I am sure that is the conclusion I came to last time, the main reason seems to be not using an old/worn one that has been used with steel rope as it has the chance to be burred and cut the synthetic, or a seized one as you are then rubbing synthetic over hard steel which is not very forgiving like the aluminum is. If it is new or in good conditions I cant see why it wouldn't work with no issue.
Burnt out - rebuild
- Thread starter dag019
- Start date
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Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
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- 15,443
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- Wiltshire
You dusted a little
or you dont have to take a valuable hand of the wheel to check the time.J
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 15,443
- Location
- Wiltshire
Wait till the mrs finds I have not connected the clock up….You dusted a little
J
You don't do dusting an a land rover. The rate at which new parts need to be installed it is self cleaning, the old dirty piece is removed and a new clean piece is put in its place!You dusted a little
J
There is no immediate rush, I am at least a couple of months of finishing! Currently I think I am down in Swindon with work for a bit second week of Feb but can sort something when you are back.
tottot
Well-Known Member
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- 7,516
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- west wales coast
Looks like my clock, nicked from an old Rangy.
New doors arrived from SP 4x4. Although royal fail managed to damage the box there was no damage to the doors thankfully. Got a little time this evening to test for them and all looks good. They don’t appear to be seam sealed so that is the first thing to do. Then t-wash and prime ready for painting. Although they are galvanised I think I will also drill the bottom and fill the frame with dinitrol like I did with my previous ones.
While I wait for other things and I am painting the doors I am now looking to move onto doing the inside of the chassis which I have been putting off as other parts of the rebuild have taken priority. I have ordered a sealey sg18 undercoating gun and plan on doing the same thing @Discodevon mentioned in another thread and extend the lance to be at least a couple of meters to get the full length of the chassis.
Having just done the inner wings pictured above and using nearly 1l of dinitrol to do it, I am worried the couple of liters I have left of 3125HS is not enough. I need to do the front door frames and inner chassis. I am expecting the doors combined to take about a litre so I know I will need to order some more I just want to get enough now and only pay one set of postage. I know the answer I will get is you cannot use too much but how many liters roughly will be required to do the chassis.
Having just done the inner wings pictured above and using nearly 1l of dinitrol to do it, I am worried the couple of liters I have left of 3125HS is not enough. I need to do the front door frames and inner chassis. I am expecting the doors combined to take about a litre so I know I will need to order some more I just want to get enough now and only pay one set of postage. I know the answer I will get is you cannot use too much but how many liters roughly will be required to do the chassis.
Discodevon
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Your rebuild is looking great dag ! You won’t be disappointed with the sg18 undercoating gun one bit, the fluid film I sprayed on is still looking good, little bit has washed off in the wheel arches at the top but barely any, I’ll get a piccy tomorrow
Thank you. It is getting there. How much of the fluid film did you use for inside and outside of the chassis?
Discodevon
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About 7 litres overall, although I maybe could of done with more inside the chassis but that can wait for the summer
Many thanks, I have ordered some more. I am going to do the 90 as well at the same time. once I have the kit out and have covered myself in sticky black wax, I might as well do both.
I have managed to make some more progress, I have fitted the alternator that the company was adamant was not for my vehicle. All lined up and wired in no problem.
I have added a rear washer to the washer bottle that I acquired and have successfully tested it to make sure it doe snot leak. Annoyingly although I put the hole in the same place as the front one the aftermarket washer pump I bought has a longer lower intake port so the whole pump sits a little higher. It is still secure so I am not worried it is just an annoyance at the moment they don't match, once hidden under the wing I will stop noticing!
My dad has been experimenting with learning to plastic welding so I gave him one of the pieces of windscreen trim that had snapped to try and repair. It does not look like a bad job from photos, but I have not seen it in person yet. I will have a look and test fit and then decide it I get a replacement or not. If I decide to do that it is something I will keep an eye out for at the spares days rather than paying the outrageous internet prices!
I have added a rear washer to the washer bottle that I acquired and have successfully tested it to make sure it doe snot leak. Annoyingly although I put the hole in the same place as the front one the aftermarket washer pump I bought has a longer lower intake port so the whole pump sits a little higher. It is still secure so I am not worried it is just an annoyance at the moment they don't match, once hidden under the wing I will stop noticing!
My dad has been experimenting with learning to plastic welding so I gave him one of the pieces of windscreen trim that had snapped to try and repair. It does not look like a bad job from photos, but I have not seen it in person yet. I will have a look and test fit and then decide it I get a replacement or not. If I decide to do that it is something I will keep an eye out for at the spares days rather than paying the outrageous internet prices!
I have finally finished all of the wiring in the battery box and fed cables up to the dash and around the battery bay for the other accessories.
I have a large isolator solenoid each side, the one one the left is for the winch the one on the right that you cannot see very clearly is for the main vehicle and has a low rated ruse fitted to power can still be drawn by things like the radio and the clock etc. T
he large yellow relay on the left hand side is part of the caravan towing loom. This is not something I use anymore but as it is fitted and is only about 8 years old I have kept it and worked around it.
In the middle you can see a blue sea auxiliary fuse box. this has bus bar for earths built into it at the bottom as well as the fuses to provide power. Although I have not used it yet it feels like a quality item and was very easy to put together and felt nicely robust for a plastic box.
to the right of the fusebox is a relay box for the additional accessories. This is quite the opposite of the fuse box and feels very cheap and flimsy but is the best thing I could find to house six relays in the small space available. I am hoping that as it is out of the elements in the battery box it should be fine.
