Best place to buy a door actuator

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ChieftainMK2

ChieftainMK2

Active Member
Posts
60
Location
York
Hi All.
I have just taken off my rear door panel to replace the door actuator (rear passenger door) my door is in the locked position and the window will not work on the locked door, I have also done a hard reset up to no avail, so it looks like it’s the actuator, the part I have removed is the UNT DR CONTR RR. So I am assuming that stands for Unit Door Controller RR. So the big question now is, Where is the best place to get one from, ? I have tried York Motor Factors but he told me I will be lucky, so I am appealing to you lads, Thanks all. Health Wishes.
 
jj-car-parts on eBay for me. I got a rear offside complete door lock & solenoid assembly for my FL1 delivered next day for £27, excellent comms & customer service
 
joel4507 said:
jj-car-parts on eBay for me. I got a rear offside complete door lock & solenoid assembly for my FL1 delivered next day for £27, excellent comms & customer service
Click to expand...
Hi Joel4507.
Thank you so much for the info, I have just been onto JJ and I have grabbed the last one, £18 including postage, I should have it by Friday. Thanks again mate, much appreciated.
 
ChieftainMK2 said:
Hi.
Thanks for the info, I have just purchased one from JJ Car Parts. But thanks again.
Click to expand...
If the window and the door lock aren't working, then it would be sensible to test you are getting the correct voltage at the controller module.
I'll look out the wiring in a bit.
 
Last edited:
ChieftainMK2 said:
Hi.
Thanks for the info, I have just purchased one from JJ Car Parts. But thanks again.
Click to expand...
Ok. The main battery power to the LH door module comes from FB3 or FB4 on the the thick Blue/Red wire.
The thick black is the ground wire.
You need to see battery voltage between these two wires.

Just out of interest, does the window switch light up when the headlamps are on?
 
Nodge68 said:
Ok. The main battery power to the LH door module comes from FB3 or FB4 on the the thick Blue/Red wire.
The thick black is the ground wire.
You need to see battery voltage between these two wires.
Just out of interest, does the window switch light up when the headlamps are on?
Click to expand...
Hi Nodge68
I took my other door panel off the other side (Getting good with this trim kit now ;) ) and what I did was take the door control relay off the good door and tried it on my knackered door and it works, I have managed to open my door that was locked shut, so I have managed to get a relay from JJ car parts on flea bay, (One of the lads from the group suggested I try them) I got one for £18 and it will be here on Friday, so hopefully fingers crossed, all should be good. Thanks mate.
 
ChieftainMK2 said:
Hi Nodge68
I took my other door panel off the other side (Getting good with this trim kit now ;) ) and what I did was take the door control relay off the good door and tried it on my knackered door and it works, I have managed to open my door that was locked shut, so I have managed to get a relay from JJ car parts on flea bay, (One of the lads from the group suggested I try them) I got one for £18 and it will be here on Friday, so hopefully fingers crossed, all should be good. Thanks mate.
Click to expand...
Ok so it's the door control module at fault.
I'm surprised swapping over worked, as according to LR, they are programmed for the fitted placement.
Maybe that's just LR making more out of it than it really is.

Hopefully a replacement from another vehicle will work, but don't be surprised if it doesn't, as many modules are locked to a particular VIN, so it may require configuring to you vehicle.
Let us know how you get on.
 
Hi Nodge68
I don’t know, I just tried it and it worked, I thought it would be worth popping off the other door panel, the one on flea bay is listed as freelander 2 left or right rear door unit, so I bought it, they do returns so I will only be out of pocket by postage if it doesn’t work, but they have a search where you put your reg number in and they check it is ok for your vehicle. This is the link to the part I have purchased. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rov...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
 
ChieftainMK2 said:
Hi Nodge68
I don’t know, I just tried it and it worked, I thought it would be worth popping off the other door panel, the one on flea bay is listed as freelander 2 left or right rear door unit, so I bought it, they do returns so I will only be out of pocket by postage if it doesn’t work, but they have a search where you put your reg number in and they check it is ok for your vehicle. This is the link to the part I have purchased. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rov...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
Click to expand...

