BL***y door strikers...Arghhh

First of all discovered my lift up handle doors aren't compatible with later strikers..... not a problem, only other ones I can find are anti burst strikers so splash out on 4 brand new ones thinking I'd solved the problem....

WRONG!!! I now discover there is a third type, a simple pin that was fitted to early 90/110 with lift up handles, and nobody seems to have any second hand to try....

so time to start scouring EBay and if anyone has any and wants a full set of brand new anti burst strikers give me a shout

Landrover why do you test my patience at every possible moment... arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

feel better now

Cheers Steve

My 110 had the pin-types when I got it - and they had a regrettable tendency to pop open unpredictably no matter how well cleaned/adjusted/serviced. Having never seen them before (only seen the anti-burst on S.III and the latch type on my II/IIas) i figured them for some whacko military thing and replaced them.

FWIW, I'd put a crowbar in the wallet, buy the strikers to go with the anti-burst locks and fit them. I will sincerely agree it's not cheap and cheerful but unreliable doors with the family in the car is not something you really want, now is it?

ajr

mrchurchill109 said:

My 110 had the pin-types when I got it - and they had a regrettable tendency to pop open unpredictably no matter how well cleaned/adjusted/serviced. Having never seen them before (only seen the anti-burst on S.III and the latch type on my II/IIas) i figured them for some whacko military thing and replaced them.

FWIW, I'd put a crowbar in the wallet, buy the strikers to go with the anti-burst locks and fit them. I will sincerely agree it's not cheap and cheerful but unreliable doors with the family in the car is not something you really want, now is it?

ajr

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I've bought the anti burst strikers problem is they are not compatible with my handle/locks, I have thought going to antiburst handles but they aren't capable of being used with the internal pull handle and lock mounted half way down the door or the current door cards nothing is ever simple when it comes to Landrover lol

did you change locks to anti-burst?? if so did the key hole line up, looked at the anti burst locks on craddocks and it says doorskin may require drilling but am assuming that is referring to a series with no door lock hole??

Cheers Steve

I went from the pin type to antiburst with no drilling or other buggering about with the door. Door skins should not need mucking about - i've got them on my Series IIA and had to drill there (as the door had no lock at all!) but that should not be the case for you - the pin type and antiburst were fit and function identical.

The door cards - I take it you have the surrounds over the locks? not seeing why those wouldn;t fit if you had the same locks I did.


The only thing you will end up doing is fiddling with the pin mounting - the pins on my truck had plastic surrounds that went around the pins and these had to go (no great loss - all squaddied anyway).

mrchurchill109 said:

I went from the pin type to antiburst with no drilling or other buggering about with the door. Door skins should not need mucking about - i've got them on my Series IIA and had to drill there (as the door had no lock at all!) but that should not be the case for you - the pin type and antiburst were fit and function identical.

The door cards - I take it you have the surrounds over the locks? not seeing why those wouldn;t fit if you had the same locks I did.


The only thing you will end up doing is fiddling with the pin mounting - the pins on my truck had plastic surrounds that went around the pins and these had to go (no great loss - all squaddied anyway).

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my locks have the pull handle and lock flap that is halfway down the door towards the front of the door (look like the same BL pulls they later fitted to range rover classics and TR7's etc) no handle on the inside next to the striker plate,
AFAIK anti bursts come with an inner and outer handle and are not compatible with the pull handle assembly unless anyone can point me in the direction of an anti burst that will allow the rods to connect???

door cards are the ones that have a cut out hole in the centre to suit the forward handle... will try n post a pic later but good to know anti burst should line up if I am forced to junk the pull handle

Cheers Steve

This may work although I can't see flickr on the work pc so all I get are red crosses lol

Forward pull handle.....



Lock with rod attachment points



Door card with hole for forward handle



Cheers Steve

Im following your progress with this Steve as I've just acquired 2 series 3 doors and its a night mare to fathom out which locks and strikers and handles etc will fit to my defender.

Good luck.

Ginge I think I have finally got it all sussed.....

I need the single pin type if I am to retain my forward handles as the door locks I currently have fitted are the only type found with fittings for the pull rods for opening and locking.

Option 2 is to buy 4 x anti burst locks to suit the strikers I have wrongly bought, the locks are far better but mean I will have to junk the forward handle and buy/make suitable door cards

Option 3 is for original series locks with the old style catch, cheap but again door card issues and lose my handles...

Unless of course Landrover did anything else with bits from the lucas scrap bin... lol

Cheers Steve

problem solved and well chuffed.....

found the striker I needed online at a few suppliers.....however.... £48 per pin OE and if I wanted em in a blue box they came down to £28 incl the VAT......

once i'd mopped up the coffee i'd just spat all over the screen at over £100 for 4 britpart or £200 for 4 OE pins I went out to have a think...

looking at the pin on screen it looked very simple... perhaps they were gold plated or delivered on a silk pillow by a supermodel???

however it struck me just how much it looked like a socket cap bolt so dug through a few sizes and believe it or not a high tensile M10 socket cap is an absolute perfect fit... prob better than the real pin and far stronger

I measured up and it turns out an M10 x 100 would just sit right and pass all the way through the B pillar



so I ratchet strapped the two front doors together to pull them tight to the new seals and flush with the B pillar and carefully marked where to drill the pillar.... the drill was an exact match so there is zero adjustment or chance of play on the bolt



I drilled clean through both sides of the B pillar and fitted large washers and M10 nylocs inside and out so I could lock the pin at the correct length, M10 x 100 was just the right length...



If theres half a mm between bolt shank and lock receiver that's all there is, in all the years I've had landys I've never managed to get doors to fit so snugly or securely





as it passes through the b pillar it is a lot stronger than an original pin and I may also add a flat plate welded to the bolt on the inside....... very happy at the saving and the fact its so secure.....

cheers steve

nice. glad you got it sorted and most importantly cheaply and without the help of those hideous parts in blue/white boxes

I need more investigation as I have series doors a defender strikers etc. Its a long term thing anyway.

VERY nice fix! Not sure I'd have gone without some sort of adjustment method but if it works you're good.

What the so-called engineers who designed that door lock setup you have were smoking is a mystery to me. That hack is half RRC parts and half Series, with random bits from a metro thrown in it seems. I take it that design wasn't used long?

I much prefer the S.III setup my ex-MOD truck has. Always hated those locks on my RRCs.

mrchurchill109 said:

VERY nice fix! Not sure I'd have gone without some sort of adjustment method but if it works you're good.

What the so-called engineers who designed that door lock setup you have were smoking is a mystery to me. I take it that design wasn't used long?

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The set up is incredibly rare, only used on the very earliest of 110's and has taken me a few years of watching to find a pair with the split rear tops to suit the fact its a soft top.....

But yep it definately is a BL parts bin..... how complex can we make it after a Friday lunchtime pub session..... I can see why it didnt last long and guess thats why suppliers charge the earth for the pins... I've bought motors for less than suppliers want for the suitable door cards lol

Cheers Steve

Sorry to resurrect an old topic...
I've got a set of 4 of these doors to put on my 110 csw with the handle mid way, and I have 3 strikers out of 4, one has got lost in transit.

Although they are fiercely expensive as I only need one it's probably worth paying the money. Do you happen to still have the part numbers?

sorry this was a few years ago I only found them by accident after a lot of searching, sorry

Cheers Steve

Found it eventually....just in case anyone needs it in the future....
LH Striker plate - MRC8445
RH Striker plate - MRC8444

Current prices on Paddocks are around £18 each....