Best choice for the spare small dash gauge - oil temp/voltage/tacho?

As per the title, thinking of filling the spare position as a treat once I get her back on the road with a 200TDi under the bonnet.
My original temp gauge works OK and has been fitted with the correct sender for the new engine, so I was thinking of something else.
What have you guys fitted? Anyone put a boost gauge in?

Voltmeter is very use full.
Got a clock in my spare hole but lots of radios have a clock on the display now.
I've fitted a mud stuff thing for boost, rev and volts.

Is it an "official" land rover clock? I see Durite do them in analogue and digital versions

I have a voltmeter in the spare hole, plus a SPA combined oil and water temp gauge where the old temp gauge was. I was lucky...I bought it cheap off a mate who was breaking a track day car. However having both critical temps accurate to a tenth of a degree right under my nose is very reassuring...IMHO it's probably worth the cost new anyway especially if you have done all that work on the conversion. I could never get the old temp gauge to work properly, even with the correct conversion sender unit.

Ultimately I'd like the normal dash to go speedo/tacho/boost/temps, with volts/fuel/clock in a pod (Mud or Raptor)

zeaphod said:

Is it an "official" land rover clock? I see Durite do them in analogue and digital versions

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Yes, got it off eBay orf a td5.

I put in a durite oil pressure gauge as I though that would be one of the best things to monitor if my engine was going bad.

With hindsight a combined oil pressure and oil temp would have been better

Flat where does the oil pressure sender pick up from? Is is possible to put in some kind of adaptor so you can have both the original dash light and the gauge for resiliency...plus an oil temp sender too?

Hard-Drive said:

Flat where does the oil pressure sender pick up from? Is is possible to put in some kind of adaptor so you can have both the original dash light and the gauge for resiliency...plus an oil temp sender too?

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yep i used a remote t piece on the end of a piece of braided pipe. It screwed into the sender hole for the light, then you screw the light sender and the gauge sender into it and mount it where you want. I mounted mine up on one of the bolts on the bulkhead so its out of harms way.
I used a remote one deliberately as when i screwed the t piece direct into the filter head it seemed vulnerable.
Only thing is you need to make sure the remote mount is earther properly or the gauge wont work properly.
I am working the next few days but can take a photo on xmas eve if you want?

Is there a dummies guide to fitting different gauges on LZ?
Since completing the rebuild I've fancied a few gauges to help keep an eye on things. Probably, one of the Raptor pods that fit on top of the ash tray as I don't want to cut the dash at all. Boost, volt meter, oil pressure, there's 4 gauge holes in the pod. Cost a canny bit to do all at once, but you've got to start somewhere.

Not sure but fitting is fairly straightforward. They usually need a lighting circuit (splice into the main dash circuit) and then feeds for the power (tale an ignition live off the fuse box) then various wires to various senders depending on what gauges you fit

A thrust indicator for when you switch from impulse to warp drive may come in handy.

flat said:

Not sure but fitting is fairly straightforward. They usually need a lighting circuit (splice into the main dash circuit) and then feeds for the power (tale an ignition live off the fuse box) then various wires to various senders depending on what gauges you fit

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Cheers, Flat.
Do you know which gauges are considered most original looking? Durite, VDO, Mocal? Or, which is considered most reliable?

wammers said:

A thrust indicator for when you switch from impulse to warp drive may come in handy.

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That would be nice! Mine's a bit flat at the moment

wammers said:

A thrust indicator for when you switch from impulse to warp drive may come in handy.

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That is the effect I'm hoping for moving from a N/A to a TDi!

zeaphod said:

That is the effect I'm hoping for moving from a N/A to a TDi!

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It should seem so for sure.

Al2O3 said:

Cheers, Flat.
Do you know which gauges are considered most original looking? Durite, VDO, Mocal? Or, which is considered most reliable?

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For reliability I don't know, I have had VDO in a golf once and Durite in the LR and haven't had a problem with either.

The durite have a white led to light them up but otherwise look okay. Will take a photo of them to

A TD5 but I've speedo, tacho, fuel and an EMSII in the dash.
Then not all fitted yet but Boost, Voltmeter, Ammeter, clock and ambient temps on a Mud pod over the center of the dash.
Oil pressure, oil temp and transmission temp on a small mud that I might put down on the lower part of the dash between the gearstick and handbrake area.

EMSII does coolant temp and level warnings, service interval, EGT, fuel pressure and temp