Bubbles in Header tank

DerekT · Jan 8, 2015

Been having a few starting problems. Ok once it starts, on the button for the rest of the day. BUT, have to crank 10 -15 secs a couple of times first thing before it even thinks about offering.
Did have some problems with fuelling, noisy pump, choked filter etc but these all ok now. Good high pressure feed going into fpr and good flow on the return.
On switching off, always here a gurgle coming from the header tank. ie air in the tank. Filled header tank to brim and started up - water level rises then overflows. Tried a few times, and every time when engine runs, water level rises. Initial thoughts are head gasket or cracked head. I already replaced the head about 9 months ago and would be really p*ssed if this was the cause again. Any thoughts out there as to what else it might be?

trax · Jan 8, 2015

DerekT said:
Been having a few starting problems. Ok once it starts, on the button for the rest of the day. BUT, have to crank 10 -15 secs a couple of times first thing before it even thinks about offering.
Did have some problems with fuelling, noisy pump, choked filter etc but these all ok now. Good high pressure feed going into fpr and good flow on the return.
On switching off, always here a gurgle coming from the header tank. ie air in the tank. Filled header tank to brim and started up - water level rises then overflows. Tried a few times, and every time when engine runs, water level rises. Initial thoughts are head gasket or cracked head. I already replaced the head about 9 months ago and would be really p*ssed if this was the cause again. Any thoughts out there as to what else it might be?

you mean max mark, not brim right?

also are your pipes rock hard?

DerekT · Jan 8, 2015

Did fill it to brim, but with cap off. Made it easier to see if level was rising. First time it overflowed, but I did not refill, subsequent times I was stood over the tank and could see the level rising very quickly each time.
Did the same check with my own td5, (this is my son's one I am having trouble with), no significant change in water levels, again with the cap off.

Just noticed your second question - No pipes are quite soft. Further thought - Header tank cap off so no pressure build up. Will go and try that now.

trax · Jan 8, 2015

DerekT said:
Did fill it to brim, but with cap off. Made it easier to see if level was rising. First time it overflowed, but I did not refill, subsequent times I was stood over the tank and could see the level rising very quickly each time.
Did the same check with my own td5, (this is my son's one I am having trouble with), no significant change in water levels, again with the cap off.

Just noticed your second question - No pipes are quite soft. Further thought - Header tank cap off so no pressure build up. Will go and try that now.

water expands when hot.. hence having a exp tank.

did you get any bubbles going into the tank?

the system should be running under pressure, probably around 14-16psi, to increase the boiling point. so the pipes should be hardish, but not rock hard. check the feel against your other vehicle.

could just be the cap, if it's not releasing pressure or not holding pressure. could stick your cap on your sons and see what happens.

could also just be air left in from not bleeding properly. is it overheating?

i doubt it has anything to do with the hard starting.

DerekT · Jan 8, 2015

trax said:
water expands when hot.. hence having a exp tank.

did you get any bubbles going into the tank?

the system should be running under pressure, probably around 14-16psi, to increase the boiling point. so the pipes should be hardish, but not rock hard. check the feel against your other vehicle.

could just be the cap, if it's not releasing pressure or not holding pressure. could stick your cap on your sons and see what happens.

could also just be air left in from not bleeding properly. is it overheating?

i doubt it has anything to do with the hard starting.

Accept that water expands when hot, but this is when starting from cold,water immediately rises when started to brim when filled to "max" level.

Does not seem to overheat, from what I have read on here, indicated temp guage seems to be no real meaning! Guage usually on the mid point once warmed up and stays there. Heater working fine, Did change the coolant to put in anti-freeze recently,also new radiator put in when I changed head 9 moths ago.

Re the hard starting, just wondered if because the coolant is getting (over?)pressurised when running due to a crack or gasket issue, then perhaps the pressurised coolant is feeding back into a cylinder when lying idle for some time. Of course if this was a significant feedback, then there is the possibility of hydro-locking.

trax · Jan 8, 2015

DerekT said:
Accept that water expands when hot, but this is when starting from cold,water immediately rises when started to brim when filled to "max" level.

Does not seem to overheat, from what I have read on here, indicated temp guage seems to be no real meaning! Guage usually on the mid point once warmed up and stays there. Heater working fine, Did change the coolant to put in anti-freeze recently,also new radiator put in when I changed head 9 moths ago.

Re the hard starting, just wondered if because the coolant is getting (over?)pressurised when running due to a crack or gasket issue, then perhaps the pressurised coolant is feeding back into a cylinder when lying idle for some time. Of course if this was a significant feedback, then there is the possibility of hydro-locking.

i'd have thought you would expect some amount of steam when started.

title mentions it, so is there a lot of bubbles coming up in the res? do they increase on revs? if so, might be wise to get a sniff test to confirm.

DerekT · Jan 8, 2015

Defo air bubbles in expansion tank when engine running. Not looking good.

Shifty1962 · Jan 8, 2015

Get a sniff test done at any local garage. Takes seconds and will confirm a dodgy head gasket or not and its 100% accurate. My local charges a fiver but did mine for nowt because I took then a packet of chocolate biscuits.

trax · Jan 8, 2015

what gasket did you use btw when you replaced it?

notenoughtime · Jan 8, 2015

Doesn't sound good I'm afraid!

Monkey13 · Jan 10, 2015

The system actually runs at 22 psi also you youonly bleed the system with the engine off on these

DerekT · Jan 15, 2015

Ok, have head stripped and out, Just waiting for new head gasket to arrive, yes Trax, it is a genuine LR gasket this time, cant be sure what the last one was but may have been in a blue pack!

Next question: One of the jobs I have been meaning to do, but have always put off, is replacing the clutch. There is very little travel in it and can be difficult to get in gear when cold. On top of that there is the squealing spigot bearing to be replaced.
Having replaced a gearbox in my other 110 from underneath and inside the cabin, I wondered now that I have the engine in half anyway and all the manifolds clear of the block, would I be just as well lifting the engine out and replacing the clutch from the front and top?
Thoughts out there?

trax · Jan 15, 2015

yup, quite a few prefer to take it out to do clutches anyway

Shifty1962 · Jan 16, 2015

I always pull the engine on my landys to do the clutches as it is less aggro in my opinion. It also gives you the chance to give the engine bay the once over and do any fiddly jobs on the engine before it goes back in.

DerekT · Jan 16, 2015

All stripped and ready to pull out. Just one bolt to go, head rounded of course, there is always one. Have a chain block coming next week to lift it. Have a huge girder overhead to hang it from. And yes Shifty, can already see lots of little jobs that can be done while I am at it.!

Bubbles in Header tank

DerekT

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trax

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DerekT

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trax

.

DerekT

Active Member

trax

.

DerekT

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Shifty1962

Well-Known Member

trax

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notenoughtime

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Monkey13

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DerekT

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trax

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Shifty1962

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DerekT

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