Brake adjusters

How have people got on with the replacement brake adjusters, supplied by Paddocks in my case?

I have fitted one side without problem. The other side went wrong in that the splines spin inside the hole, thus rendering it useless. Now sorted with another, but I can see the splines stripping in the future on these. The original uses a square hole and peg... which is suitably strong. Has anyone found better?

I guess welding the end might be the answer...

cheers

That set you have looks pretty rubbish, could try a bearmach set. Were splined like yours but worked ok.

iirc the snail cam is much softer than the hardened splined shaft and when assembled as the inventor intended it all pulls together and the splines cut into the cam as it does on my s11a 88
its the post that they bear against that caused me a load of grief,
atb
ryn
@sunny west cornwall

I fitted some of the aftermarket ones, worked OK and fixed my problem that the shaft was worn, BUT, when the instructions say "may need grinding to fit" what it should say is don't even bother trying to fit the shoes until you've ground half the head off.

rob1miles said:

I fitted some of the aftermarket ones, worked OK and fixed my problem that the shaft was worn, BUT, when the instructions say "may need grinding to fit" what it should say is don't even bother trying to fit the shoes until you've ground half the head off.

Click to expand...

you have reminded me that it was the same on mine,
i bought a £10ish 12v cordless dremel type tool from lydl which was a great help around the brakes etc,

Thanks both. What needed to be ground?

what I’ve noticed on the front ones, after fitting new shoes and drums, is that they’re very tight even with the adjuster backed right off. Can a little be taken off the shoe lug that fits into the cylinder to give a little?

The head of the bolt hits the brake shoe and pushes it out so its tipped a bit and hits the drum. You have to grind the head down until it doesn't touch the shoes.

Ah, I see. That makes sense... thanks

there are 2 different size cams,i thought they are cheap enough to buy a few of each,i was glad i did.
i dont think you have to grind any metal off the shoes, chamfering the linings combined with centering the shoes/drums by hitting with a rubber mallet got mine wheels spinning freely,
they work well when set up right,mine stops on a sixpence in a straight line

Fitted full sets of these on my 109 with no grinding needed, but I do remember them rubbing on the shoes until I tightened them up even more.

Edit to add, I also removed the paint behind where they bolt up, just for a little bit more clearance.