Battery / EAS

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billybuilder

billybuilder

New Member
Posts
81
Location
Bournemouth Dorset
Just recalibrated my EAS with the software/cable. It was way out and I fixed it - great!

Put key in to start it and I get engine disabled then gearbox failure then transmission fault then something in german it is throwing a right wobbly. tried so many time I think the battery is draining flat or could a low battery have been the original cause of all the duff messages, It is not the RF receiver problem as I have disconnected its aerial.

Any ideas or do I need the man with the black box again???
 
Have you tried charging the battery and entering the emergancy key code via the door lock.

Sorts out the random messages and engine disabled on mine. Funny thing is my battery is never that discharged, When I charge it. it only takes a trickle.

Steve
 
Thanks to all you guys for your help. Nipped down local car accessory shop for a basic charger priced at £19.99 but when I got home I realised he had only charged me £16.99 - the omens were good. The battery was showing 10.5 volts put it on charge for 2hrs putting it up the 12.5 and problem solved. She is a 1997 4.6 in Rioja Red and she is called Rosie - the most unpredictable and illogical woman I know ( and that is saying something!) but I love her to bits!!!! You guys will understand not sure everyone would.
 
i would like to know why the recalibration uses so much juice from the battery,is just a case of lap-top power or is there another reason?'i say this because i have to do the recalibrating soon but can't afford to have the battery run flat as my BECM will lock out
 
ipsos said:
i would like to know why the recalibration uses so much juice from the battery,is just a case of lap-top power or is there another reason?'i say this because i have to do the recalibrating soon but can't afford to have the battery run flat as my BECM will lock out
Click to expand...

If you are running the laptop from the car battery, the current draw is going to be at least 3.5 Amps. plus the BECM and the EAS compressor and the solenoid block....... If the battery is not tip top it will not stand the draw for very long while you play at re-calibrating.

I believe you can do the EAS calibration with the engine running which will prevent the battery going flat, although I have not tried it myself. Ohterwise connect a battery charger before you start and power the Laptop from the mains:D
 
the best advice i can give

DO NOT run the engine or use mains whilst using a laptop at the same time
the margins for data corruption and failer are far too great

best way is to have a
1
fully charged batterry
2
battery booster to at lrast 12.6 v
3
switch off all ancilaries including interia light - or remove bulb for duration

should then be trouble free
 
I usually start the engine to charge the battery and let the system build up to full pressure, raise the vehicle to full height, then turn off the engine.

Now check n record each height setting figures and related measurements, if the setting are going to take a lot of tweeking I'II start the engine to keep the pressure and battery charged.

Why power the laptop from the vehicle, its got it own battery...
 
ROVER-LOCKIE said:
the best advice i can give

DO NOT run the engine or use mains whilst using a laptop at the same time
the margins for data corruption and failer are far too great

best way is to have a
1
fully charged batterry
2
battery booster to at lrast 12.6 v
3
switch off all ancilaries including interia light - or remove bulb for duration

should then be trouble free
Click to expand...

I have always used mains power on my laptop when playing with the EAS, I see no reason why this would cause corruption of data since the laptop connects to many other devices such as ethernet modems etc without corruption when connected to the mains. Indeed the parts most sensitive to corruption in the computer such as the memory or hard disc would never function if mains bourne interferance was a serious problem.:eek:
 
ROVER-LOCKIE said:
the best advice i can give

DO NOT run the engine or use mains whilst using a laptop at the same time
the margins for data corruption and failer are far too great

best way is to have a
1
fully charged batterry
2
battery booster to at lrast 12.6 v
3
switch off all ancilaries including interia light - or remove bulb for duration

should then be trouble free
Click to expand...

I've never had a problem doing either. Don't want to flatten the Rangey battery and the laptop only lasts about 15 seconds on battery.
 
I kicked off this thread guys. I bought a laptop on fleabay for £9.99 which I just use for EAS, battery lasts about 20mins so I can just about get away with it other than that I just use the mains.
 
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