battery light on & power steering failure

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Willie

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Battery light came on at exactly the same time the power steering failed. Could this be because of the alternator belt? Does it drive both the alternator and the power pump. Otherwise any other ideas would be gratefully recieved.
 
Willie said:
Battery light came on at exactly the same time the power steering failed. Could this be because of the alternator belt? Does it drive both the alternator and the power pump. Otherwise any other ideas would be gratefully recieved.
Click to expand...

Will be belt or goosed alternator, very same thing happened to my lads vectra last week, battery light on and driving like a tank.
 
Worth pointing out that on the L-series the loss of the aux drive belt also means the coolant pump stops running. Not a good senario. Can't see what engine your car has Willie.
 
Mine is a TD4 Serengeti diesel 2003.
Have looked under the bonnet and there is no belt, and it drives 3 items. The compresser, the power steering and the alternator as you kindly said.

However the belt I got seems far too long(pqs101300l) and the alternative without airconditioning seems far too short which makes me question the routing of the belt.

I believe I know the correct route but cannot find any pictures of the side of the engine showing the belt route.

Could anybody help??? :D
 
Hi Willie,
Had same problem on my TD4 driving through North Wales towing a caravan! The main auxiliary belt failed and took the air conditioning drive belt as well. So, there are two belts, one drives power steering, alternator, water pump and the second drives the air conditioning. They are wide poly-v belts. You will need to take off a cover plate behind the front wheel to get at them. However, if you look between the front of the engine and the inner wheel arch you will see one of the pulleys with shiney grooves where the belt is missing! Mine shredded and wrapped itself around the drive wheel on the end of the crankshaft and were replaced by Land Rover Dealer and cost £100. The mechanic had to remove the drive wheel on the crankshaft to remove all the shredded belt and check that a sensor had not been damaged.
The procedure for replacing the belts is covered in the Haynes manual or download the RAVE CD.
Hope this helps
Eric
 
Can anything else cause the same fault as mine has done this twice, hubby has put new drive belts on and it was fine but it went again today. I have checked the belt and still seem fine.
 
Does the crankshaft pulley damping rubbers go on these? On my MX5 the rubber damper would perish on the two piece crankshaft pulley and it would cause a wobble, which in turn would wear the woodruff keyway and key. New pulley was the answer along with a new key and some chemical metal for the keyway. Still going strong 60k or more miles later and that was about 6 years ago. That wobble would throw the belts...
 
Spacemonkey... said:
Does the crankshaft pulley damping rubbers go on these? On my MX5 the rubber damper would perish on the two piece crankshaft pulley and it would cause a wobble, which in turn would wear the woodruff keyway and key. New pulley was the answer along with a new key and some chemical metal for the keyway. Still going strong 60k or more miles later and that was about 6 years ago. That wobble would throw the belts...
Click to expand...

All Freelander engines are fitted with crank dampers. In fact most engines from the mid sixties onward had them as they reduced crank failure!!
 
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