bodge99
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Part 2. Work in progress... comments welcome.
Section 2.
Guide to handling copper pipe. Unrolling, cutting and deburring. The use of the bending and flaring tools.
Whatever type of pipe you have purchased, you probably will have either two 25 foot coils or several smaller coils (if you have purchased lengths made up to order.). As with any type of brake pipe (including fully preformed steel lengths), proper handling is needed so that no damage occurs. Any metal object has physical limitations.. such things as copper and steel pipes will begin to work harden during the bending process.. Excessive "working" of any material will eventually cause failure. It is therefore prudent to keep any handling to a minimum.
Unrolling pipe: I recommend that you don't start unrolling lengths of pipe until you're actually ready to use it.
Firstly you will need some method of straightening the coils. I use the method described next. Take your two lengths of MDF (or similar) and either clamp them or screw them together leaving a small overlap (see photo). I normally place marks on it every 10cm or so (to help with pipe length measurement). Place the assembly on the ground. Ensure that you have sufficient room so that you can slide the straightened pipe along the ground.
Once you have determined the approximate length of your first section of pipe then remove the packaging from the copper coils. Now position and hold the coils at approximately 45 degrees to the clamped MDF edge. Hold the end of the pipe in the MDF junction with one hand and simply unroll the pipe "into" and along the straight edge. When you have reached the end of your length of wood simply slide the pipe sideways and repeat.. Measure and mark the pipe in preparation for cutting.
Pipe cutting: I recommend the use of the rotational type of pipe cutter. The more accurate the cut is, the better. This type of cutter gives good results. Place the cutter onto the pipe, with the cutting edge aligned to the (previously marked) cutting position. Ensure that the pipe lies between the cutter rollers. Tighten the adjustment screw until the cutting wheel grips the pipe slightly. Now rotate the cutter around the pipe a few times, tightening a little after every rotation or so. You will soon get the feel for doing this. I normally seal the end of the open pipe with a little tape if it is not going to be used immediately (keeps the crud out).
Deburring: I just use a 10mm (or so) flat wood bit. I normally do this just before I make the flare.
With the pipe pointing downwards (so that any swarf falls out of the pipe), insert the point of the flat bit into the pipe end. Press gently and rotate the bit so that the cutting edge removes the burr left from the pipe cutter. Remove the flat bit and tap the pipe end with the tool to ensure that anything loose falls out.
Use of the bending tool: See the photo sequence in conjunction with this section.
Open the tool. Place the pipe into the (normally smallest, or second smallest) groove, ensuring that it is positioned on the correct side of the guide stop. Now pull the handle forward, you will see the upper wheel rotating around the lower one. The angle of bend is indicated by the pointer. When complete, pull the handle fully back and remove the bender from the pipe.
The bending procedure is the easy bit. Knowing exactly where to bend and in what direction takes a little thought.
I've found it easier to measure to the center of any particular bend.. be it a 45 or 90 degree.. or whatever it actually is. The pipe bender will place the center of the bend at a different distance from the "start" of bend location. It has to, in this design, as the bend radius is fixed.
I have "calibrated" my bending tool in the following way: See the following photo sequence.
Select a reference point on the bender. You will use this reference point when locating the tool for all bends from now on (call this point "Ref").
Take an offcut of pipe and mark it about 10cm from the end with your sharpie (call this point "a"). Place the pipe into the bender with "a" aligned to "Ref". Bend the pipe until the 45 degree mark aligns with the rotation indicator. Open the tool and remove the pipe.
Now place a mark at the center of the bend (call this point "b"). Measure the distance between both "a" and "b" (along the actual pipe) and write it down. This is your offset for a 45 degree bend.
Replace the pipe into the bender exactly as it was earlier. Now continue to bend the pipe until a 90 degree bend is formed. As before, remove the pipe, mark the centre of the bend (call this point "c"). Measure the distance from "a" to "c". Write this figure down. This is your offset for a 90 degree bend.
