Bl**dy dangerous

Hi all,

My usually boring commute into work with my 88" series 3 was interupted this morning buy the dashboard bursting into plumes of smoke.

When I eventually got to work it didn't stop when turned off and like a inexperienced landie own my toolbox was at home

Several stressfull minutes of running about for tools and finally managed to get the dash front off and found the headlight switch (which was only fitted 3 or so weeks ago had died and had bust inside shorting itself out.

Has anybody else encountered problems with this part?

Also I've fitted my old switch again but now have either side lights or headlights. Is the the old switch broken or damage to vehicle wiring?

Was it a genuine part of a 'blue box' replacement?

I have seen other people saying britpart new switches didn't last long, sounds like the old switch is faulty, but I would check the wiring anyway after something like that happened

It's not stamped or marked with any branding. Little worrying as it was bought from a local well know and reputable land rover parts shop :s.

Just had another glance behind the dash and noticed a little melted plastic on the connector to the heater blower also.

Might this be more than a faulty part?

Hopefully the fuses will have blown, which is why your lights don' t work

I'll take a look in a bit. It still stinks of smoke!

Shouldn't the fuses have blown beforehand which would have prevented the smoky cab?

Any ideas why this didn't happen? All the fuses are in place (no bolts or funny business)

I wouldn't worry too much, often you can knock/push a dry solder joint and it will start smoking..I have had it on the car and dived out on the motorway with plumes of smoke for it to just be a dry indicator joint..and no fuses went. Definitely find out whats going on.... But you will just need to get into the wiring and have a look as there could be all manner of botches in there. Any local place will likely have sold you Britpart.. if you paid 25 quid for it.maybe its genuine.. , but if you paid £1.20 I don't think you need to find the blue badge.

If a connection elsewhere is less durable than the fuse it'll go first.

Thanks guys.

Does anybody out there do a reasonably priced wiring loom/harness.

My ebay switch lasted 20 minutes on its first outing. Went back to the old one.
I now have very fancy illuminated push buttons and relays. When I have a fire its going to be a proper one

Auto sparks is a good place to go. However you won't find cheap and quality in the same product. If you go with quality it'll be cheaper in the long run. Quality wiring harness may cost £200 odd but it to last another 30-40 years. Which makes it dirt cheap.

I've had a wiper switch from a blue box. The internals broke after 3 flicks of the switch. Don't buy cheap for important parts of the vehicle. You'll end up spending more money and time replacing crap cheap parts. By all means cheap can be used on things like a gear stick fairer or door seals. But think how costly it could have been if this switch had set something a light all to save a few quid.

But back to the wiring loom auto sparks will do a custom made loom so if you have extra lighting, extra switches or a different engine they can make a loom with the extra connections so it's near and a factory finish. I've heard good things about them as they are a leader for classic car electrics, apparently.

109inches said:

Auto sparks is a good place to go. However you won't find cheap and quality in the same product. If you go with quality it'll be cheaper in the long run. Quality wiring harness may cost £200 odd but it to last another 30-40 years. Which makes it dirt cheap.

I've had a wiper switch from a blue box. The internals broke after 3 flicks of the switch. Don't buy cheap for important parts of the vehicle. You'll end up spending more money and time replacing crap cheap parts. By all means cheap can be used on things like a gear stick fairer or door seals. But think how costly it could have been if this switch had set something a light all to save a few quid.

But back to the wiring loom auto sparks will do a custom made loom so if you have extra lighting, extra switches or a different engine they can make a loom with the extra connections so it's near and a factory finish. I've heard good things about them as they are a leader for classic car electrics, apparently.

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Thanks 109. I don't think the £200 mark is too bad.

Let's add it to the list!

Bobsickle any pics?

Autosparks definitely!!
I always replace the loom on every car I restore and Autosparks offer a perfect quality replacement in my view

Series 3 normally does not have a fuse in lighting circuit except for flash function.
An earth on the headlight or wiring is most likely cause of the overload on the switch.

next time disconnect the battery first, then look for the problem

bigal89 said:

Thanks 109. I don't think the £200 mark is too bad.

Let's add it to the list!

Bobsickle any pics?

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Getting round to it. Have a look on confessions of a skin flint. Its a post in the series section. Probably page two by now as its a few weeks since I have had the time to play.

Well worth adding a couple of relays - the switch will last much longer!

X1 on the relays. I've just had the same problem. Smoking dashboard n blown light switch. I had an intermittent short circuit. I made the mistake of also putting in a replacement 35 amp fus which allowed too much current to the switch. Changed fuse to 12 amp n OK. The britpart switches are generally reliable, but Lucas original over twice as expensive. The smoking is a result of a short and could lead to a vehicle fire or trash the wiring loom. Have you plugged in a trailer power socket perchance? That's often the culprit.

Thanks w

Bobsticle said:

Getting round to it. Have a look on confessions of a skin flint. Its a post in the series section. Probably page two by now as its a few weeks since I have had the time to play.

Click to expand...

Thanks will do

oxides said:

Well worth adding a couple of relays - the switch will last much longer!

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I've heard this a few time now but which relays do I need to use?

Still print new to this