It's undoubtedly the same module, and if it's just being used at a data conversion module, it should be fine.
Unfortunately the way modern vehicles work, is many control modules are configured to the actual vehicle they were installed in, as a kind of security measure. This means for instance that you couldn't take the engine ECM from one vehicle, and put it in another, without first having to have it configured to the vehicle. The same thing applies to the body control module (CJB), key dock module, dashboard (Ipack), and many other modules.

Hopefully the door module doesn't require to be configured, but if it does, then an LR dealer could do that for you, or anyone else that has access to JLR SDD, which is the dealer software package used to program modern LRs.

Let us know if it works without programming, as this is all very useful information, which will become more useful as these complicated vehicles age.
 
Nodge68 said:
It's undoubtedly the same module, and if it's just being used at a data conversion module, it should be fine.
Unfortunately the way modern vehicles work, is many control modules are configured to the actual vehicle they were installed in, as a kind of security measure. This means for instance that you couldn't take the engine ECM from one vehicle, and put it in another, without first having to have it configured to the vehicle. The same thing applies to the body control module (CJB), key dock module, dashboard (Ipack), and many other modules.

Hopefully the door module doesn't require to be configured, but if it does, then an LR dealer could do that for you, or anyone else that has access to JLR SDD, which is the dealer software package used to program modern LRs.

Let us know if it works without programming, as this is all very useful information, which will become more useful as these complicated vehicles age.
Click to expand...

I will let you know as soon as I have put it on, fingers crossed it will work, It may be here tomorrow.
 
Nodge68 said:
It's undoubtedly the same module, and if it's just being used at a data conversion module, it should be fine.
Unfortunately the way modern vehicles work, is many control modules are configured to the actual vehicle they were installed in, as a kind of security measure. This means for instance that you couldn't take the engine ECM from one vehicle, and put it in another, without first having to have it configured to the vehicle. The same thing applies to the body control module (CJB), key dock module, dashboard (Ipack), and many other modules.

Hopefully the door module doesn't require to be configured, but if it does, then an LR dealer could do that for you, or anyone else that has access to JLR SDD, which is the dealer software package used to program modern LRs.

Let us know if it works without programming, as this is all very useful information, which will become more useful as these complicated vehicles age.
Click to expand...
Hi Nodge68.
Well I put the door module on and it works a treat, all back together now, so it cost me £30 altogether and about 30 minutes work, it was £18.00 for the part and £12.00 for the trim kit. So we have found out that in rear door modules are interchangeable both back doors, I suppose the may do the front doors as well, and we now know that you. Can remove the rear door card/panels with the door closed, so no problems there, Thanks for your help mate, much appreciated.
 
ChieftainMK2 said:
Hi Nodge68.
Well I put the door module on and it works a treat, all back together now, so it cost me £30 altogether and about 30 minutes work, it was £18.00 for the part and £12.00 for the trim kit. So we have found out that in rear door modules are interchangeable both back doors, I suppose the may do the front doors as well, and we now know that you. Can remove the rear door card/panels with the door closed, so no problems there, Thanks for your help mate, much appreciated.
Click to expand...

Excellent stuff. I've learned something new, and you've got a cheap fix. :)
Of course I'm now curious as to what goes wrong with the door modules, but as long as they're easy replaced, what goes wrong with them is irrelevant.
 
Nodge68 said:
Excellent stuff. I've learned something new, and you've got a cheap fix. :)
Of course I'm now curious as to what goes wrong with the door modules, but as long as they're easy replaced, what goes wrong with them is irrelevant.
Click to expand...
We are never too old to learn mate, we have both learned something with this exercise and this can only be beneficial for people who have this problem in future and search the group for help, that’s what it’s all about, I am sure LR say that each door module is not interchangeable jus so they can make money, that’s why a group like this is fantastic.. well once again, Thank You for your help, I am an old school mechanic vehicles from the late 50s through to the early 80s, when we had inline engines and V engines with a Carb and easybits, I was chatting to a young mechanic who has a Humber Hawk in the garage, it needed the timing doing and he didn’t know how to do it cos you couldn’t plug a computer in, when I showed him how to take the Rocker Cover off and stick a pencil into number one cylinder etc etc then alter the dizzy to pen the points to 25,000 he thought it was wonderful lol, took about 25 minutes. Give me the old motors anyday. OKmate, I will leave it with you, thanks again,
 
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