If you wish to, you could generate offset measurements for (example) 30 and 60 degrees. I've found that it is sufficient to extrapolate approximate figures from these two.
My figures are these:
45 degrees - 48mm [[my actual figures to be entered here.. when I've found my notes]]
90 degrees - 68mm
Now as an example of how to place a 45 degree bend at a specific point on a length of pipe:
********* I've just noticed a minor mistake here (below). I'll correct this when I can.. sorry!! ********
Mark the pipe where the centre of the bend is required. Place a mark 48mm (use your offset measurement here) to the left of this mark (if using the pipe bender with the handles pointing to the left). Place the tool on the pipe with your bender "Ref" point aligned with the left hand mark.
Form the bend by rotating the operating handle until the angle marker aligns with the 45 degree mark. Remove tool.. Bend completed.
The next stage is to determine the relative position of any subsequent bends. Here I don't mean the distance from one bend to to next but the actual difference in 3D space.
Consider the following.
This is harder to describe and takes longer to read then it does to actually perform the task.
I've "laboured" the process somewhat... I've done this so it more accurately represents how you will be working on the pipe when fitting it to the car.
Take an offcut of pipe about 30cm long. Select one end of the pipe and mark it. This is your start point.
Now to form a 90 degree bend on a pipe with the centre of the bend at 10cm from the start:
Place a mark at 10cm from the start. Measure back (your previously measured offset for a 90 degree bend) and mark the pipe (call this point "A"). Place the tool with the "Ref" aligned to "A" and create the bend.
Now to create a second 90 degree bend a further 10cm along the pipe:
This time, create the bend so that it points to the "upper right", at 45 degrees. See photos.
Measure and mark the required position of the centre of the second bend. The center to be 10cm from the first. Measure back (the 90 degree offset measurement) and mark this point as before (call this point "B"). Place the tool on the pipe and align "Ref" with "B".
This time we want the bend formed in a different direction. Hold the pipe with the "start" pipe end pointing down and the first 90 degree bend uppermost. Position the pipe so that the far end is pointing away from you. Now rotate the bender around the pipe so that the proposed second bend will be formed at between 1 and 2 o'clock (45 degrees to the horizontal). Make the bend (after ensuring that the reference marks are still aligned). Remove tool. Job done.. well done! You are now nearly ready to start bending pipes...
Use of the flaring tool:
This is not the place to discuss the merits or otherwise of ISO flares.. Just how to use the flaring tool to make the required flares.
There are two types of flare used on the Freelander braking system. Both types are formed in exactly the same way. The first type is described below. The second type is formed in the same way but simply has a "dimple" in the end. See photos for clarification.
The connections to the ABS pump use the first type. All other connections use the second type.
I've seen discussions regarding the exact usage of this tool as it is often supplied without usage instructions.
I have experimented with offcuts and different techniques and I'm of the opinion that the described method gives the best results.
The toolset consists of a pipe clamp, a 2 piece screw-type 45 degree spreader and several flare dies.
The pipe clamp is suitable for pipes of various diameters, as are the flare dies. I used the smallest die in conjunction with the smallest pipe hole. Each of the dies has a small pin on the centre of the reverse side. This is used to locate the die onto the pipe end.
See photo sequence.
Make a flare:
As before, this is harder to describe and takes longer to read then it does to actually perform the task.
Take an offcut of pipe. Deburr the end. It is important that the end of the pipe is cut square. The overall accuracy of the flare depends on this.
The machined recess in each pipe hole of the clamp indicates the working side of the tool. The ridges seen inside the pipe holes are used to grip the pipe when the 2 wingnuts on the pipe clamp are tightened.
Slacken off the two wingnuts on the pipe clamp, enough so that the pipe can be inserted through the relevant hole. Push about 5mm or so above the level of the working surface, tighten the wingnuts slightly.. just enough to grip the pipe gently. Place the die (pin uppermost) onto the working surface, directly next to the pipe.
