bugger - drive member bolt :(

top drive

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2,694

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Peoples republic of culter

• Apr 28, 2011

• #1

sheared out when i was removing it replaced drivers side rear drive member and half shaft - moved on to the passengers

1 - 2- 3- 4 came out nae bother - 5 wasnt shifting .... stuck on the breaker bar and sheared the head off flush with the drive member - cant get the drive member off - need to go get me a bearing puller to get it off to get something to grip


oh and typically the only bolt left holding on the rear tow bar brace to the chassis broke up a bit and is no longer has flats when i was removing it - the dremels going to be busy once i get back from hols !

typical land rover

 

jamesmartin

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91,879

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louth lincs

• Apr 28, 2011

• #2

if a bolt is stuck hit head hard several times before applying too much force drive member bolots are 10.9 so have higher tensile strength than std bolt but shear easier,bit late now i know,cant you hammer screw driver/chisel in joint above bolt

 

top drive

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2,694

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Peoples republic of culter

• Apr 28, 2011

• #3

shes no shifting ive been chapping on it - i reckon itll need to be pulled straight off now rather than hit at one point as that pushes it on the angle - ive tried going diagonally round the clock face hitting it also.

id already chapped on the heads before removing - standard practice for removing bolts/screws or threads at work after they have been down hole.

all part of the fun i guess !

 

top drive

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2,694

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Peoples republic of culter

• May 23, 2011

• #4

this is still stuck

created a wee U shaped jig to push off the wheel with a gear puller to no avail - it moves but it appears to be stuck solidly to the shank o the snapped bolt

contemplating getting the grinder out and grinding a slit in the drive member - at least part of the way and using a chisel to open it up- i have new drive member/halfshaft anyway - just want to rescue the hub.

 

C

CwazyWabbit

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Caterham

• May 23, 2011

• #5

Is there a chance where the bolt sheared that it has actually left a bit that is still wider than the hole if you see what I mean? It may be worth trying to drill it slightly, just 1 or 2 mm but with a large drill bit. Have a look at one of the bolts that did come out and see if it looks like there could be a wider bit still stuck.

 

top drive

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2,694

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Peoples republic of culter

• May 23, 2011

• #6

its a flush shank - from under the hex to the top of the thread.

im also contemplating welding a nut to the top of it before i go grinding it - i do risk welding it to drive member though - the heat may do it good - i did chuck a kettle of boiling water over it before i went to take it out the first time mind

 

C

CwazyWabbit

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Caterham

• May 23, 2011

• #7

If you weld a thick washer rather than a nut you'll have more chance of getting a good weld on the bit of bolt that is left, the heat will hopefully break whatever is holding the bolt.
The only thing that can be left holding the drive member on is rust or sealant as far as I can see.
Not that it makes any difference but are these the older thick drive members or the newer thin ones?
For some obscure reason I'd like to see a close up pic of the snapped bolt in the hole.... I guess I'm strange