L322 Battery drain.

sorry I know battery drain has been flogged to death but I can't find the same issue.
Any help would be grateful.
If I leave it closed up but unlocked the battery will drain too low to start the car within an hour. If it's locked it will drain over a couple of days.
I'm thinking the final stage resistor as that seems the most common issue but can I isolate the system to confirm this before I start throwing money at it?

Should add it's an 04 plate td6

An hour????

Holy protons Batman, that's some serious amps

Have you checked the battery is within acceptable limits? I mean it sounds like it could be on it's last legs and the electrical system being "awake" and awaiting instructions will kill what's left of the battery.

Get the battery checked out first before you do anything else and report back.

Battery is brand new and high quality. I have also tested its with a drop tester and that showed it was good.

Ok, well you must have a high drain component sucking the life out of the battery, either that or the alternator isn't putting a good enough charge in. Has that been checked too?

There is a chance the alternator is at fault, a dodgy diode could be leaking back it's not unheard of.

However, I can't be certain what in the vehicle would draw such a large amount of current whilst merely unlocked?!?!

You would think all the heated windows are on for the battery to die in such short order.

Perhaps someone will come along and say "Oh it'll be the wossname thingumyjig, they do that on this model!"

But seriously, that is a large draw. Back in the day, you could pull fuses one at a time and replace them. The one that "sparked" when being reinserted usually pointed to the cause of the draw. I would start with the fuse for the heated seats myself if it has them...

3 things are common for the battery drain on the L322

Final stage resistor, headlamp wipers and the alternator.

You can get a fuse tester thingy which you plug in where the suspect fuse goes and it measures the current going through said circuit.

Try unplug the FSR and see what happens, remove the headlamp wiper arms and cycle the wipers to allow them to park properly the refit in the right place......

Iam not sure how to test for drain through the alternator.....maybe @wammers may know.

Here is the fuse tester thingy http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuse-Budd...383029?hash=item540e5f5ab5:g:UkQAAOSwRLZT54v8
useful bit of kit.

I took the fuse out for the headlamp wipers so that's eliminated that.
The alternator is showing 14volts when running.
The fsr is my next try. Can I just pull the climate fuse to eliminate the resistor? Think it was fuse 69 but will check.
I've got one of the fuse testers on order as they do look useful.
Just off to check the drain overnight with the car locked. Will report back.
Also going to charge the battery again and double check that it's still good.

Ok well it's dropped to 5.2 volts overnight so a big draw still. It was probably down to 11.5 before I left it so it's losing .3-.5 volts every hour. Much more for the first hour or 2 I'd say.
I'll charge it up and pull the climate fuse and see if that stops it

Is that 14v running with all the lights and things on or just running, 14v sounds a bit low iirc should be 14,8 under load
be careful pulling fuses if you pull the satnav one without powering down properly it can fry.

I thought that too, 14v is low for any car...

Question, if the sat nav fuse suddenly blew, would it still fry the system?

And why hasn't the clown who first designed them been charged with treason or theft (for the amount of money people have to spend fixing the damn things)?

I was just going to pull the climate fuse in the hope it disables power to the fsr.
14v was just running. Maybe stereo and interior lights were on but no heaters etc.
Once the battery has charged I'll try again. Can I check for amp drop with the charger attached? Might speed things up.
Should the car shut down after 16 mins even if I don't lock it?

So I could have an alternator fault but i will check the volts again.
I assume I'm doing it right. Check volts across the battery with the car running?
This still wouldn't explain the battery drain though would it? I charged the battery and then checked for voltage lost with leaving it or using it.
Also if I e got a big drain would that not reduce the volts even with the car running?

This is the old way of finding the fault. The one i choose but on a RR who knows - cannot get the link to work on the mobile. Wikihow and How to Find a Parasitic Battery Drain was the link in pictures showing you how to do it.

I have experienced this problem.

Here's a toob vid...

I'll try the amp test again and rather than pulling all the fuses I'll pull the climate fuse and then try the alternator cable as that seems to be the 2 common problems that I haven't looked at

So, checked battery again. Showing its knackered. Now I know it's less than 2 months old and I know it was ok when I first had the battery drain issue.
But now with a new battery on it I'm only showing 0.382 of an amp drain once asleep. What am I missing?

Go for a run, try everything electrical, park it up and test again.

Was the original (knackered) battery a Yuasa by any chance?

They are a known issue and our mechanic would rather eat his own toes than fit one.

He only recommends Oldham, which is what I put in George when I bought her.

I know with my Jaguar, when the battery starts dying (she sit's for months at a time) the glitches come thick and fast.

Alarm will sound for no reason, lights come on and all manner of faults show up if I start her up.

Thing is, even with the battery very low, the engine will start, but I get ABS and/or stability control issues. All which can be rectified by charging the battery or taking her for a ten mile blast.

Multiplex wiring is good, but it is highly dependent on a stable voltage,, anything less than 12v and it throws a wobbler.

Hmm it is a yuasa. Halfords finest I believe. I was going to get another but maybe I will opt for a different brand. I'm trying to trickle charge this one in the hope that it brings it back to life even if it's just as a temporary measure. I've got a battery off my disco on it now which has only been on it a few weeks.
It's to small for the rangie but will be ok for the purpose of testing as I won't be running anything just checking for a drop.

I might be jumping the gun a little but I may have found the issue.
The live wire has the 10mm to connect it to the battery. Then a 12mm for the cables going to the cabin. I was just going to disconnect my metre when I must of knocked the wire and all of a sudden the car came to life.
Turns out the 12mm was lose by maybe 1-2 turns and every so often with the slightest movement would set the car off again.
No alarm or anything. Just as if it was no longer in sleep mode.
I left the metre connected and sure enough with a small rock of the car the metre would jump up to 6-7 amps drawing. Let it rest for 16 mins and it's back to 0.18. Rock the car and off it goes again to 6-7 amps.
Fingers crossed I found the reason for my troubles