I have done quite a bit of this...............
Found out the hard way that a lot of spray contact adhesives turn to crap after a few months. Bit like thin chewing gum and a pain to remove so good gear can be applied instead.
The only thing I use directly on internal paintwork (remember your not sticking to steel or alli) is brush applied high temp contact adhesive. Yes you use more and yes its messy stuff but it sticks like the proverbial and doesnt let go. Once the first layer of foam is on its fine to use spray for finishing materials but it must be high temp. Even that is only good up to about 120c but its doubtful your going to get any sunshine getting things over that in Blighty.
I have had good results with this stuff but there are rip offs out there so look at price. if its cheap its not the original.
I have got away with spray when lining doors and bulkhead with eva foam but had problems on the ceiling.
Just as a heads up............
The ceiling is one of the few places that stays dry and as its a massive bonus to have areas inside that absorb sound as well as areas that block it its the perfect area to use an open cell foam to reduce echo.
My present roof lining. is a few lengths of flash band to reduce drumming with 10mm of EVA camping mat brush glued over the top followed by 6mm in the front and 18mm in the back of scrim foam spray glued on. Finished in a suede effect vinyl spray glued on top of that. Dunt sound like your after the Bentley look so 15mm EVA foam tiles would probably do the job but even better would be 18mm scrim foam with the scrim side in. It looks quite like a pro liner. Not sure how it would clean though.
This is the 6mm in the cab area. The gap was for wires to the light.
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The scrim foam is pinned onto the EVA then once sized and trimmed is allowed to hang free in sections for spraying and fixing before moving onto the next section.
Once dried the same procedure for the final covering and the detailing nailed on over the top.
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