banging/knocking noise...

the rear diff is badly worn, and at the moment has no oil in it since it nackered any way (new 1 getting fitted in couple of days)
anyway, since the diff broke and was replaced with this worn one, every time when the clutch is pressed in slowing down/stopping these is a round knocking from the rear, stops as soon as u start to accelerate again.
i also have a new prop shaft to put in. but if i get hold of the rear propshaft at the moment i can wobble it around alot and it makes the same sort of knocking noise and looks like it has a fair bit of play where it joins the rear diff.

will this all be because of the worn, dry diff?

!!
What do you think?

it starts with U

and ends with J

Davec said:

!!
What do you think?

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dunno thats why im asking

haven't bought it yet nor have i ever owned one before, its a mate that owns it at the moment, and when i buy it is supplying me with a new diff and a new prop shaft, i just wanted to know if this will defiantly be the problem

after my rear diff went, i found the hub was loose on the half shaft. worth checking.

stushine said:

dunno thats why im asking

haven't bought it yet nor have i ever owned one before, its a mate that owns it at the moment, and when i buy it is supplying me with a new diff and a new prop shaft, i just wanted to know if this will defiantly be the problem

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Even on Land Rovers, oil is not an optional extra. If you, or your mate, have been driving around with a dry diff, it's not surprising it's noisy, but it could be loads of other things as well.

Davec said:

Even on Land Rovers, oil is not an optional extra. If you, or your mate, have been driving around with a dry diff, it's not surprising it's noisy, but it could be loads of other things as well.

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ive found out why its empty, it all leaks out he said, at the back where the prop goes in to the diff, once you start to drive the oil comes out of there, i take it thre is some seal or something ment to be there? also like i say u can move the prop shaft by hand and its quite wobbly going in to the diff

as sean says the UJ is the reason you can wobble the prop.

chris_mack said:

as sean says the UJ is the reason you can wobble the prop.

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is it ment to or does it mean its worn?
it might be behind the UJ where its wobbling, very hard to describe

will a new diff and new propshaft sort it basically?

change ALL of the UJs first and then see whats rattling/loose/noisy

UJs are cheap and easy to change and could well cure many of your issues, do the simple easy things first.

stushine said:

ive found out why its empty, it all leaks out he said, at the back where the prop goes in to the diff, once you start to drive the oil comes out of there, i take it thre is some seal or something ment to be there? also like i say u can move the prop shaft by hand and its quite wobbly going in to the diff

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Is it the propshaft moving relative to the flange which bolts to the diff, or is it the flange moving relative to the diff casing?
if its the first its the UJ, if its the second its a buggered diff bearing. For a Rover axle, the oil seal is part number FRC4586 - £0.99 from Paddocks. Why dont peeps replace these things at the first sign of oil leak - its a pith easy job and fur 99p it saves such heartache and expense!

ok, will do
thanks

if it happenes to be the diff bearing, how much is this?
will a new diff bearing come with a new diff?

sorry for all the dumb questions, as i say never owned a landrover before

dont even consider rebuilding a diff. unless yu got access to loadsa gear it needs dti's pressure guages, shims etc.

having sed that - yup a new (or second hand) diff comes complete as a replacement unit. However - if it is yo diff - yu will need to wash the inside of yo axle thoroughly with petrol, to clean out any swarf - when mine went, I had major contamination (see this post), Do make sure yu get a diff with the same ratio as the front or else when yu stick it in 4wd it will chew the drive train to bits.

The Mad Hat Man said:

dont even consider rebuilding a diff. unless yu got access to loadsa gear it needs dti's pressure guages, shims etc.

having sed that - yup a new (or second hand) diff comes complete as a replacement unit. However - if it is yo diff - yu will need to wash the inside of yo axle thoroughly with petrol, to clean out any swarf - when mine went, I had major contamination (see this post), Do make sure yu get a diff with the same ratio as the front or else when yu stick it in 4wd it will chew the drive train to bits.

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i will make sure i clean it out then lol.
is there anywhere on the diff that will tell me how many teeth or is it a case of counting them?

i dont think so - i couldnt see anything - so i counted both the number of teeth on the ring gear and the drive pinion (mark one with chalk)

yu also need to work out the ratio of one to the other (like 4:11 to 1) and then jack up one front wheel (or back if its the front diff wot has gorn) and turn the wheel the same number of times as the drive pinion has teeth and count the number of times the prop rotates (mark both with chalk) yu should get the same ratio (or is it dubble). any ways that way yu can check yu got the same diff ratios front and rear wivout taking both diffs out.

Do make sure yu get a diff with the same ratio as the front or else when yu stick it in 4wd it will chew the drive train to bits.[/quote]

I thought they were constant 4WD

pussyeater said:

Do make sure yu get a diff with the same ratio as the front or else when yu stick it in 4wd it will chew the drive train to bits.

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I thought they were constant 4WD[/quote]


hmmm yea?? permanent 4

yeah - ok - we cud be talkin series here - but principle still applies - diff diffs = fooked transmission.

stushine said:

I thought they were constant 4WD

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hmmm yea?? permanent 4 [/quote]

constant, permanent, full time, they all mean the same thing mate