P38A Best AirBags - About to ditch the Coils

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Datatek is sending me the cable ect so coming together. Weather depending will get it done this weekend.

Just a couple more questions.

What kind of pressure should I manually inflate the bags too before removing jacks and applying the weight of the car for the first time? 20 psi sound about right at a guess?

If I get the dreaded max speed 35 mph warning. How would you go about using the shrader valves?
As in would it be safe to pop the pipe feeds to the bag out of the valve block once it's on bump stops and fit the valves, and even then whilst I could physically pump the bags up with the valves. I would still have to by-pass the eas warning electrical system to be able to drive over 35mph, or could I do that anyway with bags inflated manually and just ignore the warning message?
What I was thinking was wiring in the eas by-pass loom on a switch so if the eas spits it's dummy out I can switch on the loom to put it in manual mode and inflate using the valves until I can get home and plug in the diagnostics.

Apologies for all the questions just want to get the best understanding for all eventualities I can before I take the plunge!
 
PastyMuncher83 said:
Datatek is sending me the cable ect so coming together. Weather depending will get it done this weekend.

Just a couple more questions.

What kind of pressure should I manually inflate the bags too before removing jacks and applying the weight of the car for the first time? 20 psi sound about right at a guess?

If I get the dreaded max speed 35 mph warning. How would you go about using the shrader valves?
As in would it be safe to pop the pipe feeds to the bag out of the valve block once it's on bump stops and fit the valves, and even then whilst I could physically pump the bags up with the valves. I would still have to by-pass the eas warning electrical system to be able to drive over 35mph, or could I do that anyway with bags inflated manually and just ignore the warning message?
What I was thinking was wiring in the eas by-pass loom on a switch so if the eas spits it's dummy out I can switch on the loom to put it in manual mode and inflate using the valves until I can get home and plug in the diagnostics.

Apologies for all the questions just want to get the best understanding for all eventualities I can before I take the plunge!
Click to expand...
You dont need a lot of pressure, play it by ear. When you get the kit from Datatec you will be able to clear the speed warning's.If you have done the compressor and the valve block then I think you being pesimistic, don't complicate the system, good maintence is the way to go. Good idea to fit the bag and pipe then pop the other end out of the valve block and use the s/valve if the air system is not operational, but I thought you had the system working.
 
When you have installed the air system correctly, it wont spit its dummy out. you must remember the people who come on the site with problems are just that,they have a problem, the ones who dont have a problem just try to help. these cars travel thouands of miles with no trouble at all,but we only hear about them when trouble arises. take your diagnostics with you and the air valves and only use them if you need to.
 
Wait until you get the software and cable from Keith, get the system working, THEN fit the bags. Do the rears first then do the fronts no need for valves. You can disable flow to bags by having a door open.
 
Ok thanks.

I have never had the system running. Bought the car last year on coils, had the compressor and everything left in place won't know what's working or not until I get stuck in. Will wait for the software, didn't think I could run the system with no airbags fitted but was incorrect.

I am being pessimistic but just preparing for the worst, in the hope of being pleasantly surprised!
 
PastyMuncher83 said:
Ok thanks.

I have never had the system running. Bought the car last year on coils, had the compressor and everything left in place won't know what's working or not until I get stuck in. Will wait for the software, didn't think I could run the system with no airbags fitted but was incorrect.

I am being pessimistic but just preparing for the worst, in the hope of being pleasantly surprised!
Click to expand...

First job is remove inhibit harness and get EASUnlock coupled up. Clear any faults recorded on system. Do the rears first, don't forget to chock the front wheels when you lift the arse end. No handbrake with rear wheels lifted. Stands under chassis jack under axle. Easier to do with wheel arch liners off, but can be done without removing them, but you will need long offset snipe nose pliers. Make sure area top cap fits in is clean and that cap fits snugly. Make sure air pipe is clean and gore free remove sharp edges if you have to cut it back (5 mm at most). Apply a little vaseline or silicone grease to end of pipes and push fully home. Lift axle just enough to refit rear wheels. Lower to ground. Start engine with a door open allow compressor to run for a few minutes. Close door you should see rear start to lift as soon as you see movement open door switch off engine. Jack up and remove stands. Front same procedure as rear can be done without removing wheel arch covers but a bit more fiddly.
 
