Becm ??

hi all
Well it's been a while since my last post !! And yet again another battery drain problem (more serious this time)
Since buying nearly four years ago .have replaced several batteries.new remote module.and alternator.all has been fine for a while now (just throws the odd wobble now and then ,as they are prone to do ??)
Made a 350mile trip before xmas all fine .next day battery dead .charged battery next day dead !!
Hear we go another battery I thought.
But battery tested ok 12.6 v left in garage for 1 week still 12.5
Connected in car started motor ,alternator is charging
Connected my meter let it go to sleep ,and have a drain of 0.4 /0.5 of amp
Started removing fuses and the drain goes when i remove maxi fuse 4 (60a)
Live supply to becm (ouch)
So with battery connected and meter on amps ,can I remove any of the signal connectors from becm to try to eliminate drain or is this a job for RICK THE PICK ?.
All help most appreciated
Car is p38 Thor 4 litre gas converted
Very basic ,only drivers seat is electric ,and wing mirrors .(assumed less to go wrong ) HOW STUPID WAS I )
Thanks
John

Disconnect the alternator ignition off and see if you have same drain.

hi wammers have done that ,I don't think it's the diode pack ?
The only thing that gets the drain to drop is by removing fuse 4 on the main board ,if this powers all relays via the board ? Can I remove any of the outgoing signal wires to try to elliminate the drain ?
Or is it worth removing any becm connectors and cleaning them ?
Cheers
John

U DIDNT A RR LOL said:

hi wammers have done that ,I don't think it's the diode pack ?
The only thing that gets the drain to drop is by removing fuse 4 on the main board ,if this powers all relays via the board ? Can I remove any of the outgoing signal wires to try to elliminate the drain ?
Or is it worth removing any becm connectors and cleaning them ?
Cheers
John

Click to expand...

Maybe but don't disconnect anything from the BECM with the battery connected. Rick would know a lot more about this than i do. The BECM takes time to go to sleep it does not do it straight away. If it is not going to sleep you need to find what is causing it not to.

just been testing again ,still none the wiser !! All I know is when I remove fuse 4 it drops .
3rd pic connect car
4th pic open door and sync key
2nd pic all asleep !!
1st pic fuse removed
So if I open door and push latch down then wait for it to sleep ,will it ??
If it does sleep (with the .4amp drain) can I then remove any of the connectors to becm to see if I can isolate drain ?
Cheers
John

U DIDNT A RR LOL said:

View attachment 95569 View attachment 95568 View attachment 95566 View attachment 95567 just been testing again ,still none the wiser !! All I know is when I remove fuse 4 it drops .
3rd pic connect car
4th pic open door and sync key
2nd pic all asleep !!
1st pic fuse removed
So if I open door and push latch down then wait for it to sleep ,will it ??
If it does sleep (with the .4amp drain) can I then remove any of the connectors to becm to see if I can isolate drain ?
Cheers
John

Click to expand...

Contact Rick the Pick. I would not advice removing or reconnecting anything with the battery connected.

I don't think it goes to sleep with the bonnet open and needs 30 minutes or so to do so. I attached jump leads and then attached my battery tester to those under the car.

Have you got the old RF receiver? If so add a remote 12V switch as per BrianDSE.

Hi all
Think I will try and pm rick
The bonnet was up but I had a socket in the close mechanism,so could test out the becm
The remote module was replaced with the new version 2 years ago and has been perfect since
What would be the best place to site a battery cut off switch .
Cheers
John

hen you say close mech are you talking the latch bit....I thought the bonnet switch was mounted on the bulkhead!

Could be wrong though!

Saint.V8 said:

hen you say close mech are you talking the latch bit....I thought the bonnet switch was mounted on the bulkhead!

Could be wrong though!

Click to expand...

Think it's part of the o/s bonnet latch Ant.

U DIDNT A RR LOL said:

Hi all
Think I will try and pm rick
The bonnet was up but I had a socket in the close mechanism,so could test out the becm
The remote module was replaced with the new version 2 years ago and has been perfect since
What would be the best place to site a battery cut off switch .
Cheers
John

Click to expand...

I think a battery cut off will give you more problems. Just imagine having to reset all the windows, the sun roof, if fitted and the radio code every time.

Was a problem with battery drain caused by the EAS timer relay, fitting a resistor across two wires on the data link connector fixed it but think that was only on the diesels.

Sorry should have mentioned the car is a 2002 p38
The bonnet immobiliser switch is in the drivers side bonnet catch ,I found a tapered 12mm half inch socket pushed in hole does the job ,
I must admit a switch on battery would be a last resort .
Have pm rickthepick see if it is becm
Cheers
John