Battery Problem?

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Datatek said:
That's the one, lid just goes on. They have changed the brand, still 4 year warranty. Had mine 4 years, no problems:D
If you search by vehicle type it comes up with that one.
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Great.
Next, replacement alternator, any advice on where to order.

Ps. Thanks for the help. :)
 
67Rob said:
Great.
Next, replacement alternator, any advice on where to order.

Ps. Thanks for the help. :)
Click to expand...
What is wrong with your alternator? You can fit a new diode pack and regulator for not a lot. I'm in France, so a bit out of touch with where would be the best place to buy, but whatever you do the output needs to be 14.2 to 14.8 volts, 14.5 volts is a good compromise. Lower than 14.2 and the battery will not last long especially if you do a lot of short runs.
 
Datatek said:
What is wrong with your alternator? You can fit a new diode pack and regulator for not a lot. I'm in France, so a bit out of touch with where would be the best place to buy, but whatever you do the output needs to be 14.2 to 14.8 volts, 14.5 volts is a good compromise. Lower than 14.2 and the battery will not last long especially if you do a lot of short runs.
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As it's only putting out 13.8 I thought it was on it's way out.
 
Datatek said:
Bigger is better, 664 is only 110AH 750CCA. Yuasa are great but bloody expensive.
The P38, especially the diesel needs as much power as possible when cranking.
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Thats why i'm using Yuasa 640 SHD battery - 1000A, 100Ah(new ones are rated 115Ah). Works great, but need to replace alternator - it used to give 14.3V, now only 13.8-13.9V after some mudding. And it's bloody cheap(at least in Poland).
:D

Most of cranking problems are solved with adding additional earth strap from battery to engine. And hot starting problems too. There is no way that factory thin wire is going to transfer that amount of power to starter.
:D
 
Datatek said:
Pretty easy, don't know where from in the UK, I'm in France, you could try Ebay. Wammers would know. You could try a search, it's been done many times.
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This is what i fitted to my 2.5 diesel with Valeo alternator. VALEO VERG1060 VOLTAGE REGULATOR GERMAN 17200 107825 VW FIAT CITROEN PEUGEOT | eBay I know this is 14.2 set point. There is another one called up for Landrover VERG1019 but i don't know what the set point is on that. Fitted the VERG1060 two years ago gives 14.2 and still working.
 
Datatek said:
14.2volts, as you have found, is perfectly adequate:D
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I don't have a full calcium battery. 14.4 is better suited to those. Unless you are willing to charge them with an higher output charger now and again to knock the sulphate off the plates that a lower charging rate will build up over time. 14.2 is part way there 13.8 would be a bloody nightmare on a fully calcium. :);)
 
wammers said:
I don't have a full calcium battery. 14.4 is better suited to those. Unless you are willing to charge them with an higher output charger now and again to knock the sulphate off the plates that a lower charging rate will build up over time. 14.2 is part way there 13.8 would be a bloody nightmare on a fully calcium. :);)
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As I have said before, the spec for lead calcium batteries is 14.2 to 14.8 volts, I published the spec on here some time back.
I agree that 14.4/5 is better though.
My LC battery has done 4 years now with 14.2 volts but not a lot of short trips involved as we live in the middle of nowhere. If I refurb the alternator I will go for 14.5 volts.:)
 
Datatek said:
As I have said before, the spec for lead calcium batteries is 14.2 to 14.8 volts, I published the spec on here some time back.
I agree that 14.4/5 is better though.
My LC battery has done 4 years now with 14.2 volts but not a lot of short trips involved as we live in the middle of nowhere. If I refurb the alternator I will go for 14.5 volts.:)
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Yes but a lead/calcium battery is not a full calcium battery is it. It will have antimony on one plate and calcium on the other in each cell. A full calcium battery has calcium on both plates. :)
 
wammers said:
Yes but a lead/calcium battery is not a full calcium battery is it. It will have antimony on one plate and calcium on the other in each cell. A full calcium battery has calcium on both plates. :)
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Go read the specs.
:- Antimony added to the lead grids acted as a catalyst and made outgassing (loss of hydrogen and oxygen during use) worse, and frequent water replenishing was required. So battery manufacturers looked for another material that could strengthen the lead grids.

Calcium was added to both the positive and negative electrodes in the early 1970s. It reduced outgassing enough to allow manufacturers to claim they building "maintenance-free batteries".

However, lead/calcium batteries are not very resistant to "deep-cycling" (deep discharge followed by a full charge)

Which is why batteries fail if allowed to discharge fully.
 
Last edited:
Datatek said:
Go read the specs.
:- Antimony added to the lead grids acted as a catalyst and made outgassing (loss of hydrogen and oxygen during use) worse, and frequent water replenishing was required. So battery manufacturers looked for another material that could strengthen the lead grids.

Calcium was added to both the positive and negative electrodes in the early 1970s. It reduced outgassing enough to allow manufacturers to claim they building "maintenance-free batteries".

However, lead/calcium batteries are not very resistant to "deep-cycling" (deep discharge followed by a full charge)

Which is why batteries fail if allowed to discharge fully.
Click to expand...

Depends on what version of who's specs you read Keith. Not going through all that again. :);)
 
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