Has anyone had experience of Buzzweld's Galv in One chassis paint? I've bought some to paint my soon to arrive galvanised chassis but I'm having a few misgivings about it. According to Buzzweld you just scotchbrite and degrease the newly galved chassis and spray it on. But everyone I've discussed it with seems to doubt that it will stick to the galvanised metal in the long term. I've found reviews where people are very happy with the initial finish but no longer term reviews. I don't have any real reason to doubt that it'll work but as I'm doing a full rebuild I don't want to have to repaint the chassis in a year or two.
Buzzweld Galv In One
- Thread starter Resurgam
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
- Posts
- 6,404
- Location
- North Perthshire
I am not a fan of all-in-one products, and much prefer the old-school approach to most tasks. That's not to say they don't work, just that I don't like them.
I used t-wash, etch primer, hi-build primer and satin topcoat for mine - 2 years back - still looks good today.
Going by Buzzweld's prices and usage guide there isn't much difference pricewise.
I used t-wash, etch primer, hi-build primer and satin topcoat for mine - 2 years back - still looks good today.
Going by Buzzweld's prices and usage guide there isn't much difference pricewise.
I am not a fan of all-in-one products, and much prefer the old-school approach to most tasks. That's not to say they don't work, just that I don't like them.
I used t-wash, etch primer, hi-build primer and satin topcoat for mine - 2 years back - still looks good today.
Going by Buzzweld's prices and usage guide there isn't much difference pricewise.
I used a similar approach to this. T-wash, 5-6 coats of Red Oxide Primer, then 4-5 coats of black. Paint is still attached to the chassis, but it’s dirty now.
I went with the advice from the galvaniser, that you expect paint to stick to new galv without some sort of chemical etch. Even etch primers don’t fully etch into galv, without T-wash.
- Posts
- 10,470
- Location
- A bit sarf of Dorking
I used Moradaunt T-Wash, then a few coats of Zinga (made by MG Duff, who are the number one company in marine corrosion prevention). Really quite a clever product, 99% Zinc, have a read of their tech stuff - particularly how it works as cathodic protection as well as a paint barrier.
I followed that with their Zinga Tar Free (probably much the same as other heavy polyurethane paints) for a stone protecting layer, then some suitable black satinish stuff over the top of that. You can put more or less anything over the tarfree, or just leave it as a dark grey come to that - I wanted it to look original
http://zinga-uk.com/
I've used this all over the project too, getting it on withing an hour of blasting, always on a warm dry day.
I followed that with their Zinga Tar Free (probably much the same as other heavy polyurethane paints) for a stone protecting layer, then some suitable black satinish stuff over the top of that. You can put more or less anything over the tarfree, or just leave it as a dark grey come to that - I wanted it to look original
http://zinga-uk.com/
I've used this all over the project too, getting it on withing an hour of blasting, always on a warm dry day.
- Posts
- 10,470
- Location
- A bit sarf of Dorking
I don't know if you read all the stuff in their web pages, but when you do touch it up it dissolves the old damaged layer and it all becomes one with the new. There's a lot to like about it.
- Posts
- 2,145
- Location
- East of England, UK
Best thing is to speak to Craig at Buzzweld and he will tell you what you want to know.
