Axel oil leak on brake pads

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OllieGBR

New Member
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8
Location
Milton Keynes
My rear brake pads are covered in oil. I can see this leaking out of the Rear Hub assembly. There's a large rubber/ metal washer at the back, RTC-3310 that I'm assuming is supposed to keep all that lovely EP-90 inside the hub lubricating the bearings. It's obviously leaking, but I've replaced it last year so is the conclusion the 'stub axel' shaft is worn? (I'm assuming this is the shiny shaft the hub runs on, in the second picture below.)

Two questions;
Is there supposed to be EP-90 running around inside the rear hub? If not, what keeps that loveliness in?
If I have to replace the shiny shaft, is this part of the rear axel, or can it be separated?

Thanks!
Ollie


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just about to do my rear hubs, the shiny shaft is the halfshaft and they just pull out once the drive flange is undone
 
apparently corteco hub seals are the ones to buy, just ordered mine from dingocroft


and it has just dawned on me I didn't think to order fresh brake shoes :D
 
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Check the land the seal runs on very carefully, if there are any sharp edges these will trash the new seal, its sounds like that is what has happened. The Coritco ones are better, but no seals can survive a sharp edge. IF the land is replaceable then get a replacment, BUT, don't assume it is and wade in as you can trash the stub axle. As a stop gap you can polish the land with a strip of flour paper ( or very fine emery) and with a new seal this can work for a few years. I polished one of mine and fitted a Cortico seal and its been leak free for 4000 miles. There may be a worn groove, this is problem but not a show stopper.. If you polish the edges smooth then fit the new seal very slightly deeper (or less deep) the lip will run on the better surface beside the wear groove.
 
I did one of these on my front wheel a few months back.

Assuming that the land that the seal runs on is replaceable, I was told a useful trick for removing it on this forum.

The workshop manual suggested removing the stub axle and drilling and splitting the seal land.

The trick that I was told on here was to put a notch in the outer face of the land with a cold chisel. After a few good hits, the ring diameter will apread far enough so that it will simply pull off by hand. This worked a treat when I did it.

However, be absolutely sure that the ring is removable before trying this, as some later ones were not.
 
Check the land the seal runs on very carefully, if there are any sharp edges these will trash the new seal, its sounds like that is what has happened. The Coritco ones are better, but no seals can survive a sharp edge. IF the land is replaceable then get a replacment, BUT, don't assume it is and wade in as you can trash the stub axle. As a stop gap you can polish the land with a strip of flour paper ( or very fine emery) and with a new seal this can work for a few years. I polished one of mine and fitted a Cortico seal and its been leak free for 4000 miles. There may be a worn groove, this is problem but not a show stopper.. If you polish the edges smooth then fit the new seal very slightly deeper (or less deep) the lip will run on the better surface beside the wear groove.

Rob - how can you fit the seals in a different place? Where did you source your Cortico seals from, John Craddock and Paddocks don't appear to stock these?
 
I found the cortico from Dingocroft worked well. By "differnt place" I mean how far they are pressed in. they should be pressed to the shoulder but you could stop a tiny bit short if it means the lip miises the wear ridge. Make sure you fit them the right way round, so they easily go over the axle step.
 
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