Brake peddle clicks and sometimes nothing there....

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Black 4.0 - V8 and I love it..

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Hi,

I have a p38 and just recently there was a little click when I pushed the brake peddle, then the brakes worked. id di this a few times, but not every time.

Yesterday I pushed the brake peddle and nothing, it was really lose.
pumped it and they immediately started working again.
Was a bit of a shock, I can tell you.

So took it to the village garage, he stuck it on diagnostics and said that I need a new brake master cylider (modulator). the big lump at the back he told me. I am a bit think, so he keeps it simple.

Sounds very expensive, more that the cars worth LOL.

I read in the forum about air and valves sticking.

Can any of you experts help me find out what's wrong and how to fix.

Thanks very very very much...

L
 
magictiny said:
He probably means the accumulator, this keeps the ABS pressurised - less than £200 to buy ;)
Click to expand...

The modulator is not the accumulator. It is the valve rather like a master cylinder that distributes the pressure to the brakes. It can modulate to pulse ABS independently on each wheel. Big bucks to replace that.
 
There is a guy in the states making a replacement part for the bit that goes. Its a little plastic part inside in the mechanism taht they replace with a stainless steel part. Its a real serial problem that seems to afflict every P38 and is real dangerous. The guys across the pond are considering taking a class action against LR as they believe its a design fault that LR have not accepted.

Check out RangeRovers.net • View topic - Please read all P38 owners up to mid 1999(brake modulators) on rangerovers.net
 
start with the accumulator mate. its less then a hundred actually. i got mine for around 90 pounds. the modulator costs around 1800. spud's right, the bit that goes is a little cheap plastic disc that later was changed to steel. a kit for replacing it is now available (you can check rover renovations).

personally i doubt the modulator is your problem since you say the braking comes back once you pump. i'd just start by bleeding the system in case there are airlocks as you rightly mention.
 
Ive got exactly the same fault, its an ass clenching sensation when it happens !!

Ive ordered the repair kit, the guys in Aus not the States tho. Mines booked in to have it fitted next week, will post the results.

Steve
 
You guys are just great.
thanks thanks thanks.

I will start as rasheed says.
Where did you get one for £90? got a number, as I will take one.


Be very interested to here how you get on javars, did you get it direct or from here:
http://http://www.rover-renovations.com/Brake-Repair-Kit-95-99-RR-p/bmr-kit.htm

Thanks again to everyone...
really, properly.

I would be lost without you, and I love my RR
Not like, in a weird way..

:)
 
Last edited:
Black 4.0 - V8 and I love it.. said:
You guys are just great.
thanks thanks thanks.

I will start as rasheed says.
Where did you get one for £90? got a number, as I will take one.


Be very interested to here how you get on javars, did you get it direct or from here:
http://http://www.rover-renovations.com/Brake-Repair-Kit-95-99-RR-p/bmr-kit.htm

Thanks again to everyone...
really, properly.

I would be lost without you, and I love my RR
Not like, in a weird way..

:)
Click to expand...


Don't waste your money on the accumulator, this is a well documented very dangerous fault. Get the repair kit from the guy in Aus.
 
Black 4.0 - V8 and I love it.. said:
Hi,

I have a p38 and just recently there was a little click when I pushed the brake peddle, then the brakes worked. id di this a few times, but not every time.

Yesterday I pushed the brake peddle and nothing, it was really lose.
pumped it and they immediately started working again.
Was a bit of a shock, I can tell you.

So took it to the village garage, he stuck it on diagnostics and said that I need a new brake master cylider (modulator). the big lump at the back he told me. I am a bit think, so he keeps it simple.

Sounds very expensive, more that the cars worth LOL.

Hi
I've been living with this kind of problem for months and have been working my way round the system trying to ID the fault : I have renewed accumulator, bled brakes, replace ABS pressure Switch , replaced relays.....still have the problem but what I have found is that if I take an earth to the BY wire on the Pressure Switch that the pump runs. I therefore know that the pump itself is not defective. I have rigged up a manual press switch which enables me to fire up the pump.
I suggest you find out if your actual pump is actually deceased before you lash out serious money on a new one.
Click to expand...
 
repair kit available for it, sounds like the washers have broken up
bought mine from a guy either in Australia or new Zealand
 
Last edited:
I've gone over this earlier:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/twang-81763.html

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/brake-abs-tcs-lights-trifecta-103920.html

If you follow fanatic's link you'll see the solution was developed by a guy in Aus but Rover Renovations in the US resells for them and theoretically have a better distribution set-up to make the ordering and getting a bit easier. That said, I've been having a bit of trouble with them lately so don't consider this an endorsement...

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/rover-renovations-110367.html

Edit:

Sorry Black.. forgot to reply to you. I get my accumulators from a local parts stockist I'm afraid. He sources directly from Britpart. Its not a Britpart part though, its a genuine WABCO who were the OE manufacturer.
 
Last edited:
I get a click with mine but there is always (touch wood) plenty of braking behind the click. Having looked at my disks the have trenches rather than grooves warn in them but the garage says they have a few miles left on them yet but that they will need doing fairly soon. Would very warn disks create that slight resistance and a click or could I be staring down the barrel of something more nasty? As I say, the brakes work well and I've tried emergency stops at 70 on quiet country tracks. The brakes are probably next on the To-do list but just wondered if they are a likely culprit before I have them done.
 
Happy Pappy said:
I get a click with mine but there is always (touch wood) plenty of braking behind the click. Having looked at my disks the have trenches rather than grooves warn in them but the garage says they have a few miles left on them yet but that they will need doing fairly soon. Would very warn disks create that slight resistance and a click or could I be staring down the barrel of something more nasty? As I say, the brakes work well and I've tried emergency stops at 70 on quiet country tracks. The brakes are probably next on the To-do list but just wondered if they are a likely culprit before I have them done.
Click to expand...

If they're that badly scored I'd get cracking on that To-do list pretty sharp and I'd bet your pads will be fairly worn too.

A few people I know have taken the discs to have them turned, basically ground smooth on a lathe. Its really just a short term solution and only if after the process you still have the minimum required thickness (someone will come along and tell you what that is).
 
rasheed said:
If they're that badly scored I'd get cracking on that To-do list pretty sharp and I'd bet your pads will be fairly worn too.

A few people I know have taken the discs to have them turned, basically ground smooth on a lathe. Its really just a short term solution and only if after the process you still have the minimum required thickness (someone will come along and tell you what that is).
Click to expand...

Minimum required thickness on Range Rover front discs is 22mm. They start life at around 25mm There should be a 1.5mm chamfer on inside and outside edge of disc. When this can no longer be seen the disc should be replaced. Or in old money start at 1" and replaceable when down to 7/8".
 
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