Boot floor

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janderson41 said:
I bought a Jap Import Disco 1 in Dec 2004.
Rust is not a problem.
However after a few years I checked out the boot floor and found the foam backing absolutely soaking wet. Took 3 days to dry out.
Fortunately the floor was ok but the access plate to the tank was rusty and wet. Cleaned up the access plate and when I put it back I covered it with an old complete newspaper to soak up the condensation which I am convinced causes the wet in the floor. Checked the newspaper every 6-8 weeks for the last 5 years and boot floor and foam backing 100% dry.
Bit of a long story, guys, but think about it and try it out.

Jim A
-----------------------------------------
2002 Disco 2 auto
1996 300 Tdi auto now gone after 9 years.
Click to expand...


Hi Jim, every time I get another TDi the first thing I do is to remove the boot carpet and sponge, to check the boot floor.

Once I'm satisfied that it's ok I put a piece of ply in the back with the carpet on top (just for the look). I use the plywood because it lies on top on the channels in the boot floor allowing for ventilation.

I haven't found any difference in NVH without the 'sponge' being in place and I also reckon that it is the cause of all the rotted floors.


Dave
 
brettguise said:
I like that that's what I'm planning to do with mine, what did you use to build the lip back up that the Ali sits on? I see yours was quite rotten like mine lol.
Click to expand...

Hi BG, if you go to YRM Metals site, you'll see that you can buy the stepped side pieces just as rail, so it's nice and cheap.

Dave
 
DiscoNickY said:
..
Click to expand...

Hi DN, that looks very smart I just have one question: how did you avoid steel to ally contact?


Also just a small suggestion, but when taking pics for posting on the web you might find it easier and quicker if you reduce the picture size on the camera, this will make uploading and downloading much quicker. You can do this via the cameras settings.
 
thebiglad said:
Hi BG, if you go to YRM Metals site, you'll see that you can buy the stepped side pieces just as rail, so it's nice and cheap.

Dave
Click to expand...


How did you weld it in place, did you cut a straight line down the old one and butt weld it together or did you cut the rot out put the channel on top of what's left of the existing one and weld it on top?
 
brettguise said:
How did you weld it in place, did you cut a straight line down the old one and butt weld it together or did you cut the rot out put the channel on top of what's left of the existing one and weld it on top?
Click to expand...

When I did ours I cut the shelves off that were rotted, the sides were OK so I bedded them on special sealant glue and pop-rivetted the new shelves in place and then fixed the new floor to the shelves and cross-members using the same method. Made for a very nice finish even though I say it myself.

Never had any problems with the CT (french mot).


Dave
 
thebiglad said:
When I did ours I cut the shelves off that were rotted, the sides were OK so I bedded them on special sealant glue and pop-rivetted the new shelves in place and then fixed the new floor to the shelves and cross-members using the same method. Made for a very nice finish even though I say it myself.

Never had any problems with the CT (french mot).


Dave
Click to expand...

That should get it through the mot in the UK as well as the boot floor isn't structural the side pieces aren't next to a body mount or seat belt mount so should go through. Do you have a picture of the side and boot floor join please?
 
brettguise said:
That should get it through the mot in the UK as well as the boot floor isn't structural the side pieces aren't next to a body mount or seat belt mount so should go through. Do you have a picture of the side and boot floor join please?
Click to expand...

Hi BG, here's an article I wrote when I did mine, hope it helps. I didn't use the YRM solution as I didn't know they existed, at the time:

Land Rover UK Forums


Dave
 
I'm a fabricator welder by trade so steel is easily accessible. I bend new 'z' angle to go around all sides as was completely rotten and fully welded it in. Then cut Ali plate to size and ran a nice far brad of tiger seal all the way round then pop rivet big hefty Ali rivets every 3" all the way round. It's absolutely solid. I've been in the back with my very hypo 4 year old an 12stone bull mastiff jumping all over it and it's very solid.
 
It's a lot quiter with the Ali aswel. It's 6mm thick and much more dense than original floor. Plus looks great. Ha. Deciding whether to go all out with a load of sound proofing but that will hide the nice shiny new floor...
 

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DiscoNickY said:
It's a lot quiter with the Ali aswel. It's 6mm thick and much more dense than original floor. Plus looks great. Ha. Deciding whether to go all out with a load of sound proofing but that will hide the nice shiny new floor...
Click to expand...


mmmmmmm shiny.....:D Nice job. Is there any issue with ally and steel doing this?
 
DiscoNickY said:
The two metals don't actually touch there is a thick bead of tiger seal all the way around between the two. Even so I'm sure the old girl will be on the scrap heap long before anything degrades...
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yeah matey ;)

i saw your pics and thought there wouldn't be a problem :)
 
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