boot full of water, whats the best way to dry it it out?

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luckymark

Active Member
Posts
227
Location
new malden, surrey
I thought that i had got this sussed out , but i'm still getting water in the spare wheel well, is there any way to get the air con on but still have heat at the vents, i,m scrapping more ice off the inside of the glass than i am on the outside, now the weathers turned cold, i want to get as much moisture as possible out of the air before i start to have becm etc problems:(:(:(
 
Get your self a de - humidifier and leave it turned on in boot overnight
And find how its getting in.
Usualy the light seals leak but tailgate rubbers have been known to fail
 
There's a TSB about the tailgate lip and bending it out slightly to stop water leaking in around the seal. I'm on my phone at the moment so dont have the actual TSB to hand sorry. I found a small swimming pool in the wheel well on mine, so drilled a 3mm hole in each of the plugs at the bottom of the wheel well. It may not stop the water getting in, but at least it drains back out again now!!
 
There are a couple of leak points. Look in, Technical service Bulletins for cures. Main leak point is seal where tails gates meet. Other is lower tailgate hinges.
 
Mine is full of rainwater yet again too.:doh:
I have decided where the leak is and it is where the main tailgate seal is old and has flattened in each top corner.
Also, I followed the TSB and bent the lip out 5mm, but no change. I have not replaced the seal yet, but I think it is shot around the flattened areas.
 
Mine is full of rainwater yet again too.:doh:
I have decided where the leak is and it is where the main tailgate seal is old and has flattened in each top corner.
Also, I followed the TSB and bent the lip out 5mm, but no change. I have not replaced the seal yet, but I think it is shot around the flattened areas.
I found a smear of silicone grease on the seal finished the job after I had done the lip adjustment.
 
Remove seal from each side of tailgate aperture. Bend seal mounting flange out 5 mm along it's length. In particular where tail gates meet. Make sure lip is dry and fit a strip of suitably wide gas tape over and down each side of flange for seal to grip. Squeeze seal lips back together before refitting and run a small bead of silicone sealant into gap in seal where it goes over flange. Refit seal from top downwards snugging down as you go with a flat piece of wood and a small hammer.
 
Remove seal from each side of tailgate aperture. Bend seal mounting flange out 5 mm along it's length. In particular where tail gates meet. Make sure lip is dry and fit a strip of suitably wide gas tape over and down each side of flange for seal to grip. Squeeze seal lips back together before refitting and run a small bead of silicone sealant into gap in seal where it goes over flange. Refit seal from top downwards snugging down as you go with a flat piece of wood and a small hammer.

When you say gas tape, I take it your on about the PTFE type tape?
 
Remove seal from each side of tailgate aperture. Bend seal mounting flange out 5 mm along it's length. In particular where tail gates meet. Make sure lip is dry and fit a strip of suitably wide gas tape over and down each side of flange for seal to grip. Squeeze seal lips back together before refitting and run a small bead of silicone sealant into gap in seal where it goes over flange. Refit seal from top downwards snugging down as you go with a flat piece of wood and a small hammer.

By bending it out I believe it means bending the flange towards the exterior and not the interior of the car. But is this supposed around the entire aperture?
It seems to play a little havoc around the gas struts which causes the upper tailgate to not always want to close.
 
When you say gas tape, I take it your on about the PTFE type tape?

No gas tape, duct tape to you. Used to cover copper pipes that are going to be rendered over to stop cement acid eating through the pipes. Very much needed with the totally ****e poor quality copper pipe there is around today. :D
 
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