retneprac
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Anyone got one?
Auxiliary external heater.
- Thread starter retneprac
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Any heater in particular?
retneprac
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Was wondering on a hose type to use to transfer the heater air from the unit up to a roof tent?
There’s a few out there but was looking for one that’s maybe 60mm dia as to not take up much space when not in use.
There’s a few out there but was looking for one that’s maybe 60mm dia as to not take up much space when not in use.
Could you not use one of the cheap Chinese diesel heaters?
Hicap phill
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+1 diesel heater. Get @Bobsticle to measure the inlet/outlet. My lorry has about 1 meter of tube connected as the heater is outside. Only problem I would see is if you use too much pipe it may not be run as it gets too hot & shuts down
Bobsticle
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If you wack it on full with a hole in the roof there’s only one place the heat can go 
it’s about 70 mm I think but you could put a splitter in it and make it two 35s.
it’s about 70 mm I think but you could put a splitter in it and make it two 35s.
Bobsticle
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Or a stand alone with 4 outlets.
retneprac
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I’ve got the heater, going to mount it inboard, split the outlet, one for inside the 110, one to heat the roof tent. Trying to find a port (that I can mount through the landy skin) with a cap/flap that I can plug a hose into, to run up to the tent. Something with a bayonet type connection maybe, not too chunky. It’ll work when the internal vents are closed, forcing air out the only open vent. Just struggling to find a port and hose set up.
retneprac
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Similar to Devon4x4 set up below but not hidden by a number plate flap.
Bobsticle
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The only issues I can see is there ain’t a lot of umph in the blower and it won’t know how hot you are upstairs for the thermostat.
Hicap phill
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Like a boil in the bag
Bobsticle
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I can’t see the advantage of all the ducting being on the outside and having to install it and stow it.
It would be simpler and less hassle to permanently duct on the inside and have a few inches of duct between the roof and wooden floor, possibly on the curl of the roofline so it’s towards the edge of the timber.
It would be simpler and less hassle to permanently duct on the inside and have a few inches of duct between the roof and wooden floor, possibly on the curl of the roofline so it’s towards the edge of the timber.
retneprac
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Easy, send her out to turn it off!
Think an option to have a secondary controller might be available. Could do a plug and play socket.
Bobsticle
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Pervert. What happens in the sleeping bag stays in the sleeping bagLike a boil in the bag
Hicap phill
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Using a bit of vacuum pipe & fittings
retneprac
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Heater mounted in a box in rear wheel arch, ducting, sleeved inside a SS flue liner to the face of the second row seat bulkhead via 2 directional closable vents. Want the air-port to go just behind the second row door in the triangular panel, via a T in the main duct. Return air to the heater via another vent in the inner wheel arch just inside the back door. Don’t think any defender is air tight enough for this to be an issue!
Combustion air in and out via mounting box, exhaust possibly pointing through the jack mount hole in the bumper, intake not sure yet, might take main exhaust gas if rear facing. So I think a 1.5m small dia hose should work, will bench test it first I think. Just the port and air duck to sort. Loads out there but all seem to connect via a jubilee clip on to a spigot which doesn’t really do it.
Combustion air in and out via mounting box, exhaust possibly pointing through the jack mount hole in the bumper, intake not sure yet, might take main exhaust gas if rear facing. So I think a 1.5m small dia hose should work, will bench test it first I think. Just the port and air duck to sort. Loads out there but all seem to connect via a jubilee clip on to a spigot which doesn’t really do it.
retneprac
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Anything in mind? I’ll google it.
retneprac
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This only needs to be a stat to work.
bankz5152
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You can get a better controller from an aussir bloke called Ray. Its called Afterburner and allows Bluetooth & wifi control with a two time 7 day timer. You can aslo add a GSM relay, so ring for heat.
The stat (on the china ones anyway) is pretty good even when hidden away. I keep stat in the cubby while the heater is under the rear seats. Keeps the temp within around 5c (according to an external thermometer).
Though if youre planning to run it over night it wouldnt be hard to have two controllers, one in the cab, one in the tent. Just switch between the one you want. Wiring is pretty basic and they are only about £7 just make sure you have two of the same and check the settings are the same as well.
As for the china heaters they are good for the money but do need a bit of tlc.
What kind of ducting do you plan to use? Ive been on the lookout for something durable, packable and would take the heat.
The stat (on the china ones anyway) is pretty good even when hidden away. I keep stat in the cubby while the heater is under the rear seats. Keeps the temp within around 5c (according to an external thermometer).
Though if youre planning to run it over night it wouldnt be hard to have two controllers, one in the cab, one in the tent. Just switch between the one you want. Wiring is pretty basic and they are only about £7 just make sure you have two of the same and check the settings are the same as well.
As for the china heaters they are good for the money but do need a bit of tlc.
What kind of ducting do you plan to use? Ive been on the lookout for something durable, packable and would take the heat.
Bobsticle
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Standard 50mm pvc pipe would be perfect with a slither of flexi between roof and tent floor. Loads of tank connectors etc for going through chit and it stops the air getting cold while being ductidid.
