Blown head gasket?

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damlimey

New Member
Hi all,

I'm probably here just to get someone to confirm what I'm already thinking but...

Last week, radiator split top right hand bit of molding, apparently this isn't uncommon over time as it's a bit of a weak spot. Garage does a 'sniff test' to check the head gasket not leaking etc, all seems good.

Anyway, replaced radiator, and drive up to London where I sit in traffic on the M3 watching the temp guage creep up to the red zone in no time.

Check viscous fan coupling which all seems to be working fine so back to mechanic who thinks thermostat and replaces it. Good to go...

Climbing up a hill yesterday and sure enough, temp guage into red, engine slows to nothing and bonnet up again.

So, it's the head gasket isn't it? Anyone know of anything else it might be?

New rad, fan is a year old, pump is a year old and new thermostat...

Off with it's head eh?

D
 
Hi all,

I'm probably here just to get someone to confirm what I'm already thinking but...

Last week, radiator split top right hand bit of molding, apparently this isn't uncommon over time as it's a bit of a weak spot. Garage does a 'sniff test' to check the head gasket not leaking etc, all seems good.

Anyway, replaced radiator, and drive up to London where I sit in traffic on the M3 watching the temp guage creep up to the red zone in no time.

Check viscous fan coupling which all seems to be working fine so back to mechanic who thinks thermostat and replaces it. Good to go...

Climbing up a hill yesterday and sure enough, temp guage into red, engine slows to nothing and bonnet up again.

So, it's the head gasket isn't it? Anyone know of anything else it might be?

New rad, fan is a year old, pump is a year old and new thermostat...

Off with it's head eh?

D

Depending on the parts used just because they're a year old doesn't mean they aren't knackered. Cheap parts dont work in the cooling system new or not.

Next test is when up to operating temps feel the bottom of the rad to see if its cold. If it is then baffles are broken and its not transferring heat properly - new rad.

Pump may also be knackered if a cheap one fitted. Plastic ones dont have a great lifespan and it varies from a few days to a few years. Metal pumps which are an aftermarket alternative seem to hold better.

Possible air lock when refilling the coolant. Procedure in RAVE.

If it is your head gasket look for fluid dripping down the block, water in oil, oil in water etc to help you confirm.
 
When the head gasket went on mine.
The top hose blew up like a balloon.
Had no sign sign of oil in the water either in the
expansion tank or on the dipstick. and it towed my van
back 70miles without overheating.
 
So, as Aerofabrique suggested, I won't trust recently replaced components and I went through the air block procedure, it all seems to be doing what it should but as it began to overheat, I checked the viscous fan. It was spinning but not as fast as it did when the engine was started. I expected it to be spinning like mad so I waited for it to pick up but it didn't and then I got an old newspaper, rolled it up and gently pocked it into the fan which promptly stopped with no resistance.

Fan then. The garage did say they had a job getting it out so maybe it was damaged in the process? Pretty confident that's the issue now, no oil in the water, no water in the oil, pump flow seems healthy etc.

Ta,
D
 
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Fan then. The garage did say they had a job getting it out so maybe it was damaged in the process? Pretty confident that's the issue now, no oil in the water, no water in the oil, pump flow seems healthy etc.

Ta,
D

Replace the viscous coupling with an OE or quality after-market one, Britpart VCs have been known to fail spectacularly usually taking the rad with them.
 
Make sure the new rad has a baffle in the top tank. The BMWs have a strange system were the water enters at the top and flows down one side and up the other to exit at the other side top again. If the baffle is not there water will just flow along the top of the rad and never through it. Make sure the bottom of the rad is getting as hot as the top. To work the viscous fan needs hot air passing over it. If the rad has no baffle and the lower portion of the rad is not getting hot, no hot air is flowing over the viscous fan so it will not lock up. This will manifest itself in slow traffic. Or if all else is well the viscous fan could just be knackered. Follow the test procedure in my how to at top of page.
 
Dont f about with a kenlowe or the expense. I assume yours is diesel due to the singular "head gasket."

Just get the cooling system working in top condition with good parts and this will suffice. You can PM Datatek and he may offer you a mod to use the AC fans to use instead of or as well as viscous.

Johnny at the garage probably damaged it last time when they removed it as it has opposite hand thread. Do check rad as well as Wammers said.
 
Nah kenlowes not worth it, spend the money on good quality parts for the cooling system. Lots of owners on here with P38s with high mileages with all oem parts still going strong.
 
cooling system.
OEM Rad
Land Rover thermostat and test before you fit
Remove fan and do data mod

all will be fine..
 
Okay, first of all thanks wammaers, where do I find your 'how to'? but also...

What about fitting a Kenlowe instead? Anyone done that here?

D

I have a 17" Kenlowe and a new condenser to fit on mine. Have just never got round to it. Had a system to use aircon fans fitted to mine when i bought it, but it went tits up so took it all out. I believe Datas system is pretty simple to sort though.
 
Hi Data, could you please PM me the AC fan mod (assuming it's applicable to the petrol) I'm going to go off road (properly) in a few weeks' time and would like the fail-safe on cooling for peace of mind! Ta.
 
Hi Data, could you please PM me the AC fan mod (assuming it's applicable to the petrol) I'm going to go off road (properly) in a few weeks' time and would like the fail-safe on cooling for peace of mind! Ta.

PM me with an email address. It is only suitable as back up to the viscous on the V8, but a useful safety feature.:)
 
V8 already has this feature built in. Aircon fans come on to assist viscous at times of high engine load.

But it would appear that that does not happen until the temperature is already high and even then they do not always seem to operate, look at the number of V8's that cook when the viscous fails. With the mod you can set the temperature to operate at just above normal temperature as a back up:D.
 
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But it would appear that that does not happen until the temperature is already high and even then they do not always seem to operate, look at the number of V8'2 that cook when the viscous fails. With the mod you can set the temperature to operate at just above normal temperature as a back up:D.

Sounds good! PM sent. :)
 
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