Back Window Problem

Just tried it again disconnect the battery for 20 seconds then turned the ignition on but window did not drop!

STRAWB2 said:

Just tried it again disconnect the battery for 20 seconds then turned the ignition on but window did not drop!

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ElecTrickery not my big thing but somthings def. fooked...Should drop on re-connecting battery and shouldnt have to touch ignition....have you tried fuses??? or openning with remote???

Yes tried that starting to think it must be the regulator!

STRAWB2 said:

Yes tried that starting to think it must be the regulator!

Click to expand...

Get into door card and if cable and wireing all seem ok then try and put power direct to regulator....take it from there.

just to clarify points raised about calibration. page 66 of manual states under "battery disconnection":

"If the battery has been disconnected, the taildoor glass will need to be recalibrated. If the alarm was armed when the battery was disconnected (or discharged), disarm the alarm after reconnection - the glass will fully lower. This will happen automatically if the alarm was in a disarmed state when that battery was disconnected.

After battery reconnection, fully raise the glass - the taildoor glass is now recalibrated (if the glass is not fully raised, an error 'beep' will sound)."

Sounds like it might be internal to the door from what you are describing.

Good Luck

Your call to landrover beat me to it. I haven't logged in for a few days.. Relativeley easy to fit. You simply need to remove the inner rear door trim and locate the unit. Take care with the wiring plugs etc. They can stick at times.

Let us know how you get on.

Louis

Hot today so getting intot he car I smuggly dropped the rear window , all the way down and there's a pingging noise. Won't go back up. Got home took trim off and found the cable exiting the regulator on the bottom has snapped. Dismantled regulator and somehow got the mess inside apart. Removed broken cable and got window back up using remaining cable pluss assistance.
Question is how much and how easy are new cables.

There's a fred on ere Probably in the commun anseres un kwestshuns. sektion. On fixing broken cable yursen.

Cheers I'll take a look

LAND ROVER FREELANDER ELECTRIC WINDOW CABLE REPAIR KIT on eBay, also, Land Rover, Car Parts, Cars, Parts Vehicles (end time 09-Jun-08 23:26:24 BST)

good luck

STRAWB2 said:

Phoned land rover today they seem to think its the regulator and quoted me £280+ vat to fit one I can get one on ebay for about £70 question is how easy are they to fit????

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Relatively easy. Trim off then just nuts and bolts. Everything is adjustable so you can position the glass. Take care with the heated screen wires.
Easier with two people when handling the glass.

Allan

PS Check it's not just a cable broke if it is use bike cable or similar to replace for pennies rather than ££££££

I agree go to your local bike shop and get some brake cable for a push bike as its better to spend a couple of quid (approx £3 )on that than to pay for the quite expensive ebay kits (£20 + when you include the P&P) which comprise of a steel cable and a couple of copper ends pieces .

I'm sure most people on here can rig up some end pieces for next to nowt I just filed the end of the brake cable down to fit into the spool on to the cable end and shaped it to fit intothe spool and braised a small lump onto the end of the cable to stop it pulling through worked a treat and is still going strong months later. Or araldite some thin metal sleeeving on to the cables instead if you don't want unsightly lumps on the ends.

Bought the kit, worth it for instructions. Anyway pretty straightforward and job done. Think I will go with bike cables if I need to do it again I used an adjuster off one anyway.

Right , that didn't last long. Glued on nipple pulled through. Made an almighty mess of the reel. Can you still get screw on (Pinch bolt) nipples? and inline adjusters? I will look myself but just thought I'de ask.

This is a great thread, just what I need on a Saturday night after hearing that awful PING CRUNCH from the rear passenger window.

My mechanical knowledge is almost non existant, so thanks for everyones posts so far. I am thinking the cable has snapped as I can hear a motor spinning in both directions when I press the button. I think I will buy an eBay cable kit, has anyone on here got any experience of them?

Another daft question from the newbie, what is the importance of the blue celephane sheet on the inside of the door panel? Will it stick back after cable replacement?

Sorry for being a complete numpty, like I said mechanics aint my thing. Now computers...I can help you with them.

Any assistance appreciated.

Cheers

Hi Dingo

The kit is pretty good but the glue on nipples are a worry and one of mine gave up after a couple of weeks of just opening the door but thats probably me not being fastidious enough. Stop pressing the buttom till you have stripped the thing down as all the cable is now inside the drum and there is not enouhg room for both cables this messes the drum up.

Hi Boxer, thanks for the reply...But guess what, my father in law came round today while I was at work and fixed it. He is obviously much clever than me! (ex technology & electronics teacher)

He stripped out the old cable which had rusted and snapped in one place and was rusted in another ready to break there. He replaced it with some stainless steel cable which cost about £2 and it works perfectly. Ok it also cost me a bottle of whisky and box of hero's but nowhere near the exhorbitant charges a garage would charge.

Keep up the good work, this is a great forum. I must find a place to post my blown engine & Landrover story too

Dom

Yep new cables are the way to go and if anyone out there has one which hasnt broken yet then remove the rear window regulator take of the motor cover and remove the broken blue piece of plastic, this will prevent it from damaging the wires and/or jamming the window.