Now adjust the length of protruding pipe so that the length showing is **exactly** the same as the depth of the outer edge of the adjacent die. Fully tighten the two wing nuts, ensuring that both halves of the pipe clamp are exactly level.
You are now ready to produce a flare.
The clamp has a longer leg on one of the sides, this is to allow the tool to held in a vice. The use of one is helpful (initially, at least) but not essential.
Lubricate the dished surface of the die (the side with the pin) with a drop of brake fluid or silicon oil.
Place the die onto the protruding pipe end with the pin inserted into the pipe bore.
Unscrew the spreader fully. Now slide the legs of the spreader over the side of the clamp.
Rotate the spreader 90 degrees to an upright position and place it so the spreader tip is above the center of the die. Tighten the spreader center bolt, reducing the distance from the spreader tip to the die. Continue until the two meet (with light resistance).
Before proceeding, ensure that the locating edges at the bottom of the spreader legs are equally in contact with bottom of the pipe clamp. Rotate the whole spreader clockwise (looking down) as far as the spreader will go.
This ensures that the spreader is exactly centralised on the die, is perfectly vertical and cannot move during the flare forming process.
To create the basic flare, simply tighten the spreader bolt. As you wind the bolt down, the die will be forced down towards the clamp, so forming the copper flare. Continue until the die meets the clamp. The flare is formed underneath the dished underside of the die. Undo the spreader bolt and remove the die from the pipe. Immediately return the die to the storage case/tool box. This ensures that the die is not misplaced (how do I know this?...).
If the flare requires a "dimple" to be formed in the flair then simply retighten the spreader bolt. The act of forcing the tip into the pipe end produces this dimple. The diameter of the dimple depends on how far the tip is wound into the copper. Start small, undo and inspect. Comparision of this with one of the steel flares will show how far to go.
Unscrew and remove the spreader, loosen the 2 clamp wingnuts and remove the pipe. You have made your first flare.. Well done!
Examine and compare your new flare with an original steel one. As long as the flare and/or pipe is not distorted then all should be good.
more coming..
Section 2.
Guide to handling copper pipe. Unrolling, cutting and deburring. The use of the bending and flaring tools.
Whatever type of pipe you have purchased, you probably will have either two 25 foot coils or several smaller coils (if you have purchased lengths made up to order.). As with any type of brake pipe (including fully preformed steel lengths), proper handling is needed so that no damage occurs. Any metal object has physical limitations.. such things as copper and steel pipes will begin to work harden during the bending process.. Excessive "working" of any material will eventually cause failure. It is therefore prudent to keep any handling to a minimum.
Unrolling pipe: I recommend that you don't start unrolling lengths of pipe until you're actually ready to use it.
Firstly you will need some method of straightening the coils. I use the method described next. Take your two lengths of MDF (or similar) and either clamp them or screw them together leaving a small overlap (see photo). I normally place marks on it every 10cm or so (to help with pipe length measurement). Place the assembly on the ground. Ensure that you have sufficient room so that you can slide the straightened pipe along the ground.
Once you have determined the approximate length of your first section of pipe then remove the packaging from the copper coils. Now position and hold the coils at approximately 45 degrees to the clamped MDF edge. Hold the end of the pipe in the MDF junction with one hand and simply unroll the pipe "into" and along the straight edge. When you have reached the end of your length of wood simply slide the pipe sideways and repeat.. Measure and mark the pipe in preparation for cutting.
Pipe cutting: I recommend the use of the rotational type of pipe cutter. The more accurate the cut is, the better. This type of cutter gives good results. Place the cutter onto the pipe, with the cutting edge aligned to the (previously marked) cutting position. Ensure that the pipe lies between the cutter rollers. Tighten the adjustment screw until the cutting wheel grips the pipe slightly. Now rotate the cutter around the pipe a few times, tightening a little after every rotation or so. You will soon get the feel for doing this. I normally seal the end of the open pipe with a little tape if it is not going to be used immediately (keeps the crud out).
