Ball Joint replacement

M

Megalowmania

Guest

• Jan 10, 2005

• #1

I have a S3 '72 109 and need to replace all six Ball joints. I have a parts
book and workshop manual, but am unsure of how many of each.

The parts book lists 1 ton and v8 but not 109 2.25 which I think is a typo.

The part numbers I think I need are 608464 and 320902.

Also are Paddocks and John Craddocks the same quality and all use Britpart ?

Thanks

Paul

 

S

Steve

Guest

• Jan 10, 2005

• #2

"Megalowmania" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have a S3 '72 109 and need to replace all six Ball joints. I have a
parts
> book and workshop manual, but am unsure of how many of each.
>
> The parts book lists 1 ton and v8 but not 109 2.25 which I think is a
typo.
>
> The part numbers I think I need are 608464 and 320902.
>
> Also are Paddocks and John Craddocks the same quality and all use Britpart
?
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul
>

For a standard Series III you need six joints; three right hand thread and
three left hand thread. I think Paddocks do a deal on a set of six for
somewhere around £25. Getting at the longitudinal steering rod in the
engine bay (steering box to relay) to release the old joints might prove to
be a bit of a sod.

Steve

 

D

Dougal

Guest

• Jan 10, 2005

• #3

Steve wrote:

> For a standard Series III you need six joints; three right hand thread and
> three left hand thread. I think Paddocks do a deal on a set of six for
> somewhere around £25. Getting at the longitudinal steering rod in the
> engine bay (steering box to relay) to release the old joints might prove to
> be a bit of a sod.

Don't ignore your local motor factors (e.g Partco)if you have one handy
- you may be pleasantly surprised by their prices. To ask costs nothing.

It's well worth cultivating a relationship with such people if only to
provide an alternative to Hal..rds.

 

E

EMB

Guest

• Jan 10, 2005

• #4

Steve wrote:

> Getting at the longitudinal steering rod in the
> engine bay (steering box to relay) to release the old joints might prove to
> be a bit of a sod.

And the prize for understatement of the year goes to Steve - they can be
an absolute bastard to do - invest in a really good tie-rod end puller
before you start.


--
EMB

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Jan 10, 2005

• #5

On or around Tue, 11 Jan 2005 09:24:38 +1300, EMB <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>Steve wrote:
>
>> Getting at the longitudinal steering rod in the
>> engine bay (steering box to relay) to release the old joints might prove to
>> be a bit of a sod.
>
>And the prize for understatement of the year goes to Steve - they can be
>an absolute bastard to do - invest in a really good tie-rod end puller
>before you start.

rebuilding the drop arm joint on the disco/RR/defenders with the
rebuildable drop arm joint can be fun, too. Last one I did I had to heat
the top half shell enough to soften it and then cut through it with a
hacksaw to get the bastard out.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"There are three sorts of people in the world - those who can count,
and those who can't" (Anon)

 

M

Megalowmania

Guest

• Jan 12, 2005

• #6

Thanks for all the replies, now I know how many are left and how many are
right. I will definately phone the local Partco, after all, they may do OEM
or QH and not Britpart.

Has any one else tried the brake adjuster kit from Britpart ? Bloody useless
piece of scrap.

Thanks again,

Paul

 

M

Megalowmania

Guest

• Jan 13, 2005

• #7

<SNIP>
> The part numbers I think I need are 608464 and 320902.

Are there actually any differences between the Pre and Post 74 ball joints.
Paddock only list post 74 on the website. RTC 1808 and RTC 1809 where the
pats manual says it should be the 608464 and 320902.

Thanks

Paul

 

B

beamendsltd

Guest

• Jan 13, 2005

• #8

In message <[email protected]>
Megalowmania <[email protected]> wrote:

> <SNIP>
> > The part numbers I think I need are 608464 and 320902.
>
> Are there actually any differences between the Pre and Post 74 ball joints.
> Paddock only list post 74 on the website. RTC 1808 and RTC 1809 where the
> pats manual says it should be the 608464 and 320902.
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul
>

There are indeed changes from around 1974 on, and it is
imperitive that you get the right ones - a friend was
killed by a drag link failure.

Post 74 the tube and track rod/drag link are threaded
right to the end, before that they had a shoulder about
an inch and a half long on the rod with an appropriate
length of unthreaded tub in the rod. The two types
MUST NOT BE MIXED or the results may well be fatal.

Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Helping keep Land Rovers on and off the road to annoy the Lib Dems

 

M

Megalowmania

Guest

• Jan 14, 2005

• #9

<SNIP>
> There are indeed changes from around 1974 on, and it is
> imperitive that you get the right ones - a friend was
> killed by a drag link failure.
>
> Post 74 the tube and track rod/drag link are threaded
> right to the end, before that they had a shoulder about
> an inch and a half long on the rod with an appropriate
> length of unthreaded tub in the rod. The two types
> MUST NOT BE MIXED or the results may well be fatal.
>
> Richard
I'll take heed. Thanks for that Richard.

Paul