L322 Brembo caliper iffy.....

gstuart said:

daft question is it better using stainless steel bolts instead of the steel ones to try and prevent the electrolysis issues or simply coppaslip ??

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neither stainless or copaslip your just adding more differentials

I'm going to cable tie it on.

jamesmartin said:

neither stainless or copaslip your just adding more differentials

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surely there not put in dry are they , ie what about ceramic grease ??

must admit i’ve always used coppaslip on caliper bolts

myfirstl322 said:

I'm going to cable tie it on.

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make sure u double them up for safety sake,

gstuart said:

surely there not put in dry are they , ie what about ceramic grease ??

must admit i’ve always used coppaslip on caliper bolts

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why dry or stud lock

@myfirstl322

this was the link i was thinking about m12 x 1.5 x 18mm

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2758756-post1.html

Maybe I could weld it on, I think I have a dissimilar rods kicking about.

Ok, yeah, Gonna look on the bay for a kit,

even if I just get this repair out of the way I'll be happy to have the rest of kit handy, even if I never use it.

jamesmartin said:

neither stainless or copaslip your just adding more differentials

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I'm gonna say BS unless you put a scientific linky up to the contrary,

myfirstl322 said:

Ok, yeah, Gonna look on the bay for a kit,

even if I just get this repair out of the way I'll be happy to have the rest of kit handy, even if I never use it.

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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Helicoil...hash=item41a4d8de4c:m:mX0kzdtNdIJTiAP9681-wRg

wonder if bolt length of 16.3mm would be suitable ??

It may be,
I'm thread locking it tomorrow so I will measure it precisely.

Found myself all out out thread lock.

I'm going to do the insert though.

Thanks to everyone for their input, it's just never happened to me before.,

myfirstl322 said:

I'm gonna say BS unless you put a scientific linky up to the contrary,

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you can say what you want,no skin of my nose,take or leave any advice

jamesmartin said:

why dry or stud lock

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suppose would it also depend on what the manufacturer specifies , ie if thread lock is to be used or not

thinking about it, would the thread lock indeed keep moisture out and therefore preventing ingress of water onto the bolt ??

jamesmartin said:

you can say what you want,no skin of my nose,take or leave any advice

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Sorry bud, I thought you'd you had something concrete to quash my stance,
maybe a chart of noble metals and a dash of galvanic reactions maybe???

Anything really, I'm all ears, in fact, 99% of us are waiting.

gstuart said:

suppose would it also depend on what the manufacturer specifies , ie if thread lock is to be used or not

thinking about it, would the thread lock indeed keep moisture out and therefore preventing ingress of water onto the bolt ??

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caliper bolts like many come encapsulated ie pre stud locked, corrosions issues are with bolt heads or lengths of thread poking out on the other side

Not in this case, bolts don't protrude in this installation hence the complete lack of rust on the bolts, even the end grain is rust free.

Heads are also corrosion free.

I've never heard the term...pre stud locked, what does it mean?

jamesmartin said:

caliper bolts like many come encapsulated ie pre stud locked, corrosions issues are with bolt heads or lengths of thread poking out on the other side

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cheers , well just checked what is req for my D3 and says to use blue thread lock on caliper bolts

but must admit have always used new caliper bolts, normally come with pads , well useto anyway , where i’ve not seen threadlock on them i’ve indeed used the coppaslip

also read an article about using small rubber caps on the end of bolts where they protrude, but there suppose to be useless as they can also trap water

myfirstl322 said:

Not in this case, bolts don't protrude in this installation hence the complete lack of rust on the bolts, even the end grain is rust free.

Heads are also corrosion free.

I've never heard the term...pre stud locked, what does it mean?

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a defender and d1 caliper bolt, the blue is the encapsulation ie a stud lock,copaslip is for high temp situations doesnt help other if you want lube use oil, stainless does effect steel and its tensile strenght isnt suitable for important fastenings in fact most bolts for such as calipers are special bolts ie produced for that function

gstuart said:

cheers , well just checked what is req for my D3 and says to use blue thread lock on caliper bolts

but must admit have always used new caliper bolts, normally come with pads , well useto anyway , where i’ve not seen threadlock on them i’ve indeed used the coppaslip

also read an article about using small rubber caps on the end of bolts where they protrude, but there suppose to be useless as they can also trap water

Click to expand...

oil or std grease is perfect for those

http://structx.com/Material_Properties_001.html

As you can see, steel is the most appropriate material for a bolt, and for this application on an Aluminium alloy caliper also.
I've never liked using threadlock on caliper carrier bolts, regardless of what's advocated, and I've proved it to myself countless times by the repeat friends whom only use me, and I've gone back in to those same bolts maybe 3 years later with no issues backing them bolts out, all nicely coppaslipped..
That's just me though, I hate having to back out a gummy thread.