wammers said:
First job is remove inhibit harness and get EASUnlock coupled up. Clear any faults recorded on system. Do the rears first, don't forget to chock the front wheels when you lift the arse end. No handbrake with rear wheels lifted. Stands under chassis jack under axle. Easier to do with wheel arch liners off, but can be done without removing them, but you will need long offset snipe nose pliers. Make sure area top cap fits in is clean and that cap fits snugly. Make sure air pipe is clean and gore free remove sharp edges if you have to cut it back (5 mm at most). Apply a little vaseline or silicone grease to end of pipes and push fully home. Lift axle just enough to refit rear wheels. Lower to ground. Start engine with a door open allow compressor to run for a few minutes. Close door you should see rear start to lift as soon as you see movement open door switch off engine. Jack up and remove stands. Front same procedure as rear can be done without removing wheel arch covers but a bit more fiddly.
Click to expand...
If you have to cut back the pipe then you can chamfer the end with a pencil sharpener, but be gentle with it.;):)
 
Hi, well done for putting your Rangey back on air, I once drove one on coils and found it an awfull drive so walked away from it. Don't want to stress you out even more but there is another thing to check whilst putting it right, behind the kick plate in the passenger side footwell are a couple of white connector blocks, you want to take a close look at the bigger one of the two, the wires in that block are to do with the EAS and are prone to getting damp and causing EAS problems. The pins in the block often break or turn green with the damp. Many people on here including my self have had issues concerning the connections in the block, it only takes a couple of minutes to remove the panel and give it the once over. If you find any damp inside the block you can gently clean it with electrical cleaner, not WD40, but if any of the pins have broken away many others including myself simply cut the block out then resolver and heat shrink the wires back together .
Good luck
Paul
 
PPP38vouge said:
Hi, well done for putting your Rangey back on air, I once drove one on coils and found it an awfull drive so walked away from it. Don't want to stress you out even more but there is another thing to check whilst putting it right, behind the kick plate in the passenger side footwell are a couple of white connector blocks, you want to take a close look at the bigger one of the two, the wires in that block are to do with the EAS and are prone to getting damp and causing EAS problems. The pins in the block often break or turn green with the damp. Many people on here including my self have had issues concerning the connections in the block, it only takes a couple of minutes to remove the panel and give it the once over. If you find any damp inside the block you can gently clean it with electrical cleaner, not WD40, but if any of the pins have broken away many others including myself simply cut the block out then resolver and heat shrink the wires back together .
Good luck
Paul
Click to expand...

Thanks something else to remember to check! And thanks to everyone for their input gratefully received.

I am going to fit the bags and inflate them with the valves this weekend, then next week once the software, cable etc arrives fire up the EAS system and see what's what.

Will let you know how it goes
 
If you decide to inflate direct using scrader valves then 20psi probably a good place to start. IIRC it needs 50psi or so before it starts to lift on the bag. Memory is a bit hazy though.
 
Thanks for that, i will be inflating with the valves.

It says on the instructions for the Schrader valves to run between 2-4bar max. I will prime them with a little over 20 then go up to 3 bar all being well and leave it at that until I've got the software and fired up the eas so long as all looks OK in terms of ride height ect.


Grrrrrr said:
If you decide to inflate direct using scrader valves then 20psi probably a good place to start. IIRC it needs 50psi or so before it starts to lift on the bag. Memory is a bit hazy though.
Click to expand...
 
Grrrrrr said:
If you decide to inflate direct using scrader valves then 20psi probably a good place to start. IIRC it needs 50psi or so before it starts to lift on the bag. Memory is a bit hazy though.
Click to expand...

Sure is. Standard height is only around 60 PSI. You need nothing like that in bags to lower car and make bags fold properly. ;)
 
Ok so made a start but rain has stopped play.

Started on the rear, removed the coil spring but there are a couple of issues.

I can't find the air pipe that feeds the bag, have removed the arch liner but still can't see it. Any tips on where I should expect to find it?

I also can't push the bag through the top mounting plate far enough to get the pin in. It will go thru the cut out hole but doesn't sit flat against the face. I have cleaned it all out and there is no crap holding it off.

Also the height sensor was unplugged which hopefully won't be too much of a concern!
 
I don't think so I've looked at the inventory of the coil kit fitted and no plates rqd for the upper rears just a rubber ring thing.

It just has the cut out looks oem
 
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