Be preapred for another 'How To' from Saint.V8....

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:) Love to, but I wouldn't want to deprive you of such a fun job....:D:p:D

Ahhh well don't say I didn't offer :p:D

My biggest issue is time, I'm doing my gearbox service as per your 'how to' on Saturday, also try and find my coolant and oil leak.

I work away a lot, but missis uses the rangie more than I do lol, so I need to make sure it doesn't break whilst I'm away lol
 
Ahhh well don't say I didn't offer :p:D

My biggest issue is time, I'm doing my gearbox service as per your 'how to' on Saturday, also try and find my coolant and oil leak.

I work away a lot, but missis uses the rangie more than I do lol, so I need to make sure it doesn't break whilst I'm away lol
Good Luck with it.....

A few points to note....

Make sure you can get the Fill/level plug out before you start....this little fecker can be uber tight - dont wanna drain fluid only to find you can't get it back in

Make sure you have a method of getting your fresh oil back in.....

Drips trays....goggles....gloves....

Check level correctly....as per RAVE....

Even when you have emptied the pan...when you take it off, there could still be some in it!!
 
Thanks Bix....Luckily, I only got a mile up the road, as I run LPG, The system is set to switch over to Gas at 45degC.....that doesn't heppen until about another half a mile...so by the time I had got home, I would estimate the temp to be in the region of 60-70degC.....the M62 is designed to run at 105degC as standard.....so fingers crossed no damage...the drive through the Surrey Hills to pick the girlfriend up was event free....so heres hoping!
Good news, hopefully she is good to you now, you've sunk way too much into her to left you down again.

Fingers crossed for you.
 
Perhaps I can ask for advise on this having read all the threads on this. My first L322 td6 was purchased at 39,000 miles and exchanged at 99,000 miles for a 56 plate td6 at 49,000 miles and now on 66,000. I am pretty certain my independent LR garage used for last 20 years has never changed the gearbox oil and so far no problems with the gearbox. By how much do you think I am pushing my luck. Hope to sell again around 99,000. Oh and until recently have never put it in neutral when stopped at lights etc and trying to persuade my wife to do the same.
 
Perhaps I can ask for advise on this having read all the threads on this. My first L322 td6 was purchased at 39,000 miles and exchanged at 99,000 miles for a 56 plate td6 at 49,000 miles and now on 66,000. I am pretty certain my independent LR garage used for last 20 years has never changed the gearbox oil and so far no problems with the gearbox. By how much do you think I am pushing my luck. Hope to sell again around 99,000. Oh and until recently have never put it in neutral when stopped at lights etc and trying to persuade my wife to do the same.
Your 56 plate should have the ZF6HP26 Gearbox which by all accounts doesn't suffer from Torque Convertor or Valve Blck problems....BUT...it is wise to change the fluid at 24-30k intervals....so as you say yous has approached 66k, it could be worthwhile changing the fluid.

Heres the kick....IMHO don't do the Megaflush or whatever it is called...this system pumps all the old fluid out and replaces it all with fresh....this can have a shock effect on the gearbox....ATF is a very good detergent, and if all of it is replaced at once, it will clean all the nocks and crannies in the box which have be 'safely' holding onto dirt and grundge...only for this debris to be dragged into the box all in one go and there have been reports of failures caused by a complete fluid change....

If it had been changed at 24-30k intervals, a Megaflush would be OK, but as it is now getting on 6.5 years old there is the possibility of disturbing things....

A pan drain and filter change will do about 65% of the fluid...then in 24k miles or a year which ever you feel best, do another 65% change...and so on...this way within 3 changes all the fluid will only be about 2.5 years to 3 years old....or about the 30k mark on each subsequent fluid change....

It would be worth doing, but as mentioned, the ZF6HP26 doesn't 'seem' to suffer the same GB issues as the GM or ZF5HP24 boxes....and yes Neutral at the lights is good practise...if Land Rover put it in the Handbook..it is there for a reason!

L322TransmissionsH.jpg
 
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The system is set to switch over to Gas at 45degC.....

Just out of interest Saint, did you set it to change at 45deg?

Mine is set to go at 70, and the company that sold me the kit went to great lengths to tell me to make it no earlier than that. Something to do with giving a steadier tickover on gas, and being kinder to the engine and gas injectors....
 
Thanks Saint V8 for the comprehensive reply. If only it was the TDV8 - its near or is the last of the TD6 range.
So still on the GM Box....!!

Hmmmm, changing the fluid will delay the inevitable...the problem as far as I can fathom is the Valve Block was made from soft Aluminium which wears over time...this wear reduces the hydraulic pressure applied to the Torque Convertor (as the valve is letting by due to wear of the valve bore) and as such the TQ isn't clamping which sufficent force and this wears the Lock Up Clutch friction material in the TQ which gets deposited into the oil which wears everything else out (like a very very fine cutting paste) until the TQ just gives up and all the friction material is gone and the metal to metal contact happens and trashes the box...

Only real fix is to replace the TQ and replace the Valve block with a new one from Sonnex(?) or is it Solex or Sonnax....something like that.

Changing the fluid regularly on the GM box is a good thing as it removes this 'cutting paste' mixture of grit in the oil...but the Valve block will still wear out over time...the fluid changes just delay the inevitable as far as I can figure....
 
Just out of interest Saint, did you set it to change at 45deg?

Mine is set to go at 70, and the company that sold me the kit went to great lengths to tell me to make it no earlier than that. Something to do with giving a steadier tickover on gas, and being kinder to the engine and gas injectors....
It was my typo fat fingers small kepyboard - and I did actualy check the change over temp today which was 65degC....:eek::eek:

So yes, the change over should occur at around 60-70 and my post should have read ' 65degC so I am guessing my temp when I got home is around 65-70degC....' as just as I parked in front of the garage the LPG switched over...

My bad...!!:eek:
 
So what you are saying is I should replace the TQ and valve block at around 80,000 to 85,000 miles BEFORE there is any sign of anything going wrong. Thanks again.
Difficult to answer...

Yes would be my initial reaction...but it is expensive....if you are only going to keep the car for another year byond that...I am not sure you will get your money back on the sale price....if you are part ex'ing to a dealer for a newer model, I would probably not bother, as they are a) going to give you rock bottom price for it regardless of your recent expenditure and b) they will re-sell it with a warranty in anycase.

If you were going to keep it, change it....

If you are privately selling, the new Valve Block and TQ with receipts as proff could add a fraction to the price and make it easier to sell - but you won't get all your maney back on it.

If you are Part ex'ing to a dealer....I would see little point in changing it as you won't get your money back on it.
 
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