I have made all new main power and earth cables out of welding cable and am using bolt through battery terminals as can be seen loose on the earth side.
Now this part is finished I can put the floor panels in and am finished with the underside f the passenger compartment. This was also the last cable run that I needed up to the dash to be able to finish putting the dash together and mount the raptor console, so that is my next tasks.
I have a large isolator solenoid each side, the one one the left is for the winch the one on the right that you cannot see very clearly is for the main vehicle and has a low rated ruse fitted to power can still be drawn by things like the radio and the clock etc. T
he large yellow relay on the left hand side is part of the caravan towing loom. This is not something I use anymore but as it is fitted and is only about 8 years old I have kept it and worked around it.
In the middle you can see a blue sea auxiliary fuse box. this has bus bar for earths built into it at the bottom as well as the fuses to provide power. Although I have not used it yet it feels like a quality item and was very easy to put together and felt nicely robust for a plastic box.
to the right of the fusebox is a relay box for the additional accessories. This is quite the opposite of the fuse box and feels very cheap and flimsy but is the best thing I could find to house six relays in the small space available. I am hoping that as it is out of the elements in the battery box it should be fine.
I have made all new main power and earth cables out of welding cable and am using bolt through battery terminals as can be seen loose on the earth side.
Now this part is finished I can put the floor panels in and am finished with the underside f the passenger compartment. This was also the last cable run that I needed up to the dash to be able to finish putting the dash together and mount the raptor console, so that is my next tasks.
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That's a busy battery box ...
It looks worse than it actually is. but I could work out where else to put it. Previously I had the relays mounted down the wing lip but it was never tidy. The bulkhead behind the seat has tools mounted to it and the drivers seat is used as a tool box. There is not actually a lot of space that is accessible and open enough to access but protected from the elements while also being tucked out of the way to not impede use despite it being such a large vehicle.
Discodevon
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I did take a picture last week of the fluid film to show you but I’m having trouble uploading it onto here for some reason, but overall I’d highly recommend it so far
Just to keep thing in one place I am now looking at which headlights to use as will hopefully get the wings refitted this week. I have a separate thread discussion here: link but will post the question in this thread as well:
I am just looking for some advice on which model to buy and install. My understanding is that as long as you replace the whole unit rather than just the bulbs you are ok from and MOT perspective, and I am aware of the issues in cold weather and snow with not producing enough heat to clear the lens, I do not live off the top of Scotland or in Scandinavia so it should not be an issue.
My reasons for wanting LED headlights are to reduce the load on the wiring circuit, I have replaced other lights with LEDs as part of my rebuild (link) after the engine fire caused by electrical fault. I am aware of the boomslang harness but having ordered one before the fire to fit I found it poorly made, and not well though through in terms of the positioning of things. I did begin to modify it for improvement but gave up as it was going to cost more to modify than to start from scratch. I currently have brand new wiring looms throughout as part of the rebuild so this is not a “my headlights are dim” type thread because the writing is in poor condition and 30 years old.
I was looking at these: LINK
I am not a fan of the aesthetic but most LED headlights seem to be the same so I have resigned myself to the fact that to have LED’s I will loose the “traditional” look of the front end. One thing I do draw the line at is the halo lights that are around however.
Although they are a lot more expensive the truck-lite LEDs seem to get a very good write up and although different when in use do give a more traditional appearance when not in use. They look to be very well made and reliable. I was looking at these ones from Masai: LINK which seem to be the latest generation. Are they actually worth the money?
Does anyone have an experience with either of these models linked above or recommendations for other good quality LED options?
Within reason price is not what I am looking at, I would rather pay for a proper well made unit that is legal than get some £50 Chinese eBay special.
I am just looking for some advice on which model to buy and install. My understanding is that as long as you replace the whole unit rather than just the bulbs you are ok from and MOT perspective, and I am aware of the issues in cold weather and snow with not producing enough heat to clear the lens, I do not live off the top of Scotland or in Scandinavia so it should not be an issue.
My reasons for wanting LED headlights are to reduce the load on the wiring circuit, I have replaced other lights with LEDs as part of my rebuild (link) after the engine fire caused by electrical fault. I am aware of the boomslang harness but having ordered one before the fire to fit I found it poorly made, and not well though through in terms of the positioning of things. I did begin to modify it for improvement but gave up as it was going to cost more to modify than to start from scratch. I currently have brand new wiring looms throughout as part of the rebuild so this is not a “my headlights are dim” type thread because the writing is in poor condition and 30 years old.
I was looking at these: LINK
I am not a fan of the aesthetic but most LED headlights seem to be the same so I have resigned myself to the fact that to have LED’s I will loose the “traditional” look of the front end. One thing I do draw the line at is the halo lights that are around however.
Although they are a lot more expensive the truck-lite LEDs seem to get a very good write up and although different when in use do give a more traditional appearance when not in use. They look to be very well made and reliable. I was looking at these ones from Masai: LINK which seem to be the latest generation. Are they actually worth the money?
Does anyone have an experience with either of these models linked above or recommendations for other good quality LED options?
Within reason price is not what I am looking at, I would rather pay for a proper well made unit that is legal than get some £50 Chinese eBay special.
Seaswood
Active Member
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- 191
- Location
- Falmouth New England
The starting battery is also the winch battery?
