Buying a Disco

Hi

I am planning on buying a slightly older Discovery (95-98). My friends have been trying to encourage me not to for a number of reasons.

They say that I am bound to have problems with electrics, the motor and bodywork. I can understand that I will probably need to do some welding for MOT etc which I am ok with. Can anyone please advise the common faults that I should be looking for when buying a second hand car like this. Can someone also give me a bit of clarity on what enginge these models used as I heard there were some problems with the BMW motors which may or may not have been used? I am looking at the 2.5TDI.

I hope someone can give me some clarity on this.

REgards
Ash

ash77 said:

Hi

I am planning on buying a slightly older Discovery (95-98). My friends have been trying to encourage me not to for a number of reasons.

They say that I am bound to have problems with electrics, the motor and bodywork. I can understand that I will probably need to do some welding for MOT etc which I am ok with. Can anyone please advise the common faults that I should be looking for when buying a second hand car like this. Can someone also give me a bit of clarity on what enginge these models used as I heard there were some problems with the BMW motors which may or may not have been used? I am looking at the 2.5TDI.

I hope someone can give me some clarity on this.

REgards
Ash

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Hi Ash, in the age range you are talking about there is only one diesel engine - the TDi300, 2.5ltr turbo/intercooler unit, 111bhp in manual gearbox form, 120bhp in autobox form. The engines are LR through and through - nothing to do with BMW.

The biggest single issue on these vehicles is rust, rust and more rust - did I mention rust? DO NOT UNDERESTIMATE THIS!

We have become used to modern vehicles that, mostly, don't have too many rust issues. These early Discos' do and some!!!!!

When looking at Discos', take a ground sheet with you so you can get underneath and have a GOOD look around at these areas, starting from the front of the vehicle:

1. Front bumper - can look quite manky but cleans up easily;

2. Front inner wings - very often there will be rust here and is an indicator of further unseen rust. Repair panels are available for about £30 each. MOT failure if close to the brake servo;

3. Front body mounts - mot failure if rusted through;

4. Inner and outer sills - structural component. Mot failure if rusted through;

5. Rear inner and outer wheel arches - mot failure if within 30cms of seatbelt anchorage. Outer arch repair panels about £20 each;

6. Boot floor - mot failure if within 30cms of seatbelt anchorage. Repair full panel about £50.

7. Rear body crossmember - mot failure if rusted. Repair panel about £130.

8. Rear body mounts "top hats" - mot failure if rusted through. Repair panel about £20.

The biggest issue is that although you have loads of repairs panels available, when you start working on a Disco you need to cut back and back and back, before putting in new metal. Once the body has been repaired, protect it from rust as if your life depended on it, because it does!!!

Chassis can also rust but they usualy just need patching.

Apart from rust the mechanics are usually ok if they have been serviced and are straightforward to keep going.

Lots of people fancy the idea of buying a Disco but are you ready for servicing every 6000mls, dog slow performance, 25mpg etc etc. They are NOT LIKE running a normal car.

Buy one if you NEED one, otherwise get a normal car, would be my advice.

Good luck

Dave

Ps Late '98 cars (Disco II) can have the TD5 5 cylinder LR diesel engine, more powerful, lot less rust, better road car, more expensive to buy.

Hi Ash,

I agree with Dave...RUST is a definite issue but don't let that put you off.I've just bought a second Disco and note i say second as i can't bear to part with my first 1.My first Disco needs alot of welding for MOT but wot the hell...I'm good at welding and my labour is free.

Join the Discovery Gang and get the bug coz once it has hold of you, you won't want to drive anything else.

Dave

WolfyDave said:

Hi Ash,

Join the Discovery Gang and get the bug coz once it has hold of you, you won't want to drive anything else.

Dave

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That is definitely true Dave, I wonder if Discovery abuse is going to be part of the new goverments "Drugs and Addiction" strategy

Cheers
Dave

Dave i have been watching BBC NEWS 24 and George Osborne has announced a new tax to reduce the deficite.....Its called DAT...yes DAT and not VAT...Apparently it stands for Discovery Addiction Tax....coz they know when we are addicted there is NO KNOWN CURE lol

to you thebiglad, which in your opinion is the best rust proofing product available?

WolfyDave said:

Dave i have been watching BBC NEWS 24 and George Osborne has announced a new tax to reduce the deficite.....Its called DAT...yes DAT and not VAT...Apparently it stands for Discovery Addiction Tax....coz they know when we are addicted there is NO KNOWN CURE lol

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Told yer !!!!!!

Pyper28 said:

to you thebiglad, which in your opinion is the best rust proofing product available?

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First of all I reckon you need to accept that it's a battle that ultimately you will lose, on a Disco.

However, cleaned back, zinc primer'd, hammerite'd and and then Waxoyled is a classic approach.

I'm currently applying an alternative strategy - old EP oil clarted on, every time I'm under there doing work. It costs me nothing as it's the oil I've emptied out of the axles and tranny box, it's relatively easy to clean off if you need to, to do some welding.

But most of all, on my wife's TDi 300 the chassis is in perfect condition where the tranny box has been leaking onto it for years, so why not do the rest of the chassis and apply (quite literally with a brush in my case) the same principle.

It doesn't smell or drip (after the first day) and looks really pukka when done.

Your choice of course.

Dave

I've used a 50/50 mix of grease and transfer box oil. Mixed well in a tub with a wooden spoon. Then liberally applied with a 2" brush.....Works a treat.....I have named this substance Chassis Groil

WolfyDave said:

I've used a 50/50 mix of grease and transfer box oil. Mixed well in a tub with a wooden spoon. Then liberally applied with a 2" brush.....Works a treat.....I have named this substance Chassis Groil

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Excellent Dave, and how long have you been using this approach for? Does it look like it's working for you?

Dave

I steam cleaned the chassis off on my 1995 2.0mpi when i bought it 6 years ago,then blew it dry with my compressor and airline and then coated the chassis.Then i have just recoated it once a year...The chassis is like New with no corrosion anywhere.The good thing about the mix is, its totally waterproof so you dont have to worry if you take it plodging or wading .
I'm gonna do my 2002 with the same stuff and hopefully it will last years and years.
Dave, have a go at making a mix and try a bit on the chassis and see what you think.

WolfyDave said:

I steam cleaned the chassis off on my 1995 2.0mpi when i bought it 6 years ago,then blew it dry with my compressor and airline and then coated the chassis.Then i have just recoated it once a year...The chassis is like New with no corrosion anywhere.The good thing about the mix is, its totally waterproof so you dont have to worry if you take it plodging or wading .
I'm gonna do my 2002 with the same stuff and hopefully it will last years and years.
Dave, have a go at making a mix and try a bit on the chassis and see what you think.

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Alright mate I will. Cheers for that buddy. So there is no question that it has worked for you then

Dave

If you have a little rust on the chassis,just wire brush the loose off and then coat over the top of the rust and it stops it in its tracks.As it starves the rust of oxygen and therefore can't spread.

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the info.

Ash