resistances when measured. The oil lamp was also on so I wasn't really convinced to drive not that it kicks the gearbox completely. Will do that today. I filled in 3.5/3.6l as I didn't measure when draining so will fill up if necessary after the oil has temperature 35-45 at least.

mbrokof said:

oh no sorry, I changed also the 2/4 brake duty one which had strange resistances when measured. The oil lamp was also on so I wasn't really convinced to drive not that it kicks the gearbox completely. Will do that today. I filled in 3.5/3.6l as I didn't measure when draining so will fill up if necessary after the oil has temperature 35-45 at least.

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It would be a good idea to follow the auto oil level check procedure on here to make sure the auto oil level is correct.

Thanks will do. I thought that would be the one to fill in that 3.5 and add more if needed. What would u recommend? Couldn't find it that quick now for auto td4.

PS Just checked rave cd and said same 3.5-4l. then heat up driving (Haynes) 5-10 miles, move lever through all positions 2-3secs, then open level plug and allow excess to drain off.

mbrokof said:

I thought that would be the one to fill in that 3.5 and add more if needed. What would u recommend? Couldn't find it that quick now for auto td4.

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If it's always worked ok then putting back the same amount of new oil, as what drained out, can be ok. But if your not sure what amount drained out or don't know if the level was correct before you started, then if it were my Freelander I would check the auto oil level is correct by following the correct procedure. I would guess after draining the auto oil, further oil would come of out of the solenoid area when you remove the solenoid metal cover?

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/jatco-automatic-gearbox-69336-5.html#post1051582

well there wasn't so much coming out after draining and when I opened the cover but later came out a lot more suddenly when I tried to change the seal for the draining screw. I just added up anything on my last post. I think that should it be then right?. Thanks for the link. Will do that way but still for me the question is are 3.5-3.6l for the start enough?.