Deburring: I just use a 10mm (or so) flat wood bit. I normally do this just before I make the flare.
With the pipe pointing downwards (so that any swarf falls out of the pipe), insert the point of the flat bit into the pipe end. Press gently and rotate the bit so that the cutting edge removes the burr left from the pipe cutter. Remove the flat bit and tap the pipe end with the tool to ensure that anything loose falls out.
Use of the bending tool: See the photo sequence in conjunction with this section.
Open the tool. Place the pipe into the (normally smallest, or second smallest) groove, ensuring that it is positioned on the correct side of the guide stop. Now pull the handle forward, you will see the upper wheel rotating around the lower one. The angle of bend is indicated by the pointer. When complete, pull the handle fully back and remove the bender from the pipe.
The bending procedure is the easy bit. Knowing exactly where to bend and in what direction takes a little thought.
I've found it easier to measure to the center of any particular bend.. be it a 45 or 90 degree.. or whatever it actually is. The pipe bender will place the center of the bend at a different distance from the "start" of bend location. It has to, in this design, as the bend radius is fixed.
I have "calibrated" my bending tool in the following way: See the following photo sequence.
Select a reference point on the bender. You will use this reference point when locating the tool for all bends from now on (call this point "Ref").
Take an offcut of pipe and mark it about 10cm from the end with your sharpie (call this point "a"). Place the pipe into the bender with "a" aligned to "Ref". Bend the pipe until the 45 degree mark aligns with the rotation indicator. Open the tool and remove the pipe.
Now place a mark at the center of the bend (call this point "b"). Measure the distance between both "a" and "b" (along the actual pipe) and write it down. This is your offset for a 45 degree bend.
Replace the pipe into the bender exactly as it was earlier. Now continue to bend the pipe until a 90 degree bend is formed. As before, remove the pipe, mark the centre of the bend (call this point "c"). Measure the distance from "a" to "c". Write this figure down. This is your offset for a 90 degree bend.
If you wish to, you could generate offset measurements for (example) 30 and 60 degrees. I've found that it is sufficient to extrapolate approximate figures from these two.
My figures are these:
45 degrees - 48mm [[my actual figures to be entered here.. when I've found my notes]]
90 degrees - 68mm
Now as an example of how to place a 45 degree bend at a specific point on a length of pipe:
********* I've just noticed a minor mistake here (below). I'll correct this when I can.. sorry!! ********
Mark the pipe where the centre of the bend is required. Place a mark 48mm (use your offset measurement here) to the left of this mark (if using the pipe bender with the handles pointing to the left). Place the tool on the pipe with your bender "Ref" point aligned with the left hand mark.
Form the bend by rotating the operating handle until the angle marker aligns with the 45 degree mark. Remove tool.. Bend completed.
The next stage is to determine the relative position of any subsequent bends. Here I don't mean the distance from one bend to to next but the actual difference in 3D space.
Consider the following.
This is harder to describe and takes longer to read then it does to actually perform the task.
I've "laboured" the process somewhat... I've done this so it more accurately represents how you will be working on the pipe when fitting it to the car.
Take an offcut of pipe about 30cm long. Select one end of the pipe and mark it. This is your start point.
Now to form a 90 degree bend on a pipe with the centre of the bend at 10cm from the start:
Place a mark at 10cm from the start. Measure back (your previously measured offset for a 90 degree bend) and mark the pipe (call this point "A"). Place the tool with the "Ref" aligned to "A" and create the bend.
Now to create a second 90 degree bend a further 10cm along the pipe:
This time, create the bend so that it points to the "upper right", at 45 degrees. See photos.
Measure and mark the required position of the centre of the second bend. The center to be 10cm from the first. Measure back (the 90 degree offset measurement) and mark this point as before (call this point "B"). Place the tool on the pipe and align "Ref" with "B".
