Battery cable clamp to kill switch

Hi, can anyone advise the best way to connect the positive cable clamp (battery connector clamp) to a kill switch with 8 or 10mm threads?
The cable clamp won't fit over the kill switch connectors, so need some kind of ring connector. Any ideas would be grateful.
Mines a 300 tdi 90.

Crimp on ring terminal, ebay etc.

lynall said:

Crimp on ring terminal, ebay etc.

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Thanks Lynall,
I thought of that, but those ring terminals can be difficult to crimp I believe. If I have no other option, I guess I could try or buy a new cable with rings already on.
I would need a crimp tool for heavy cable crimps, or does anyone know the length and sectional thickness of the starter cable?

Kevlandau said:

Thanks Lynall,
I thought of that, but those ring terminals can be difficult to crimp I believe. If I have no other option, I guess I could try or buy a new cable with rings already on.
I would need a crimp tool for heavy cable crimps, or does anyone know the length and sectional thickness of the starter cable?

Click to expand...

The image is of the kill switch. Sorry about the size'
Would a bracket or plate in which the battery clamp bolt could be clamped to the plate and the other end connects to the switch be feasible, or could that be unsafe?

Do you have a vice?

Or, you can buy cable of what ever length you want and have ring terminals pre-fitted.

Are you sure that you are competent enough to work on a vehicle?

Yep, I'm confident, just have a cricked neck at the moment and don't want to get under the landie. This is my tenth Landie and have built three myself. This one included. Nut and bolt resto. Where electric's are concerned, I like to do as the experts advise,

Kevlandau said:

Yep, I'm confident, just have a cricked neck at the moment and don't want to get under the landie. This is my tenth Landie and have built three myself. This one included. Nut and bolt resto. Where electric's are concerned, I like to do as the experts advise,

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There is a huge difference between confident and competent.

Your suggestion in the previous post has too much chance of shorting out.

Kevlandau said:

The image is of the kill switch. Sorry about the size'
Would a bracket or plate in which the battery clamp bolt could be clamped to the plate and the other end connects to the switch be feasible, or could that be unsafe?

Click to expand...

Thats going to be an issue sooner or later
You can get quick disconnect battery terminals

If you post up a rough location someone local might have a pair of crimp pliers you can borrow

You can get a hydraulic crimping tool off ebay for £25 to £30. Then the terminals. Got one myself. Worked fine. Or as suggested, find a place that makes them to order.

You could try to source cables from an old ford from a breakers yard, they have ring connectors to fit stupid ford batteries. I looked at getting one of those kill switches but the thought of routing thick cables through the bulkhead put me off and I bought a quick release connector instead.

Col

if you can solder on the ring terminal and fit https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/13087352...PTSeIDm8-fBjiqMdcbOvej993YwNGRO2v4vcoUqxoC1KA

I have a battery isolator that just clamps on to the negative terminal in the normal way, the cable then clamps on the side of the isolator. A screw knob releases the connection when needed. Find on the flebay.

tottot said:

I have a battery isolator that just clamps on to the negative terminal in the normal way, the cable then clamps on the side of the isolator. A screw knob releases the connection when needed. Find on the flebay.

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I have those on the series and tractor, but is a bit of a pain for the defender as need to lift the seat to disconnect.

I would be looking at either solder connections or a cheaper crimping tool if the hydraulic ones are too expensive for you. Although they are not cheap once you have one you find all sorts of things that you can then do yourslef rather than having to buy premade, or custom cables. But you can get hammer crimpers (link) which are much cheaper the the proper hydraulic ones.

I opened a hole in the battery box cover plate so I only have to lift the seat base for access.

I have never seen or fitted a battery isolator onto a positive battery cable.
They should only go onto the negative cable.
If you fit on a positive there is an increased risk of shorts with bare connectors.

V8bob said:

I have never seen or fitted a battery isolator onto a positive battery cable.
They should only go onto the negative cable.
If you fit on a positive there is an increased risk of shorts with bare connectors.

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Lots of isolators do go onto the positive. Anything that is competed or raced needs a positive battery cutoff. And I am looking at fitting one of these isolator solenoids (link) into the battery box on the positive side so there is no further risk of Electrical Faults and fire on my rebuild. I already have one for my winch isolator. As long as your cables are made properly and capped and secured there should be no risk. The ones In The pic below are the positive for my winch and we’re made myself with a hydraulic crimp.