Bit of a rattle in neutral with clutch out?
- Thread starter TIL110
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henrytilly
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release bearing most prob
Big job? Or something that gets done while replacing clutch?
Gazbo
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Gearbox first motion shaft bearing.
Gazbo
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Unfortunately gearbox out and pretty much a full strip down of the gearbox, not worth having the box out without a rebuild, there will be a fair few worn bits inside, ticking noise can also be cluster shaft bearing or any other one in train with box in neutral.What's involved in changing that?
But depending on if you really need to remove the box, I've had my current 300Tdi D1 for 7 years now and it had "the tick" when I bought it, still going, as Dirty Harry says, "are ya feeling lucky!"
And if you need the gearbox out to do a clutch then good opportunity to fix the tic.
flat
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Can you bRing the clutch up really slowly and gently and stop the noise?
Mine does this and it's the release bearing or some part of the clutch fork rattling slightly,, I fitted a new clutch but lost a retaining clip thing works perfectly. It just has a rattle if I come off the clutch fast in neutral
Mine does this and it's the release bearing or some part of the clutch fork rattling slightly,, I fitted a new clutch but lost a retaining clip thing works perfectly. It just has a rattle if I come off the clutch fast in neutral
If you are changing the clutch it's a good habit to change the release bearing at the same time.
However, I'd be inclined to fit a new or fully reconditioned gearbox and whilst you're at it, change the transfer box and cylinder head gasket at the same time ... and don't forget to renew the rocker arm and tappet screws as they might show some signs of deterioration since new.
Oh, I nearly forgot, you will also be better off replacing the UJ's on the prop shafts, and the axle oil seals, as they have been known to leak after a few years!
Better safe than sorry, so just say sod it, and not go out and buy a full new replacement, as you know that develop at least one fault within the first 25 years of use!!
However, I'd be inclined to fit a new or fully reconditioned gearbox and whilst you're at it, change the transfer box and cylinder head gasket at the same time ... and don't forget to renew the rocker arm and tappet screws as they might show some signs of deterioration since new.
Oh, I nearly forgot, you will also be better off replacing the UJ's on the prop shafts, and the axle oil seals, as they have been known to leak after a few years!
Better safe than sorry, so just say sod it, and not go out and buy a full new replacement, as you know that develop at least one fault within the first 25 years of use!!
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I suspect what our learned friends are saying is, don't worry about it and just keep an eye/ear on it.Jeezzzz....wish I hadn't asked!
