bleedin breaks 2!

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hyland770

hyland770

New Member
Posts
192
Location
Ipswich, Suffolk
right i really need to bleed my breaks on a 1980 series 3, unfortunately the bleed nipple screw is completely rounded and nothing can get a grip on it, i was wondering if i have duel break lines if i bleed the opposite wheel instead, will the air will come out the system? as i definately have air in my lines somewhere.
 
Air will go to the upper most point it can and stay there, so no it will stay at the top of that corner's braking system. If you have lots of time you can remove the braking system and lower it so that the inlet union is near the top of the calliper. The air will move in that direction. If you are then very brave (and the union will move) bleed it by slightly undoing the union, but it's not a great way to do it.

best just to remove the calliper and drill the old bleed nipple out to the small diameter of then thread and then pull the coil of thread out ad put a new bleed nipple in.

Andy
 
hyland770 said:
right i really need to bleed my breaks on a 1980 series 3, unfortunately the bleed nipple screw is completely rounded and nothing can get a grip on it, i was wondering if i have duel break lines if i bleed the opposite wheel instead, will the air will come out the system? as i definately have air in my lines somewhere.
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Dont fook about with brakes, you need to bleed all the hubs, cant you get a pair of vice grips on it. I have had problems getting bleeders out in the past, sometimes they just wont come out, heating is no use it boils the fluid and fooks the seals or blows a flexi off with the gas.

You can try belting it on the head, it shocks it and sometimes it works, it destroys the bleeder, but its fooked anyway, but dont go mad. Dont hit it directly with a hammer, use a short drift and try to hit it square so you dont snap it off. If its awkward take it off into a vice, sometimes the long way is the short way.
 
the only problem is that gettin the wheel cylinder unit out is going to be a problem too, the pipe goin down to the cylinder also has a rounded nut on the end of it so gettin the whole unit off is going to be a pain in the arse too! is there any way of doin it?
 
hyland770 said:
the only problem is that gettin the wheel cylinder unit out is going to be a problem too, the pipe goin down to the cylinder also has a rounded nut on the end of it so gettin the whole unit off is going to be a pain in the arse too! is there any way of doin it?
Click to expand...

If it's a wheel cylinder then you can pop the pistons out and heat it, dont go mad and make sure the pistons go back in the same side, but I'm a mechanic and I know what I am doing.

Best to Invest in a brake pipe flaring tool, the little draper ones are ok,thats what I have, a selection of pipe ends and some brake fluid and change the pipe and cylinder. The cylinder aint expensive and it's going to be a better job.

When I change brake pipes I cut them and put a ring spanner on them, the split spanners aint that much good.
 
right i replaced the cylinder, and re bled the system and still i have to pump the brake twice before the brakes kick in. I was wondering can i bleed the system at the point where the copper brake pipe joins the rubber brake pipe opposite the cyinder? i think this is what brnocz was saying above but thought i should clarify!
 
hyland770 said:
right i replaced the cylinder, and re bled the system and still i have to pump the brake twice before the brakes kick in. I was wondering can i bleed the system at the point where the copper brake pipe joins the rubber brake pipe opposite the cyinder? i think this is what brnocz was saying above but thought i should clarify!
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No, bleed at the bleeders, start from the n/s/r o/s/r n/s/f o/s/f, get somebody to pump up the pedal half a dozen times and then hold it down and tell you, you release the bleeder and he tells you the brake pedal has gone to the floor. He holds it there until you shut off the bleeder and off you go again until no air, then off to the next one.

Also make sure your brakes are adjusted properly.
 
thats the problem the bleeders are all rounded and nothing will grip them thats why i want to know if i can do it from where the copper pipe meets the rubber pipe, this may sound like a daft question but does the brake pedal apply the brakes at the back aswell as the brakes at the front?
 
hyland770 said:
thats the problem the bleeders are all rounded and nothing will grip them thats why i want to know if i can do it from where the copper pipe meets the rubber pipe, this may sound like a daft question but does the brake pedal apply the brakes at the back aswell as the brakes at the front?
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No you cant bled the brakes at the flexes, and yes the pedal works the rear brakes.

I want you to stop what you are doing and read up a bit on brakes before you go any further. Serious stuff.

Then come back on here and start asking questions, plenty on brakes if you google them, but first you need all your bleeders working and the brakes adjusted properly, providing no cylinders are leaking or any other problem that you dont know to check yet.

So start with getting these bleeders working, make sure no cylinders are leaking and they are not siezed, and all the shoes etc are serviceable and adjusted properly.

