Freelander 1 Baffling engine problem

Happyhippo · Aug 28, 2021

I’ve been having a completely baffling engine problem with my 2000 Freelander 1 Rover diesel. It occurs at the same place on every journey about 2 miles from start up.

As I pull on to the roundabout the engine dies and the SRS light comes on. At the same time the Rev counter dies as does the temp gauge. The engine doesn’t stop but dies to idle.
I sit there reving the engne until eventually things return to normal and I can drive off. Temp gauge then returns to normal, rev counter behaves normally and SRS light goes out. Engine behaves normally for rest of the day.

Any pointers to what might be the problem or where to start looking would be very welcome!

GrumpyGel · Aug 28, 2021

Could be the ignition switch losing contact.

Might just be the turn/angle etc at that point sets it off?

Is it only the SRS light that comes on (like a self test when the ignition is turned on) or do the others (eg ABS/TC/HDC) come on as well?

Happyhippo · Aug 28, 2021

Hi Grumps it’s been a while! Thanks for your response from down to under!

It is only the SRS light that comes on but the Rev counter and temp gauge stops working which must be a clue to something. But what?

Happyhippo · Sep 21, 2021

Happyhippo said:
Hi Grumps it’s been a while! Thanks for your response from down to under!

It is only the SRS light that comes on but the Rev counter and temp gauge stops working which must be a clue to something. But what?

Happyhippo · Sep 21, 2021

Hi Grumpy
Just a note to say that I took your advice and replaced the ignition switch with a good second hand unit. A five minute job and touch wood no further problems so far.
The old girl soldiers on!

After not using her owing to the lockdown there were a multitude of problems such as the dodgy ignition switch, a very stiff clutch pedal, brakes that hardly worked and a battery failing to hold its charge. All these things have eased with usage and I’m pleased to see that now the discs are bright and shiny again.
This forum is invaluable for suggestions that you may not have thought of. Thanks!

GrumpyGel · Sep 21, 2021

Happyhippo said:
Hi Grumpy
Just a note to say that I took your advice and replaced the ignition switch with a good second hand unit. A five minute job and touch wood no further problems so far.
The old girl soldiers on!

After not using her owing to the lockdown there were a multitude of problems such as the dodgy ignition switch, a very stiff clutch pedal, brakes that hardly worked and a battery failing to hold its charge. All these things have eased with usage and I’m pleased to see that now the discs are bright and shiny again.
This forum is invaluable for suggestions that you may not have thought of. Thanks!

That's cool.

Maybe I got lucky with the suggestion, maybe it coincidentally fixed itself

Dunno if you lubricated the clutch release arm where it goes through the bell housing, but if you haven't might be worth dripping a couple of drops of engine oil on it. The arm may have freed up with use, but there might still be a bit to much unnoticed friction there - the slave bracket went on mine earlier in the year - maybe that was due to reduced use over lockdown etc.

I haven't really driven much since the pandemic started either, but for the last few weeks I've been doing a 45 minute journey each way to work. A lovely drive through the Cantabrian countryside and its been a real pleasure.

Happyhippo · Sep 23, 2021

Grumpy thanks for your response!
I don’t think the cure was a coincidence. After your suggestion I had a quick look at the wiring diagram. It shows just what a key part(?) the ignition switch plays, with the moving parts a highly likely place for a fault to develop.

I do generally lube the clutch shaft but last time I had the g/box off I fitted a rubber seal to the shaft before greasing and re-fitting it. The sole purpose of which is to stop water running down the shaft and rusting it inside the housing. It has worked pretty well. The other mod I did was to weld a U-shaped piece of 12mm re-bar to the back of the clutch slave bracket to stiffen the bracket. It worked wonders and transformed the gear selection.

If only Land Rover would have done all these mods during testing, including re-mapping the ECU. What a different reputation this model would have had!

GrumpyGel · Sep 23, 2021

Happyhippo said:
Grumpy thanks for your response!
I don’t think the cure was a coincidence. After your suggestion I had a quick look at the wiring diagram. It shows just what a key part(?) the ignition switch plays, with the moving parts a highly likely place for a fault to develop.

I do generally lube the clutch shaft but last time I had the g/box off I fitted a rubber seal to the shaft before greasing and re-fitting it. The sole purpose of which is to stop water running down the shaft and rusting it inside the housing. It has worked pretty well. The other mod I did was to weld a U-shaped piece of 12mm re-bar to the back of the clutch slave bracket to stiffen the bracket. It worked wonders and transformed the gear selection.

If only Land Rover would have done all these mods during testing, including re-mapping the ECU. What a different reputation this model would have had!

Nice mods

Freelander 1 Baffling engine problem

Happyhippo

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GrumpyGel

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Happyhippo

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Happyhippo

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Happyhippo

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