This time we want the bend formed in a different direction. Hold the pipe with the "start" pipe end pointing down and the first 90 degree bend uppermost. Position the pipe so that the far end is pointing away from you. Now rotate the bender around the pipe so that the proposed second bend will be formed at between 1 and 2 o'clock (45 degrees to the horizontal). Make the bend (after ensuring that the reference marks are still aligned). Remove tool. Job done.. well done! You are now nearly ready to start bending pipes...
Use of the flaring tool:
This is not the place to discuss the merits or otherwise of ISO flares.. Just how to use the flaring tool to make the required flares.
There are two types of flare used on the Freelander braking system. Both types are formed in exactly the same way. The first type is described below. The second type is formed in the same way but simply has a "dimple" in the end. See photos for clarification.
The connections to the ABS pump use the first type. All other connections use the second type.
I've seen discussions regarding the exact usage of this tool as it is often supplied without usage instructions.
I have experimented with offcuts and different techniques and I'm of the opinion that the described method gives the best results.
The toolset consists of a pipe clamp, a 2 piece screw-type 45 degree spreader and several flare dies.
The pipe clamp is suitable for pipes of various diameters, as are the flare dies. I used the smallest die in conjunction with the smallest pipe hole. Each of the dies has a small pin on the centre of the reverse side. This is used to locate the die onto the pipe end.
See photo sequence.
Make a flare:
As before, this is harder to describe and takes longer to read then it does to actually perform the task.
Take an offcut of pipe. Deburr the end. It is important that the end of the pipe is cut square. The overall accuracy of the flare depends on this.
The machined recess in each pipe hole of the clamp indicates the working side of the tool. The ridges seen inside the pipe holes are used to grip the pipe when the 2 wingnuts on the pipe clamp are tightened.
Slacken off the two wingnuts on the pipe clamp, enough so that the pipe can be inserted through the relevant hole. Push about 5mm or so above the level of the working surface, tighten the wingnuts slightly.. just enough to grip the pipe gently. Place the die (pin uppermost) onto the working surface, directly next to the pipe.
Now adjust the length of protruding pipe so that the length showing is **exactly** the same as the depth of the outer edge of the adjacent die. Fully tighten the two wing nuts, ensuring that both halves of the pipe clamp are exactly level.
You are now ready to produce a flare.
The clamp has a longer leg on one of the sides, this is to allow the tool to held in a vice. The use of one is helpful (initially, at least) but not essential.
Lubricate the dished surface of the die (the side with the pin) with a drop of brake fluid or silicon oil.
Place the die onto the protruding pipe end with the pin inserted into the pipe bore.
Unscrew the spreader fully. Now slide the legs of the spreader over the side of the clamp.
Rotate the spreader 90 degrees to an upright position and place it so the spreader tip is above the center of the die. Tighten the spreader center bolt, reducing the distance from the spreader tip to the die. Continue until the two meet (with light resistance).
Before proceeding, ensure that the locating edges at the bottom of the spreader legs are equally in contact with bottom of the pipe clamp. Rotate the whole spreader clockwise (looking down) as far as the spreader will go.
This ensures that the spreader is exactly centralised on the die, is perfectly vertical and cannot move during the flare forming process.
To create the basic flare, simply tighten the spreader bolt. As you wind the bolt down, the die will be forced down towards the clamp, so forming the copper flare. Continue until the die meets the clamp. The flare is formed underneath the dished underside of the die. Undo the spreader bolt and remove the die from the pipe. Immediately return the die to the storage case/tool box. This ensures that the die is not misplaced (how do I know this?...).
If the flare requires a "dimple" to be formed in the flair then simply retighten the spreader bolt. The act of forcing the tip into the pipe end produces this dimple. The diameter of the dimple depends on how far the tip is wound into the copper. Start small, undo and inspect. Comparision of this with one of the steel flares will show how far to go.
Unscrew and remove the spreader, loosen the 2 clamp wingnuts and remove the pipe. You have made your first flare.. Well done!
Examine and compare your new flare with an original steel one. As long as the flare and/or pipe is not distorted then all should be good.
more coming..
Last edited:
