Brake problem

Bryguitar · Nov 2, 2012

Another problem I have now

when I press my brake It works then it pushes back up then back down once it has gone back down it becomes harder to stop dosnt go to the floor just becomes abit softer to press, abs pump comes on, even when engine is off and just ignition on I press brake its hard at first then becomes soft then abs pumpo comes on.

P38 diesel, manual

p38owner2 · Nov 2, 2012

Hi, a very annoying fault! I have a similar issue, and so far have lived with it, but I am certain it lies with the abs pump, I think it is called an accumulator, it is under the brake fluid reserviour, it is a black round thing! I am sure someone with a lot more knowledge than me will be able to help you further

rodntod · Nov 2, 2012

Good news is the pump is working.sounds like you might need a new accumulator though.Do a search is well covered.DIY job.

Datatek · Nov 2, 2012

Accumulator, unless that is you can hear or feel a click in the peddle when you push it.

p38owner2 · Nov 2, 2012

hi datatek, what does it mean if you can feel a click in the pedal?

Bryguitar · Nov 2, 2012

If the accumulator has failed will there be leakage aound where it screws in as mine has no leaks or do they just lose pressure when they fail?

rodntod · Nov 2, 2012

Bryguitar said:
If the accumulator has failed will there be leakage aound where it screws in as mine has no leaks or do they just lose pressure when they fail?

Normally no leaks just loss of internal pressure in the charged part of the cylinder

Grit Valve · Nov 3, 2012

Easy job to do read through rave procedure, give the brakes and master cylinder a bleed too and all should be fine .

Datatek · Nov 3, 2012

p38owner2 said:
hi datatek, what does it mean if you can feel a click in the pedal?

Total loss of brakes can occur at any time. Do a search and also look on rangerovers.net. a guy in OZ makes the bits to fix the problem if you are competant at DIY mechs.

wammers · Nov 3, 2012

Bryguitar said:
If the accumulator has failed will there be leakage aound where it screws in as mine has no leaks or do they just lose pressure when they fail?

The accumulator has an internal diaphragm. One side of this is charged with Nitrogen at 80 bars. The pump fills the other side with fluid against this initial pressure to give a reserve for use by the braking system. If the nitrogen pressure is totally lost, there is no reserve pressure and the pump will run on every application of the brakes.

dogsbody · Nov 3, 2012

wammers said:
The accumulator has an internal diaphragm. One side of this is charged with Nitrogen at 80 bars. The pump fills the other side with fluid against this initial pressure to give a reserve for use by the braking system. If the nitrogen pressure is totally lost, there is no reserve pressure and the pump will run on every application of the brakes.

Wammers you never cease to amaze me! How the heck can you pull the internal pressure of a brake accumulator off the top of your head?

gencybay · Nov 3, 2012

dogsbody said:
Wammers you never cease to amaze me! How the heck can you pull the internal pressure of a brake accumulator off the top of your head?

Think his probably the designer/architect of these beasts that give rise to so many woes.

G~

Bryguitar · Nov 9, 2012

Bought my new accumulator and arrived today

, but can I hell get the old one off tried all different types of oil filter straps, there is a 22mm nut on the bottom of 'the bomb' but cant get spanner on. :Cry: Is that the best way to get them off is the filter straps?

StuckAgainSteve · Nov 9, 2012

Changed mine in less than 5 minutes - easiest job in the world.

Grit Valve · Nov 9, 2012

Bryguitar said:
Bought my new accumulator and arrived today , but can I hell get the old one off tried all different types of oil filter straps, there is a 22mm nut on the bottom of 'the bomb' but cant get spanner on. :Cry: Is that the best way to get them off is the filter straps?

Yep shouldn't be that tight when looking over it you need to be turning anti clockwise from drivers wing toward passenger wing you going the right way?? Strap is best

StuckAgainSteve · Nov 9, 2012

I wrapped mine in duct tape and used a chain wrench - but it wasn't particularly tight - it would have probably budged without this intervention.

Grit Valve · Nov 9, 2012

StuckAgainSteve said:
I wrapped mine in duct tape and used a chain wrench - but it wasn't particularly tight - it would have probably budged without this intervention.

I used strap type 5 mins you half a job didn't you bleed brakes as well
Could of been contaminated ..

StuckAgainSteve · Nov 9, 2012

After cleaning around the accumulator and blowing any dust away, I removed the accumulator. I used my vacuum pump to suck the dribble of fluid out of the pump opening and syringed new fluid up to the brim of the accumulator fitting, I also sucked all the old fluid out of the master cylinder and refilled with fresh fluid. It still took less than 5 minutes start to finish - I didn't bother bleeding it, I don't think it's necessary. the brakes are excellent - no sponginess at all.

Grit Valve · Nov 9, 2012

StuckAgainSteve said:
After cleaning around the accumulator and blowing any dust away, I removed the accumulator. I used my vacuum pump to suck the dribble of fluid out of the pump opening and syringed new fluid up to the brim of the accumulator fitting, I also sucked all the old fluid out of the master cylinder and refilled with fresh fluid. It still took less than 5 minutes start to finish - I didn't bother bleeding it, I don't think it's necessary. the brakes are excellent - no sponginess at all.

Fair enough I change mine every two years or in any new car water and all that

StuckAgainSteve · Nov 9, 2012

defender300td1 said:
Fair enough I change mine every two years or in any new car water and all that

Excellent advice, I think main dealers often ignore fluid changes even if they've been specified - seen many cars that have had main services with filthy black fluid. Changing your fluid every two years will extend the life of all the components. I usually use synthetic DOT 5.1 (not DOT 5!) which is kind to paintwork and backward compatible with DOT 2,3 & 4.

Brake problem

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