Freelander 1 best live fuse for dash cam

As per the title lads for those of you that have your dash cam hard wired I would like to know what live fuse you have used and were have you earthed it ? thanks

tlo said:

As per the title lads for those of you that have your dash cam hard wired I would like to know what live fuse you have used and were have you earthed it ? thanks

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My car had a faulty cigarette lighter, never bothered me as I used the aux in the rear of the console for phones, CB etc.

When I came to install my dash cam I though I'd fix it so took the lighter out of my parts car. However, you have to take quite a bit of the dash out including the radio mounting box which I found a right PITA and the lighter itself was also impossible to get out without breaking the clips. So, what I did was to take the lighter socket from the parts car, leave the car's lighter in place, but remove the wiring from it and connect up the parts lighter behind the dash sitting on the "transmission tunnel". Connected up the dash cam's cigarette lighter power cable and run it behind dash, A pillar moulding and roof panel.

To make sure it didn't short, I've wrapped the lighter in bubble wrap. Works a treat, all concealed, power comes on with the key and starts recording. I didn't have to take any of the dash to pieces to do it - just lifted the gear stick gaiter to give finger access to the wiring.

Thanks DD fingers crossed I wont have to do that , I had a quick look in between the rain showers and from what I can see the dip and main beams are permanently live with a 10 amp fuse same size as what came with the dash cam so I think I will use one of them and there seems to be a bolt on the bottom right next to the fuse box I hope I can use that as an earth

That seams more faff - you've still got to run wire to the cam but you have to break into a wire and run 2 wires. I simply pulled the connector off the back of 1 lighter socket and plugged it onto another. Admittedly, you lose the use of the cigarette lighter - which in my case didn't matter cos it was broke!

Why not use the wire to the permanent live side for the interior light circuit? Or use the ignition switched sunroof feed in the roof? Both are near to where you'll be fixing your camera, so no trailing wires.

I do not need to spilt any wires I am going to use a piggy back fuse and I don't have an electric sunroof tbh I don't know if the fuse is there for it tho

tlo said:

I do not need to spilt any wires I am going to use a piggy back fuse and I don't have an electric sunroof tbh I don't know if the fuse is there for it tho

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The wiring for the sunroof should be there. You just need to link the wires where the switch would be and fit the fuse. You can then make an ignition feed up to the roof, near the interior light. Or if you want your dash cam to run constantly, take the permanent live from the interior light circuit.

Does the dash cam use 12v?

You may need some components to bring it down to the correct voltage.

GrumpyGel said:

Does the dash cam use 12v?

You may need some components to bring it down to the correct voltage.

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Most run on 5V at a couple of hundred mA. So some form of power adapter is normally suppled with the device. It's cheap enough to get a 12V to USB adapter if it's not supplied.

The easiest way to do this is to use the 5v kit supplied by Halfords. It has the "add a circuit" inline fuse that simply plugs into a spare slot in the fuse box. No mess and very safe. It comes with the correct 5v convertor also. Very quick and easy to use.
http://www.halfords.com/technology/dash-cams/dash-cam-accessories/nextbase-dash-cam-hardwire-kit

Or this off the bay.https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hard-Wire-...d=291517377396&_trksid=p2385738.c100694.m4598

Sorry for the late reply lads i found a permenent live fuse 10v on the bottom row and earthed the kit to the side of the fuse box nice and neat job done