Boot floor how hard to do

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rkj

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Hi all i have just got my first disco its a 300 tdi xs altho the chassie is sound the boot floor is knackerd . Is this somethink for a fairly good diy mechanic to attempt or should this be left for some one who knows what there doing.
 
It's not too bad, did mine ok. Cutting it out is the worst part, once you get back to good steel you can see what to do, I had to remove the side supports too and replaced these with z-strips from eBay, plus new cross supports. I used adhesive/sealant and rivets to refit my floor but many will argue it should be welded, choice is yours.

Paint the chassis while the floor is out.

Angle grinder and super thin cutting discs are your friend for removal, plus crowbar and hammer / chisel. Watch out for fuel pipes ontop of chassis rail and if drilling spot welds out, remove the fuel tank or be double careful along back door sill not to drill tank like I did.
 
first question.. do you own a MIG welder? do you know how to weld?

if the answer to these is no....

then you cant do it.


If the answer is yes.... its dead easy to do.
 
I just cut the rot out with grinder ,painted the old floor and stuck the new floor on top of old. Job done. You have to treat these old things with the contempt they deserve :D
 
when i did it on the old 300tdi that i did up to sell, it was easy, no welding at all,
drilled out all spot welds, it peeled away great, painted and rustproffed all under the floor, sealed new edge and riveted it all down, painted and job done, besides mig welder no good on disco's, you cannot weld rust to rust!! you need oxy acet for a landrover, then again half the mechanics nowadays cannot gas weld,
the answer is you can do it yourself!
 
Thanx For all the advice i have a welder but have only done very small jobs with it il order the new parts tomorow and maybe have a look over the weekend
 
rear floor item no 220688693012, to do the rest you might be better off with some tsteel plate and form your own to patch what is needed, then tack into place bend to suit and finally weld up, or rivet, then underseal
 
I had to cut right back into the surrounding area to find solid steel, made repair sections out of 1mm steel plate. I plug welded these onto the solid steel, then welded the crossmembers onto these sections. The two thin 'straps' which complement the cross members had completely rotted so I replaced them with some rectangular box section.

Once all this was in I sat the floor on top, plug welded it to the cross members and then seam welded around the edges - feels solid.

Ben
 
the last 2 floors i did i used no weld atall, cut out the old floors completly to the lips cleaned and treated then bonded with tigerseal (more or less the same stuff windscreen fitters use, windscreens are actualy part of the strength of a vehicle and are definatly not welded so should hold a floor in that isnt really structural, even though an MoTer will fail it on being structural it should be failed because its within 12" of somthing structural or seatbelt mounts)

nomatter how much treating and undersealing you will not most of the time cover every piece of bare metal especialy were you weld and most new "pattern" parts will rust through again within 18 months, making it a pointless job....
 
RKServicing said:
the last 2 floors i did i used no weld atall, cut out the old floors completly to the lips cleaned and treated then bonded with tigerseal (more or less the same stuff windscreen fitters use, windscreens are actualy part of the strength of a vehicle and are definatly not welded so should hold a floor in that isnt really structural, even though an MoTer will fail it on being structural it should be failed because its within 12" of somthing structural or seatbelt mounts)

nomatter how much treating and undersealing you will not most of the time cover every piece of bare metal especialy were you weld and most new "pattern" parts will rust through again within 18 months, making it a pointless job....
Click to expand...

How did you attach the floor to the support bars?
 
davek0974 said:
It's not too bad, did mine ok. Cutting it out is the worst part, once you get back to good steel you can see what to do, I had to remove the side supports too and replaced these with z-strips from eBay, plus new cross supports. I used adhesive/sealant and rivets to refit my floor but many will argue it should be welded, choice is yours.

Paint the chassis while the floor is out.

Angle grinder and super thin cutting discs are your friend for removal, plus crowbar and hammer / chisel. Watch out for fuel pipes ontop of chassis rail and if drilling spot welds out, remove the fuel tank or be double careful along back door sill not to drill tank like I did.
Click to expand...

Hi dave, ive just pulled my boot floor out and the side supports on mine are shagged too. Dont suppose you have a link for those z strips on ebay do you mate? I cant find anything on there that matches, the search on my phone is shiiite. Also, did you remove the fuel tank to get better access to paint the chassis?? If so, is it easy to do?
 
jonny mac said:
Hi dave, ive just pulled my boot floor out and the side supports on mine are shagged too. Dont suppose you have a link for those z strips on ebay do you mate? I cant find anything on there that matches, the search on my phone is shiiite. Also, did you remove the fuel tank to get better access to paint the chassis?? If so, is it easy to do?
Click to expand...

Item 220774731702 for the cross bars, I can't find the z strips at present but they were from the same company. There are lots of oem crossbars n eBay as well at present too.

I didn't take the tank out until I realised I had drilled three holes in it along the rear door area! It certainly made a mess when I filled up, also meant I had to find enough cans and drums to drain a full tank into!

Dropping the tank means undoing the tow bar supports, fill and vent pipes, anti roll bar supports, then either removing the fuel pipes from the sender unit or as I did, removing the tank and leaving the sender dangling but this makes it harder to drop the tank and needs two people. Get a trolley jack under the support plate, undo bolts and lower the tank, it needs to go down then towards the passenger side then down and out, it's quite heavy even when empty. Much more can be painted with it out of the way. Probably worth draining the sedimenter and also check the brake flex hoses etc while your in there:)

Here's my efforts...
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/boot-floor-replacement-beginners-120973.html
 
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