Best wheels for CCTV trials?

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big k

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Hi ,I do ccv trials with 235x85 insa's with disco steelies on the back and modular 7x16's on the front.can anybody advise the best wheels to fit to get the best steering circle with these tyres?always fancied Machs or zu's but quite pricey so want to make sure they will be better than what I'm already using
 
The wheels you have arn't so bad. But early series rims on the rear to keep the track narrow and forward contol, 1 ton or 130 rims on the front or any other steel rim with alot of offset.In ALRC spacers ain't allowed but if you are in ALRC you prob know that, also alot of peep's run 205's for the extra bit of lock.
 
Do you know the offset of these wheels you advise?i have also heard they are good ,I've ran insa on 205's but prefer the gearing for the trialling with the bigger 235,luv the Mach 5 look but would hate to spend that kind of money and loose steering instead of gaining
 
231601 88" except NADA (5J) (latterly STC3403)
526753 88" NADA, 15"
272309 109", earlier type (5.5J), 1 3/4" offset
569690 109", later type, (5.5J)1 5/16" offset (latterly NRC7578 & ANR4636)
217267 Detachable rim (split rim)
569204 109" One Ton (6.5J) (latterly ANR1534)

LR_rims.jpg
 
alot of the lads i trial(ed) with use disco rims, cut out the centres turn and re weld..your only doing low speed so not too much risk but needs to be welded exaclty squar ein the wheel to prevent wobble.
 
Paulmitchell1984 said:
alot of the lads i trial(ed) with use disco rims, cut out the centres turn and re weld..your only doing low speed so not too much risk but needs to be welded exaclty squar ein the wheel to prevent wobble.
Click to expand...

Yes when I started competing many moons ago we used to get the early LWB rims and remove the rivets and turn the rim around, set the offset and weld the centre back in. I used to comp on them no prob.
I have heard reports of diy welded wheels failing though so only do if you are confident in your welding, even at trials speed a rim and tyre could cause a serious injury to a spectator.
 
Cant you use the spare steels that come with discos/defenders turned around? I have done this on my expedition trailer to allow me to fit the same width tyres as my 90 is running...
 
I use 235/85 kaimans on modulars I'd like wide offset fronts and narrow rear but this wouldn't be good on the road as its still a road vehicle, mainly for green laneing but still,
 
I would have thought somebody would make them now,I see the adverts for offset wheels but which are better than what I have and r ok for arc regs?
 
You can spend ALOT of money on wheels for no real gain. Max allowed for ALRC is 102 mm from the naive plate to the outter rim. Look out for 130 rims which are ok ish offset and and swb rims on the rear. I have a set of Austin champ front rims and swb rear rims for the trials motor.

I do plan on using RRC Rostyle rims because they are quite a narrow light and strong enough rim. I have de rivited one and will spin the centres around on 3 of them and leave 3 of them std.

You need to think about what you want the wheel to do. Sounds really silly doesent it but alot of money can be spent on asthetics and each to their own no problem spending money to make it look nice if it suits your needs. Just bare in mind its usually the money spent hidden in mechanicals that keep it a vehicle ultra reliable.

My criteria for a wheel for trialer/comp motor would be:

Must be Steel (can be hammered back when it bends the rim back over itself whereas alloys crack deflate).

I want a narrowish rim, Personal choice.

Ideally the ability to gremove the hub without removing the wheel. (This is where rostyles fall down).

Light as possible less rotating mass/unsprung weight always good.

MUST be max allowed offset on the front and narrow/medium offset on the rear.


Personally I don't see the point in Mach 5 rims or the copys that go for a vast ammount of cash even s/h because they offer no greater advantage over std rims they used to be very light for comp safari racing but they used to fail aswell. Zu alloys for the same reason that i would cry if I hit a rock and damaged one.

I just sold a set of alloys which are Super Super light wolfrace rims. I was tempted to keep them as they are so very light however only 15 inch rims so no go for our club and i really don't think they would last ccving.
 
200tdi ayre said:
I use 235/85 kaimans on modulars I'd like wide offset fronts and narrow rear but this wouldn't be good on the road as its still a road vehicle, mainly for green laneing but still,
Click to expand...


You may laugh but back when 750's were the tallest available a man I knew on new 700 xcl's ex RRC camel trophy tyres ran narrow rims on the rear and much wider offset on the fronts. This was on a brand new 90 It used to go placed others con taller better tyres could dream of and he put ot down to two different tracks. He was a damn fine driver aswell buit he said the two differsnt tracks seemed to help no end. Its swings and roundabouts i guess wide vs narrow again but I like the theory and being narrow might save a couple of silly hits on canes.
 
jai_landrover said:
You can spend ALOT of money on wheels for no real gain. Max allowed for ALRC is 102 mm from the naive plate to the outter rim. Look out for 130 rims which are ok ish offset and and swb rims on the rear. I have a set of Austin champ front rims and swb rear rims for the trials motor.

I do plan on using RRC Rostyle rims because they are quite a narrow light and strong enough rim. I have de rivited one and will spin the centres around on 3 of them and leave 3 of them std.

You need to think about what you want the wheel to do. Sounds really silly doesent it but alot of money can be spent on asthetics and each to their own no problem spending money to make it look nice if it suits your needs. Just bare in mind its usually the money spent hidden in mechanicals that keep it a vehicle ultra reliable.

My criteria for a wheel for trialer/comp motor would be:

Must be Steel (can be hammered back when it bends the rim back over itself whereas alloys crack deflate).

I want a narrowish rim, Personal choice.

Ideally the ability to gremove the hub without removing the wheel. (This is where rostyles fall down).

Light as possible less rotating mass/unsprung weight always good.

MUST be max allowed offset on the front and narrow/medium offset on the rear.


Personally I don't see the point in Mach 5 rims or the copys that go for a vast ammount of cash even s/h because they offer no greater advantage over std rims they used to be very light for comp safari racing but they used to fail aswell. Zu alloys for the same reason that i would cry if I hit a rock and damaged one.

I just sold a set of alloys which are Super Super light wolfrace rims. I was tempted to keep them as they are so very light however only 15 inch rims so no go for our club and i really don't think they would last ccving.
Click to expand...

I have the same theory would never go for a set of Mach 5s on a comp vehicle, they're too heavy and the spacings between the spokes allows for sticks/ rocks to pass in and break callipers ect, they look good but that's about it.

I like wide offset front narrow rear as it will help no end with Turing circle and help stop me hitting canes on the rear which is my downfall, I can judge the front much better than the rear, I might try different offsets on the road and see how it handles but I'm not sure what good it will do for the centre diff, as the inside wheels will be burning at much different speeds and I cant see this being good for the diff.
 
Not nearly enough difference at all to worry about I don't actually think it will make
Not much difference although I understand where your coming from ish. Front has wider arc rear has far less. I ran my 90 like that for years no trouble.

ill soon be running 4.7 rear diff and 4.75 front.

People run 2mm tread on the front and 12 mm tread on the rear that's more of an issue and its designed to take that than what were doing.
 
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