Why are your brakes poor anyway??
 
there poor becasue i have to push the peddle to the floor twice b4 the breaks start doin anything, the cyinders arent seized i had them both out today and replaced one, it definately seems like theres air in the system, but this bleeder is rounded so i cant turn it to bleed one of the wheels hence the bleeding at flexi question, looks lik enew wheel cylinders are goin to be ordered.
 
I bled and bled my brakes always to no avail. Untill I read(possibly here) to make sure that the adjusters were wound right back minimising the volume in the cylinder. This did the trick. You will have to ensure that all the bleed nipples are in good condition to do this though.
 
With two of my Landy I had the same problem,when you adjust the brakes,make sure the adjuster cant make a 360 without locking the brakes,the pin on which the adjustor rides get worn,then you must pump the brakes twice!
 
hyland770 said:
there poor becasue i have to push the peddle to the floor twice b4 the breaks start doin anything, the cyinders arent seized i had them both out today and replaced one, it definately seems like theres air in the system, but this bleeder is rounded so i cant turn it to bleed one of the wheels hence the bleeding at flexi question, looks lik enew wheel cylinders are goin to be ordered.
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they are poor because something is fooked causing a poor pedal. It's important that you get the bleeders working firstly. If you clamp the brake flexi on the rear it will rule out the rear brakes, and if you do the same on the front, perhaps one at a time it will help determine where to look. With all flexes clamped, and no air in system if it's still **** then the master is away.

I'm assuming that this just happened, and if it did then it's unlikely air in the system, if not then often as everybody says make sure the adjusters are done properly, take them up until the drum locks, give it a bash with a hammer to centre the shoes and if it starts turning again adjust further until it cant turn, then back it off until it just turns freely.
 
im thinking it might be the master cylinder, this started happening when i was at a pay and play day, hadnt checked the level of brak fluid in the resevoir b4 i went and found half way through the day that i hadno brakes, so topped up the resevoir with some brake fluid i had with me and they worked ok, thats how i know there is air in the sytem somewhere just cant find out where! but what makes me think i need a new master cylinder is that when i press the pedal i can hear a hissing noise that wasnt there before so i reckon theres air escaping from the master cylinder and then its causing a loss of pressure on the pedal hence why i have to pump it twice, sound like a feasible idea?
 
Your master cylinder shouldn't have air in it, if you can hear air escaping it is probably from the servo, but the servo works by moving air, so not all air movement is bad. If your fluid went low (and not just by the amount that is caused by shoes and pads moving when operated) then either your master cylinder seals are gone or the seals on the slave cylinders / callipers are gone, so they need to be fixed. Find where fluid is leaking / has leaked from and get that sorted first. You'll have to bleed the brakes fully once that's done you'll end up taking the slave cylinders off to get the bleed nipple out with mole grips, and that solves that bit as well.


Andy
 
BRAKES .... is what stops you. Well they should ...

BREAKS .... is what happens if you hit things too hard with a big hammer.

You can usually get a stuck bleed nipple out by using the 4 ounce pin hammer on it. Tap it fairly gently a few hundred times right on the top like as if you are tapping in a wee panel pin. It will loosen eventually if you have patience.

Remember, there is always time to do a job a second or even third time, even though there wasn't time to be patient and do it right the first time. That's a true fact.

Keep calm .... and leave your really big hammers in the toolbox.

Just a thought. It would be fun to turn up at a smart main stealer's posh showroom with a really filthy and dripping slimy black goo just back from an off-road day, and book it in for a service and valeting!

CharlesY
 
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right well that last bit was random lol, well theres no fluid leakin from the master cylinder so its not that, and the servo is **** anyways so im not worried about that, sounds like i just need to adjust it all properly get a couple of new wheel cylinders and hope that that cures it!
 
hyland770 said:
right well that last bit was random lol, well theres no fluid leakin from the master cylinder so its not that, and the servo is **** anyways so im not worried about that, sounds like i just need to adjust it all properly get a couple of new wheel cylinders and hope that that cures it!
Click to expand...

You do know that the master usually leaks inside the vehicle at the pedal box, not outside, or if its bolted to the servo then you need to take it off and make sure it aint ****ed all the fluid into it. Had this a few times and in the right circumstances the engine can suck the fluid into the engine and you get lovely white smoke stinking of brake fluid.

If your fluid was low then it went somewhere, however dont be confused when in instances when the linings are worn the fluid level can drop, you top it up and then fit new shoes or pads and find it's too full. Thats a different thing.
 
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