Brake Disc Question

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oos_ya_daddy

oos_ya_daddy

Active Member
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146
Going to replace my rear discs n pads tonight. The Haynes says that I need some kind of meter to measure to end free play when I put the bearing n all back in ? Is this strictly necissary or can I just keep testing by rocking the tyre to get them nice n snug ? I assume that will tighten the bearings ?

Furthermore. How easy is it to get the bearing out of the back of the disc and back in again ?

Any other tips on the job would be greatly apprciated, Ive changed discs before, but this is a lot more involved than on my 2 wheel dive car. I think it is bordering on the edge of my capabilities but.... There is only one way to learn right ?

Oh, and is it ok to top up the brake fluid with tea ? Its the same colour and consistency as what's in there allready ?
 
The correct way to adjust wheel bearings and tighten hub nuts (taken from the Official Land Rover workshop manual for Disco 1) -
Tighten the inner hub nut to 65Nm and spin the hub to settle the bearings.
Back off the inner hub nut 1/2 a turn and re-tighten to 4Nm.
Fit the tab washer.
Fit the outer hub nut and tighten to 65Nm, without allowing the inner nut to move.
Bend the tab washer over both nuts.
Simple.

I've got a 52mm 3/4" drive socket, which I use with a combination of reducers and my 1/2" and 1/4" drive torque wrenches to do the above.
 
I recently did mine and it wasn't that hard.. I've never done discs on any car and i think this was a tough one to start with from what I have read..

Following lots of advice I used a box spanner to get the hubs back on..you wont get the hubs tightened with the tyre on btw... as it is done before you put the 1/2 shaft on... did the first 52mm hub nut up tight then loosened off and tightened to hand tight.. popped in the locking washer and tightened the next nut onto it just hand tight again then pressed the tabs in and out on the lock washer..

splitting the disk from the hub one side just lifted off once I had the nuts off.. used a bench for that but to hold the hub still by the wheel studs and it wasn't too bad with a 12" bar.. the other side was a git and ended up using a number 1 special tool on that - still only needed a gentle tap top and bottom to free it though

one set of bearings falls out when you remove the hub along with the big spacer washer thing.. the other set is held in firmly by the gasket and it just floats inside while you are working.. I gave the whole hubs a good bath and re greased the bearings - using a pump for the set that stayed in the hubs.. really satisfying spinning the wheel before the half shaft and calipers went on and it spun freely and silently..

you need to use a long bar or something in the studs braced to the ground - I used the bottle jack handle - when you undo the five bolts that hold the axle on and when you do them up...

A little tip - compress the pistons with a g clamp before you put the caliper back on.. it's loads easier than trying to do it in situ and you're less likely to put a dink in your lovely new discs...

and another tip.. the locking washer I got from craddocks and it didn't fit.. hand to grind a little off..

and don't forget the new gasket when you put your shafts back on...
 
mjltigger said:
I recently did mine and it wasn't that hard.. I've never done discs on any car and i think this was a tough one to start with from what I have read..

Following lots of advice I used a box spanner to get the hubs back on..you wont get the hubs tightened with the tyre on btw... as it is done before you put the 1/2 shaft on... did the first 52mm hub nut up tight then loosened off and tightened to hand tight.. popped in the locking washer and tightened the next nut onto it just hand tight again then pressed the tabs in and out on the lock washer..

splitting the disk from the hub one side just lifted off once I had the nuts off.. used a bench for that but to hold the hub still by the wheel studs and it wasn't too bad with a 12" bar.. the other side was a git and ended up using a number 1 special tool on that - still only needed a gentle tap top and bottom to free it though

one set of bearings falls out when you remove the hub along with the big spacer washer thing.. the other set is held in firmly by the gasket and it just floats inside while you are working.. I gave the whole hubs a good bath and re greased the bearings - using a pump for the set that stayed in the hubs.. really satisfying spinning the wheel before the half shaft and calipers went on and it spun freely and silently..

you need to use a long bar or something in the studs braced to the ground - I used the bottle jack handle - when you undo the five bolts that hold the axle on and when you do them up...

A little tip - compress the pistons with a g clamp before you put the caliper back on.. it's loads easier than trying to do it in situ and you're less likely to put a dink in your lovely new discs...

and another tip.. the locking washer I got from craddocks and it didn't fit.. hand to grind a little off..

and don't forget the new gasket when you put your shafts back on...
Click to expand...

EEEEK!!!! :eek::eek::eek:

I think your wheels are in danger of falling off.
The outer hub nut should be tight - 65Nm.
 
Great. Doesnt seem too bad then. Ill give it a go and let you know how I get on.

Cheers for the guide !
 
Treworgey 90 said:
EEEEK!!!! :eek::eek::eek:

I think your wheels are in danger of falling off.
The outer hub nut should be tight - 65Nm.
Click to expand...

you're right.. my post was wrong not what I did.. I had the RAVE print out next to me when I did it so we're all good... only thing I did differently was I converted the figs in the rave to equivalent box spanner measurements so:

61nm = pretty tight (rave says 61 rather than the 65 you quoted but not much in it)
4nm = not very tight

and afterwards I tightened the 5 axle bolts on and thought.. oh if that's 65 on the torque wrench then I reckon I overtightened the lock nut on the hubs.. but as it's only the lock nut I reckon it'll be OK

not to mention when I took them off they came off completely by hand as I didn't have a box spanner at the time and they had done at least 12k miles like that with no adverse effects.... not saying there's no chance of an incident after getting it wrong of course I might have been lucky.. but the price of a 52mm socket to go on the torque wrench was extortionate..
 
the bearing nut spanner is about £5 on ebay, mines got a 3/4" sqr fitting for wrench - had to buy a reducer,
otherwise changing rear discs is a piece of **** - apart from thrashing my new hide mallet when I was trying to seperate the old discs from the hub:mil90:
 
couldn't find a socket for under 20 quid.. this is the cheapest I can find now...

LASER SOCKET AIR IMPACT 1/2"D 52MM 2206 on eBay, also, Other Garage Equipment Tools, Garage Equipment Tools, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 02-Apr-09 10:18:04 BST)

of you mean a box spanner then they are as you say round a fiver which is what I paid for mine but I've no idea how you would attach this to a torque wrench..

Land Rover Wheel Bearing Special Hub Nut Box Spanner on eBay, also, Land Rover, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 10-Mar-09 22:42:32 GMT)
 
you will need a multi flat socket, not just a hex, to remove the bolts from the back of the brake disc to swap it.

bolt the hub back to the wheel then lay it on the floor face down, before attacking these bolts. it will make removing them a whole bunch easier! and torque them back up in opposites like you would a road wheel, you want the disc to run as true as possible.
 
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