brake light problem

S

Splitpin

Guest

• Jan 18, 2006

• #1

Hi all.
I have got a (new to me) series 2A and am in the process of getting
it ready for an MOT.
BUT the brake lights just won't work
It has got a negative earth.
I have checked the brake light switch and there is 12volts coming out every
time you press the brake.OK
I have rewired the lights and checked them by running a wire from the
battery to the new wiring.OK
But when i put the two together Bugger all happens.
I ran a new wire from the brake switch to the rear and tested it so i know
there is 12 volts there, it just won't work

If there is any one out there who has any ideas, i would be very grateful as
i am fast losing my hair

Thanks

Dave series 2A 1963

 

B

beamendsltd

Guest

• Jan 18, 2006

• #2

In message <[email protected]>
"Splitpin" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Hi all.
> I have got a (new to me) series 2A and am in the process of getting
> it ready for an MOT.
> BUT the brake lights just won't work
> It has got a negative earth.
> I have checked the brake light switch and there is 12volts coming out every
> time you press the brake.OK
> I have rewired the lights and checked them by running a wire from the
> battery to the new wiring.OK
> But when i put the two together Bugger all happens.
> I ran a new wire from the brake switch to the rear and tested it so i know
> there is 12 volts there, it just won't work
>
> If there is any one out there who has any ideas, i would be very grateful as
> i am fast losing my hair
>
> Thanks
>
> Dave series 2A 1963
>
>
This may sound a bit daft - but have you got +ve & -ve the right way
round to the lights, i.e. is 12V going to the pointy bit of the bulb?

Richard

--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Boycott the Yorkshire Dales - No Play, No Pay

 

S

Splitpin

Guest

• Jan 18, 2006

• #3

yes it is the right way round.
the rear lights work fine when the head lights are switched on


"beamendsltd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:2e33feb4d%[email protected]...
> In message <[email protected]>
> "Splitpin" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Hi all.
> > I have got a (new to me) series 2A and am in the process of
getting
> > it ready for an MOT.
> > BUT the brake lights just won't work
> > It has got a negative earth.
> > I have checked the brake light switch and there is 12volts coming out
every
> > time you press the brake.OK
> > I have rewired the lights and checked them by running a wire from the
> > battery to the new wiring.OK
> > But when i put the two together Bugger all happens.
> > I ran a new wire from the brake switch to the rear and tested it so i
know
> > there is 12 volts there, it just won't work
> >
> > If there is any one out there who has any ideas, i would be very
grateful as
> > i am fast losing my hair
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Dave series 2A 1963
> >
> >
> This may sound a bit daft - but have you got +ve & -ve the right way
> round to the lights, i.e. is 12V going to the pointy bit of the bulb?
>
> Richard
>
> --
> www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
> Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
> Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
> Boycott the Yorkshire Dales - No Play, No Pay

 

J

Jeff

Guest

• Jan 18, 2006

• #4

Does 12V still come out of the switch when it is connected to the lights?
It could be that the switch has a high contact resistance,(or somewhere else
in the wiring before the switch). 12V would be there with no load, but when
the lamps are connected the 12V drops away.

Regards
Jeff

 

S

Splitpin

Guest

• Jan 18, 2006

• #5

I don't Know yet as i am at work at the moment .
I will go and check during teabreak and get back to you.


"Jeff" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Does 12V still come out of the switch when it is connected to the lights?
> It could be that the switch has a high contact resistance,(or somewhere
else
> in the wiring before the switch). 12V would be there with no load, but
when
> the lamps are connected the 12V drops away.
>
> Regards
> Jeff
>
>
>

 

R

Roberts

Guest

• Jan 18, 2006

• #6

This might sound silly but is this 2A ex military? The military ones can
have a variety of switches to cut out the lights and/or stop lights for use
when driving in convoy. They then only use a small light shining on the rear
diff which should be painted white. I've seen many people caught out by this
including those that should knoiw better.
Alan

 

S

Splitpin

Guest

• Jan 18, 2006

• #7

just tried connecting wire from switch to rearlights while using tester and
voltage dorpped to 0.also tried putting a feed straight from battery to
switch and it did the same but when i put new feed straight to brake lights
they came straight on.


"Splitpin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I don't Know yet as i am at work at the moment .
> I will go and check during teabreak and get back to you.
>
>
> "Jeff" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Does 12V still come out of the switch when it is connected to the
lights?
> > It could be that the switch has a high contact resistance,(or somewhere
> else
> > in the wiring before the switch). 12V would be there with no load, but
> when
> > the lamps are connected the 12V drops away.
> >
> > Regards
> > Jeff
> >
> >
> >
>
>

 

W

[email protected]

Guest

• Jan 18, 2006

• #8

Splitpin wrote:

> I ran a new wire from the brake switch to the rear and tested it so i know
> there is 12 volts there, it just won't work
>
> If there is any one out there who has any ideas, i would be very grateful as
> i am fast losing my hair

First let me check:

You have tested the in situ switch with a bulb (not a meter, you want
to check that it can carry enough current) and that works?

Then you have done the same (tested with a bulb) at the back with the
wire from the brake switch?

Add another wire back to the battery for the time being to get it
working then spend some time later and convert to negative earth
cleaning all connections as you go.

Regards

William MacLeod

 

W

[email protected]

Guest

• Jan 18, 2006

• #9

> just tried connecting wire from switch to rearlights while using tester and
> voltage dorpped to 0.also tried putting a feed straight from battery to
> switch and it did the same but when i put new feed straight to brake lights
> they came straight on.

So you switch isn't allowing enough current to flow? Take the wires
off the switch and short them together, if the lights come on you need
a new switch and can forget messing with wires

Regards

William MacLeod

 

J

Jeff

Guest

• Jan 18, 2006

• #10

> just tried connecting wire from switch to rearlights while using tester
> and
> voltage dorpped to 0.also tried putting a feed straight from battery to
> switch and it did the same but when i put new feed straight to brake
> lights
> they came straight on.
>

If am understand correctly what you have done, I seems to point to the
switch having a high resistance.

With all the wiring on place, try shorting across the contact of the switch
and seeing if the lights work correctly (or join the 2 wires to the switch
together)

Regards
Jeff

 

S

Splitpin

Guest

• Jan 18, 2006

• #11

Hi again
when i shorted the two wires on either side of the switch it
did light the lights.
So i havejust ordered a new switch through Joe Edwards and it should be here
tomorrow.
Thanks for all help

"Jeff" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > just tried connecting wire from switch to rearlights while using tester
> > and
> > voltage dorpped to 0.also tried putting a feed straight from battery to
> > switch and it did the same but when i put new feed straight to brake
> > lights
> > they came straight on.
> >
>
> If am understand correctly what you have done, I seems to point to the
> switch having a high resistance.
>
> With all the wiring on place, try shorting across the contact of the
switch
> and seeing if the lights work correctly (or join the 2 wires to the switch
> together)
>
> Regards
> Jeff
>
>

 

T

Tom Woods

Guest

• Jan 18, 2006

• #12

On Wed, 18 Jan 2006 13:41:51 +0000 (UTC), "Splitpin"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Hi again
> when i shorted the two wires on either side of the switch it
>did light the lights.
>So i havejust ordered a new switch through Joe Edwards and it should be here
>tomorrow.

It a bit late now, but if your 2A had one of the pressure switches
that is built into the brake pipe junction its a much easier job to
replace it with a series 3 switch (which is simply a button that the
pedal hits)
Replacing the 2A switch involves bleeding the brakes wheras fitting a
S3 one instead doesnt (and they were cheaper when i did it)