BennehBoy's D2 adventure

Yeah might just create a rebuild thread.

So today I finally got round to trying to sort out the front DS drive shaft oil leak. MOT is on Monday so didn't want an advisory for it.

I've replaced the seal 3 times now including doing some shimming.

So I bought a used driveshaft to try sort it - the metal shield on mine was worn quite a bit....

After jacking up and putting an axle stand in the wheel came off, you can see the oil leak quite clearly (treated it to some gunk and a jet wash):


Brake caliper and pads off:


Caliper carrier off:


Disk off:


Hub nut off with the milwaukee:


Pull hub off the shaft with 3 legged puller after undoing the 4 retaining bolts:


Here's the metal shield, I'm convinced it's too deep on the shaft to seat against the seal:


Pretty knarly axle tube, but the seal land is good, this is after pulling the old seal out and a bit of a clean:


Old top, replacement bottom, you can see the shield is sat closer to the spline end.


New seal inserted, used a 50mm socket, a seal pusher, a long punch for some finesse, and a FBH:



hub back on, disk on, caliper carrier on, pads in, caliper on, wheel on, drop off the stand and jack, then torque up the nut to 490nm and stake it:

MOT tomorrow, sorted out the tilted steering wheel (shortened drag link), got rid of the SRS warning (just needed the connector to the rotary coupler pushing fully home).

And fitted the engine cover to hide the EGR delete... it's all looking a bit respectable under the bonnet now:

Question, why didnt you upgrade to a tubular exhaust manifold ?

200tdi ayre said:

Question, why didnt you upgrade to a tubular exhaust manifold ?

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Had one, split it.

The only one available that seems to work is Alive tuning's PP5 package one, but you have to buy their VVT turbo too.

Bennehboy said:

Had one, split it.

The only one available that seems to work is Alive tuning's PP5 package one, but you have to buy their VVT turbo too.

Click to expand...

Yeah heard good reviews of the alive stuff

Good luck wth the MOT Benneh. Mine is also tomorrow, but doing it a month early as I'm expecting it to fail on a couple of things. Will be hanging around while it's done so I can pick the testers brains and get to know the car a bit better.

MOT failed.

1) Number plate not vertical (stuck on plate that they passed last year ffs)
2) Rear NS trailing arm to chassis bush failed.

So not a disaster but the number plate thing is a bit of a joke.

It wold have passed if it was a Friday
Never get a MOT on a Monday the testers are in a bad mood LOL

Albjames said:

It wold have passed if it was a Friday
Never get a MOT on a Monday the testers are in a bad mood LOL

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Good point :doh:

I will give you the details of my tester next time we meet Benneh. You'll get none of that sort of nonsense from him.

If something is unsafe he will fail. If it is not, he may give an advisory. I got an advisory on one tyre, now changed.

Maaarrghk said:

I will give you the details of my tester next time we meet Benneh. You'll get none of that sort of nonsense from him.

If something is unsafe he will fail. If it is not, he may give an advisory. I got an advisory on one tyre, now changed.

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Friends with a car that's in much worse state than mine just got a clean sheet at a different tester :/

So yesterday I had done about 150 miles of gentle driving, keeping the revs pretty varied.

Decided to see, briefly, how the car performed at the top end and was really quite dissapointed. Sluggish springs to mind.

Looking at my boost gauge the car is struggling to make 21psi, whereas 25psi was easily made before the rebuild.

Should I expect performance to increase as the rings bed in? Or is something 'up'?

All the boost hoses, vac lines, etc are good, as are all sensor readings.

My gut is telling me that it's the valves leaking - I was daft enough to not check them when I got the head back from the engineers that I paid to finish the lapping in.

Thoughts?

Bennehboy said:

So yesterday I had done about 150 miles of gentle driving, keeping the revs pretty varied.

Decided to see, briefly, how the car performed at the top end and was really quite dissapointed. Sluggish springs to mind.

Looking at my boost gauge the car is struggling to make 21psi, whereas 25psi was easily made before the rebuild.

Should I expect performance to increase as the rings bed in? Or is something 'up'?

All the boost hoses, vac lines, etc are good, as are all sensor readings.

My gut is telling me that it's the valves leaking - I was daft enough to not check them when I got the head back from the engineers that I paid to finish the lapping in.

Thoughts?

Click to expand...

Oh dear, it'd be a shame for you to open it up again

Yeah, another HG and set of bolts too :/

Bennehboy said:

So yesterday I had done about 150 miles of gentle driving, keeping the revs pretty varied.

Decided to see, briefly, how the car performed at the top end and was really quite dissapointed. Sluggish springs to mind.

Looking at my boost gauge the car is struggling to make 21psi, whereas 25psi was easily made before the rebuild.

Should I expect performance to increase as the rings bed in? Or is something 'up'?

All the boost hoses, vac lines, etc are good, as are all sensor readings.

My gut is telling me that it's the valves leaking - I was daft enough to not check them when I got the head back from the engineers that I paid to finish the lapping in.

Thoughts?

Click to expand...

Leaking valves would have a much bigger effect at low RPM so doubt it.

Check cam timing, hoses, also is the waste gate operating too soon.

MJI said:

Leaking valves would have a much bigger effect at low RPM so doubt it.

Check cam timing, hoses, also is the waste gate operating too soon.

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What would that bigger effect be?

Cam timing was set with the flywheel locked TDC and the timing pin placed in the head - there's some wiggle adjustment on the cam sprocket, but what would I be looking for?

PS, it does feel flatter right across the rev range...

Hmmm, the allisport manifold I put on is supposed to improve flow, but surely not to the tune of 20-25%? And like I say, unless I'm imagining things, it just feels slower.

Bennehboy said:

What would that bigger effect be?

Cam timing was set with the flywheel locked TDC and the timing pin placed in the head - there's some wiggle adjustment on the cam sprocket, but what would I be looking for?

Click to expand...

Leaky valves are more noticable off idle than at high RPM.

So if it is flat at high RPM I doubt the valve seat is the issue